Project: making a color change LED DBZ lamp

Ok, this might be a bit of a read but I am laying out my know hows and my don't know hows as best i can.

So I am making myself a couple of DBZ Goku Spirit Bomb Lamps.

I have limited experience in making stuff like this, I have done only 2 electrical projects. A bottle lamp with a store bought cord/cork and simple instructions and a music activated LED Light I made for a friend.

The bottle lamp was like putting legos together, I followed the instructions and had a lamp.

The light for my friend was a bit more involved but still for the most part easy to assemble. It consisted of a store bought shadow box, a white piece of plexiglass to replace the shadow box glass, 12v 4pin RGB LED light strips, a 12v 2 amp DC plug, 2.1 x 5.5mm DC Power Pigtail Female Cable, the music activated 12v 5amp control box for the LEDs and some other stuff to intensify the light refractions and keep the LEDs cool.

Now the problem is, when I did the LED light for my friend, I knew how much energy/amps and all that other stuff the control box could take and got a power supply and parts rated for that. Also, since the control box had all the capacitors/resistors and all the other electrical stuff built in, my electrical know-how wasn't needed to be pro. It did the hard stuff so i didn't have to.

So I am a little worried about this project since I won't be using a control box to do whatever has to be done between the power and the light.

So here are the parts I have and don't need to order

2 Color Change LED Bulbs (not strips but I do have some left over), 2 White Glass Globes, 2 3 1/4 fitter to hold the globes and sockets together, Microphone Goosenecks for the neck of the lamps (like a flexible desk lamp has) Wood bases for the base of the lamp, Left over 2.1 x 5.5mm DC Power Pigtail Female Cables and a left over 12v 2amp DC plug (will need a second one)

so I come here to ask what i might need to make this work. The plan is basically to drill the wood base to house the 2.1 x 5.5mm DC Power Pigtail Female Cable out the back, feed it to a switch (i have yet to buy) on the base, and feed the wires (need to buy wires) through the gooseneck and connect to the screw terminals of the bulb holder.

I want to power the bulb with a 12v 2amp DC plug, but I don't know if this set up is safe as is or if I need to up something (might not be enough power), lower something or get something to control the electricity.

When it comes to electricity, I just know to connect the live wire to the gold screw so i don't get shocked changing the bulb. I probably could just find another more reliable lamp cord, but i wanted a inline switch setup and I don't feel very confident cutting a lamp cord just to install a inline switch. I mean the kids at the factory that made the lamp cords i bought didn't even get it right, so I doubt I will.

If I don't need anything fancy, I just have to order the 18AWG wire, the switches and another 12v 2amp DC Plug.

 

Welcome to the forums.

I'm an "old" time tech so I had to look and see what you were making. I left a link for a video to give others an idea. The videos following this one show different assembly methods.
you tube/watch?v=OBfCVIaIkeo


So I'm not sure what your question is.
You need to add up the current draw of your parts to see if 2A @12vdc is enough to run it.
12vdc is very safe to run your project on.
If you have some type of link to a kit.... give that to us.

 

For all Electrical purposes, here are the components for my assembly.

bulbs: http://a.co/fDZrg1E

Memory function: YES
Sync function ：YES
Wattage: 10W
Input voltage: 85-265V Universal
Color temperature ： 5700K
Brightness: 900 LM (Daylight)
CRI: >80
Light color: RGB multi color
Beam angle: 270 degree

bulb holders; http://a.co/4AGW0LP

E26/E27 Bulb type
max wattage 250

Wires: http://a.co/2acOQ9M

Pigtails: http://a.co/dKzco4q

12v DC power supply: http://a.co/8e7QVRz

• With Anti interference function and circuit protection function: short circuit, over current, over voltage, overload
• With on off inline switch ;easy to use
• 12v DC power supply (Converts from 110 VAC wall outlet into a 12 Volt DC plug)
• Power: 24W Mainly designed for 12V DC LED lighting products and small home appliance that draw any amount of power up to 24 watts, such as 12v led strip light, DC CCTV Cameras, IR cameras, massager, etc
• Size: L:75mm/2.95 inch; W:50mm/1.97 inch; H:32mm/1.6 inch; Diameter of connector: interior 2.1mm; exterior: 5.5mm

It looks like I'm ok on wattage but the voltage looks like it might be an issue?

I also am not sure if the lightbulbs can even take DC power. If they can't, I will have to go back to the traditional lamp cord, and since the bulb holders i have are keyless, I won't have a physical switch involved unless I can find a good reliable cord with a rocker style switch or trust my electrical skills enough to splice a cord with one

I've already had setbacks with lamp cords since the ones i ordered on amazon were cheap chinese crap that even with my limited knowledge, once I had them I could tell were too dangerous and not up to code. http://a.co/4UHVVdX my review pretty much sums up what is wrong with these cords. If there is copper wire filament sticking out, its not a safe product.

The biggest feature I am going for with these lamps is that they have a inline switch either on the cord or on the base, and the switch has to be a rocker or push button. I want these lamps to look as close as possible to something you could actually buy in a store. I know I can find dozens of thumbwheel switch cords, but I hate those due to their displeasing textile interface, the failure ratio (every lamp I had with one failed at the thumbwheel.) and because I don't want to have to replace the cord every 2 years because of the switch failing.

If I can use the DC set up, I can buy the power supplies with built in inline switches that are what I am looking for and I don't have to worry nearly as much about which wire is the hot wire since I know the black wire is.

 

Assess what you are doing. The bulbs you linked to are 120v bulbs so a 12v supply will not be helpful.
So I'm not sure why there is a 12v power supply in this discussion.

You linked to standard A bulb sockets and 120v bulbs so that you need a 120v power cord and switch.

lightbulbs/product/westinghouse-23303
home depot/Westinghouse-6-ft-Cord-Set-with-Candelabra-Base-Socket-and-Cord-Switch

 

I linked to the power supply because I have experience and the parts to do a build with that. so i guess I'll have to find some lamp cords for the project and prey I can find ones that have quality and the inline rocker switch i want.

 

You could can the sockets and bulbs and go with something in LED. Then you could run it on 12v.