easy puzzle revisited.

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Old 05-20-18, 05:51 PM
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easy puzzle revisited.

In reference to this posting: https://www.doityourself.com/forum/e...rum-solve.html

Sorry guys, you are ALL wrong. The 660 watts restriction has to do with incandescent light bulbs. The allowable amperage for the lamp AND the two receptacles is 15. That means a 660 watt lamp PLUS 9.5 amperes IF a non-continuous load.

I have NEVER seen an incandescent bulb larger than 300 watts that had an Edison base. I have seen such adapters used with a 300 watt incandescent bulb and two plug-and-cord connected twin 75 watt fluorescent fixtures for years with no adverse effects. Used properly they are NOT a hazard.
 
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Old 05-20-18, 06:07 PM
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Oh heck...my 2cents. I've had some of the newer ones that BRAND new would arc and flicker. It's because of the way the cheap ones are constructed. There's just a tiny point of contact internally, that if you screw a bulb in a bit too tight will separate the halves and make a crappy connection. Not exactly what I desire in a light socket in a garage. They can be slightly modified so that they work fine, but I'm of the opinion they should be avoided for the most part. Besides...who's going to get a ladder to plug or unplug them every time it's needed? Add an outlet or 2 if you need a place to plug in.

I too, have seen older ones that were in use for years much as Furd describes. I think I may have even done it temporarily (that's 5 yrs or less, right?) in my first homes garage. Hey, what did I know?
 
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Old 05-20-18, 06:42 PM
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I agree with Vic, many of the things today ARE junk when compared to the same item made a few decades ago. The particular adapter I mentioned WAS some thirty years ago.

I also agree that installing a readily accessible receptacle is the proper way to go, even if it is connected to the same circuit. Using Wiremold is easy.
 
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Old 05-21-18, 09:24 AM
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To Latest Craze,
Your responses sometimes seem to indicate you are frustrated by the responses because they don’t fit what you are expecting. Remember you asked for help. Those responding can have a range of education and experience so expect anything from A to Z.
To start with, I would return the adapter and purchase one with a UL (Underwriter Laboratory) rating. The UL number can be used to purchase from UL a copy of the testing of the adapter (sample) and the parameters used to verify the electrical rating.
Public utility power in the US is regulated and for most homes is single phase 240 VAC rms (root- mean- square), with split phase 120 VAC rms. Public utility power in NYC is no different. Your adapter is only one link in the chain of electrical devices making up the electrical circuit and the chain is only as strong as the weakest link. Assuming all electrical devices leading to you overhead lamp socket are rated for 120 VAC rms, the maximum current a UL rated 600 watt adapter screwed into the lamp socket can safely conduct is 5A rms into a resistive load at 120 VAC rms (5x120=600). If it also has a maximum UL current rating of 15 A rms and all electrical devices leading to you overhead lamp socket are rated for 15 A rms, the maximum safe voltage applied to the 15A rms resistive load should not exceed 40 VAC rms (15x40=600). This could be accomplished by a 120 VAC reducing power supply between the overhead lamp socket and the feeding circuit breaker/fuse. Doable but not very practical. Impedance loads are a different calculation due to phase shifts between voltage and currents.
 
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