Extra 240V socket in parallel?
#1
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Extra 240V socket in parallel?
Hi
We had a leak at home which destroyed our floors and kitchen. We are now trying to lay out a new kitchen.
Previously we had a range with an electric oven and a gas cooktop. The oven was fed from a 240V socket. I believe the breaker is a 40A
For the refit we want a built-in double electric oven, roughly where the range was.
But we want an induction cooktop on the other side of the (small) kitchen). We had induction back in the UK and it was awesome.
The kitchen planner has overlooked the fact there is no 240V socket on that side. The hobs can pull 8kW, so we're talking over 30A max for that appliance.
Providing the breaker and cables can take the current of both cooktop AND oven, can we channel the concrete and lay conduit under the kitchen floor to add the cooktop socket in parallel with the oven? The concrete is not pre-stressed etc, just regular slab pour.
Thanks
We had a leak at home which destroyed our floors and kitchen. We are now trying to lay out a new kitchen.
Previously we had a range with an electric oven and a gas cooktop. The oven was fed from a 240V socket. I believe the breaker is a 40A
For the refit we want a built-in double electric oven, roughly where the range was.
But we want an induction cooktop on the other side of the (small) kitchen). We had induction back in the UK and it was awesome.
The kitchen planner has overlooked the fact there is no 240V socket on that side. The hobs can pull 8kW, so we're talking over 30A max for that appliance.
Providing the breaker and cables can take the current of both cooktop AND oven, can we channel the concrete and lay conduit under the kitchen floor to add the cooktop socket in parallel with the oven? The concrete is not pre-stressed etc, just regular slab pour.
Thanks
#2
Your current circuit of 40A cannot run both so you need to start the planning process for adding a new circuit. I'm guessing you're on a slab. Where's the electric panel ?
#4
Each unit (stove, oven, etc.) must have its own (240 volt) branch circuit.
The appliance's plug implies the maximum branch circuit amperage if the instructions or name plate does not already state that amperage.
The matching receptacle must be on a branch circuit with a matching or compatible amperage rating; for most ratings above 20 amps there is only one amperage rating allowed for each kind of receptacle. (I don't have the table of the NEC giving these ratings handy now but I do know that small items and appliances drawing less than 15 amps can and must be safely usable on 20 amp circuits.)
Most appliances (and tools) requiring more than 20 amps will draw more than half of the circuit rating.
So in most cases it is impossible for one branch circuit to serve more than one of these appiainces.
The appliance's plug implies the maximum branch circuit amperage if the instructions or name plate does not already state that amperage.
The matching receptacle must be on a branch circuit with a matching or compatible amperage rating; for most ratings above 20 amps there is only one amperage rating allowed for each kind of receptacle. (I don't have the table of the NEC giving these ratings handy now but I do know that small items and appliances drawing less than 15 amps can and must be safely usable on 20 amp circuits.)
Most appliances (and tools) requiring more than 20 amps will draw more than half of the circuit rating.
So in most cases it is impossible for one branch circuit to serve more than one of these appiainces.
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Actually I rechecked the fuse panel and its 80A (40A per phase).
The slab is the basic deal I believe.
The fuse panel is the opposite side of the house. Maybe 40 feet away.
The fuse panel itself is only 2 years old as it was fitted when we had solar.
Hob is a cooktop. It's a British thing.
The slab is the basic deal I believe.
The fuse panel is the opposite side of the house. Maybe 40 feet away.
The fuse panel itself is only 2 years old as it was fitted when we had solar.
Hob is a cooktop. It's a British thing.
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Thanks for clarifying.
So the next question is... can a cable be run in metal conduit all around the outside of the house?
Otherwise we'd have to remove ceilings etc.
Alternatively we have to ditch the induction hob and get the gas line extended under the slab to a new place. Which sounds easy. In my head :-)
So the next question is... can a cable be run in metal conduit all around the outside of the house?
Otherwise we'd have to remove ceilings etc.
Alternatively we have to ditch the induction hob and get the gas line extended under the slab to a new place. Which sounds easy. In my head :-)
#8
can a cable be run in metal conduit all around the outside of the house?
As PCBoss says you can only use some cables such as. UF-b. However easier to pull would be individual conductors such as THWN. UF-b would be a bear to pull.
Last edited by ray2047; 07-09-18 at 08:02 PM.
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Thanks again guys.
So I'm looking to run 4wires of THHN 8 gauge in conduit around the outside of the house.
Can I use PVC SCH40 pipe? Or does it have to be metal?
So I'm looking to run 4wires of THHN 8 gauge in conduit around the outside of the house.
Can I use PVC SCH40 pipe? Or does it have to be metal?
#12
The fuse panel is the opposite side of the house. Maybe 40 feet away.
The fuse panel itself is only 2 years old as it was fitted when we had solar.
The fuse panel itself is only 2 years old as it was fitted when we had solar.
I hope you meant the circuit breaker panel and not fuse panel. I haven't even seen a new fuse panel in close to 40 years.