Proper way to crimp solderless connectors with this tool?
#1
12-23-17, 04:22 PM
Proper way to crimp solderless connectors with this tool?
I had a cheap ratcheting crimper that broke but I think I found a better tool anyway.
I now have a Channellock 908 wiring tool. It is an older version without the Coax part.
I have not tried it yet but I think I just put the connector in the jaw of the tool and squeeze until the connector is tight?
What part of the jaw am I supposed to use? and what is the "Insulation Only" and the "7-8MM Auto" part for?
Thanks
PS:
I am using the insulated connectors
I mostly use the Red connectors (22-18 AWG) and the Blue connectors (16-14 AWG)
I now have a Channellock 908 wiring tool. It is an older version without the Coax part.
I have not tried it yet but I think I just put the connector in the jaw of the tool and squeeze until the connector is tight?
What part of the jaw am I supposed to use? and what is the "Insulation Only" and the "7-8MM Auto" part for?
Thanks
PS:
I am using the insulated connectors
I mostly use the Red connectors (22-18 AWG) and the Blue connectors (16-14 AWG)
#2
12-23-17, 04:29 PM
Group Moderator
You'd use the insulated/non-insulated jaw.
Those crimpers are..... ok.
I use a ratcheting crimp tool and the Klein 1005. Nice long handles. Very strong.
Those crimpers are..... ok.
I use a ratcheting crimp tool and the Klein 1005. Nice long handles. Very strong.
#3
12-23-17, 04:53 PM
Member
You use the end to crimp the wire into the metal sleeve.
I was taught to also crimp the plastic insulator section in addition. But I know many do not.
Notice that yours is labeled insulation and non insulation.
I was taught to also crimp the plastic insulator section in addition. But I know many do not.
Notice that yours is labeled insulation and non insulation.
#5
12-23-17, 08:11 PM
The 7-8 MM Auto position is for automotive spark plug wire terminals.
Honestly, if you are doing any amount of terminal crimping you really need to get a ratcheting tool. You can get a fairly decent one with interchangeable die heads for less than $30 on Ebay. If you do lot of crimping then you will want an American made tool and they cost significantly more. I have several ratcheting tools and I wouldn't be without them.
Honestly, if you are doing any amount of terminal crimping you really need to get a ratcheting tool. You can get a fairly decent one with interchangeable die heads for less than $30 on Ebay. If you do lot of crimping then you will want an American made tool and they cost significantly more. I have several ratcheting tools and I wouldn't be without them.
#6
12-23-17, 08:26 PM
Here is the one I was using
I still have it but now it will not crimp the connectors tight enough, There is a screw that rests against the piece that controls the tightness of the crimp but I am afraid to tighten it as it is a soft metal and I don't want to shear the head off.
If I could find another screw that is a harder metal I would use that tool again.
I agree ratcheting tools are the way to go
I would say I don't use the tool alot but when I do I often crimp a whole bunch at a time and then not use the tool for months at a time and then repeat the sequence
I still have it but now it will not crimp the connectors tight enough, There is a screw that rests against the piece that controls the tightness of the crimp but I am afraid to tighten it as it is a soft metal and I don't want to shear the head off.
If I could find another screw that is a harder metal I would use that tool again.
I agree ratcheting tools are the way to go
I would say I don't use the tool alot but when I do I often crimp a whole bunch at a time and then not use the tool for months at a time and then repeat the sequence
#7
12-23-17, 08:52 PM
This is my favorite. https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...7486-ND/297745
No, I didn't pay that much for it. I got it at the company surplus store for about five bucks. I guess it could no longer pass the QC certification. Still works better than any other crimper I have owned. I also have a Sargent and a Paladin or Amphenol or something that is a good tool. Both of them were north of $50 as I recall.
The one I got from Ebay was to be able to crimp the itty-bitty pins for Molex connectors but it included four or five different heads. It works well for regular insulated terminals. I think I paid about $25-28 for that one.
No, I didn't pay that much for it. I got it at the company surplus store for about five bucks. I guess it could no longer pass the QC certification. Still works better than any other crimper I have owned. I also have a Sargent and a Paladin or Amphenol or something that is a good tool. Both of them were north of $50 as I recall.
The one I got from Ebay was to be able to crimp the itty-bitty pins for Molex connectors but it included four or five different heads. It works well for regular insulated terminals. I think I paid about $25-28 for that one.
#10
12-24-17, 10:05 PM
Originally Posted by CircuitBreaker
Here is the one I was using
I still have it but now it will not crimp the connectors tight enough, There is a screw that rests against the piece that controls the tightness of the crimp but I am afraid to tighten it as it is a soft metal and I don't want to shear the head off.
If I could find another screw that is a harder metal I would use that tool again.
I agree ratcheting tools are the way to go
I would say I don't use the tool alot but when I do I often crimp a whole bunch at a time and then not use the tool for months at a time and then repeat the sequence
I still have it but now it will not crimp the connectors tight enough, There is a screw that rests against the piece that controls the tightness of the crimp but I am afraid to tighten it as it is a soft metal and I don't want to shear the head off.
If I could find another screw that is a harder metal I would use that tool again.
I agree ratcheting tools are the way to go
I would say I don't use the tool alot but when I do I often crimp a whole bunch at a time and then not use the tool for months at a time and then repeat the sequence
I also work on computers so I checked my screw box and I found one that fit and that screw is an M3 screw (Metric No surprise there)
I believe those screws are zinc plated steel anyway that tool is back into action
