Transitioning wire home runs to addition
#1
11-30-18, 01:56 PM
Transitioning wire home runs to addition
I have built a 24'x24' addition and need to run 5, maybe 6 homeruns for new circuits from existing panel/house over to my addition on the other side of home. I have my access to crawl space under new addition in my existing houses basement wall. Can I run my new homeruns through the access window into crawl space? Do they need to be protected by some kind of conduit or anything if run through access door. I plan to run them through existing house floor trusses over to where the access door is where the wire will drop down and then travel through opening into crawl space. Any help is appreciated!! Wiring will be inspected by local Township inspector for acceptance.
#2
11-30-18, 02:26 PM
I'm reading the situation as that your existing basement window now opens into the crawlspace of the addition instead of outdoors. You would like to route some wiring through the window from the existing basement into the new crawlspace?
Yes I think you could do this, but I would use conduit for the portion of the run that drops below the normal ceiling height in the basement. An alternative approach would be to frame out a chase with a couple 2x4s.
Yes I think you could do this, but I would use conduit for the portion of the run that drops below the normal ceiling height in the basement. An alternative approach would be to frame out a chase with a couple 2x4s.
#3
11-30-18, 02:33 PM
Is drilling holes through the basement band board adjacent to the crawlspace not an option? If you decide to finish the basement off, I wouldn't think you'd want home runs running through the access door, regardless if they are protected.
#5
11-30-18, 03:26 PM
How about running one feed to a subpanel in the addition?
Is drilling holes through the basement band board adjacent to the crawlspace not an option?
I'm reading the situation as that your existing basement window now opens into the crawlspace of the addition instead of outdoors. You would like to route some wiring through the window from the existing basement into the new crawlspace?
Also, my panel will be maxed out if I do not put in a sub panel for the addition making future electrical needs difficult.
#7
11-30-18, 08:35 PM
Put in a subpanel. There is no "better" to run all homerun circuits. In your case it sounds like a subpanel is best.
What size panel box should I go with? I need 5-7 circuits for addition alone. and maybe leave a few for future projects possibly.
#8
11-30-18, 10:40 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Choose a panel with room for expansion. Do not count the spaces where a tandem is needed like a 6/12 panel. This only allows 6 full size single poles, but would allow 12 if tandems are used. AFCI protection which is needed for most new circuits does not come in a tandem.
#9
12-01-18, 05:57 AM
My vote would be for a sub panel also.
Before we can answer this question for you maybe if you give us an idea of what you will be powering from the sub panel for the new addition.
The only reason maybe someone said that was because they were advising that running new lines (home-runs) directly from the panel would be beneficial over tapping into existing circuits and extending them to the new addition.
What size panel box should I go with? I need 5-7 circuits for addition alone. and maybe leave a few for future projects possibly.
This was what I thought was best during original planning but was told that its not the most preferred method that home-runs are the better way of doing it. Not really sure why.
#10
12-01-18, 08:08 AM
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I advise to use a main breaker panel instead of a main lug panel. Even though a main breaker is not required it is nice to have for convenience. There are also value packs in the main breaker panels where you get some breakers with them. Even though you may not need a 100A panel, that size panel is very common and usually the best value. You can feed the 100A subpanel with a 100A or less breaker. Shooting from the hip, running #2-2-2-4 Al SER from panel to panel as long as it's not buried within insulation will give you up to 90A. I know that #2 Al will fit in down to a 60A breaker, maybe a 50A in some brands. The SER is installed just as NM-b(Romex). One thing is to be sure the new added loads plus the existing loads are not going to overload your existing main panel.
#11
12-01-18, 08:52 AM
Before we can answer this question for you maybe if you give us an idea of what you will be powering from the sub panel for the new addition.
Circuit 2 for two bedrooms receptacles and outside receptacles. (Total of 15 duplex)
Circuit 3 is for Bathroom GFCI by sink. (Total of 2 duplex)
Circuit 4 is for Pump/motor of Jetted tub.
Circuit 5 is for lighting throughout addition and smoke alarms. (16 12w recessed LED, Vanity light with 3 bulbs, 2 fan/light combos, 1 closet light, 1 bath fan/light, 1 patio light, 1 crawl space entrance light in basement, 1 attic entrance light. 4 hardwired smoke alarms.
Circuit 6 is for in line heater for jetted tub if we decide to go that route (Havn't purchased heater yet but we are considering it at this time).
#12
12-01-18, 09:05 AM
Here's a couple panel boxes I found. 24 spaces would be more then needed. Even 12 would be plenty. Should use about half of a 12-space panel box for addition.
https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schnei...e+D+main+panel
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D...25GC/100197334
Is this the wiring I need for installing sub panel? I have 2 uncles that are going to help with sub panel installation as they do electrical work on the side in the past.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwir...2999/205001908
https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schnei...e+D+main+panel
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D...25GC/100197334
Is this the wiring I need for installing sub panel? I have 2 uncles that are going to help with sub panel installation as they do electrical work on the side in the past.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwir...2999/205001908
#14
12-01-18, 09:48 AM
How are you planning on heating and cooling the addition?
#15
12-01-18, 08:31 PM
Don't use aluminum wire:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwir...2999/205001908
Especially for DIYers copper is much safer and more reliable.
Use copper, 3 wire plus ground of a size that allows for future loads.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwir...2999/205001908
Especially for DIYers copper is much safer and more reliable.
Use copper, 3 wire plus ground of a size that allows for future loads.
#16
12-01-18, 08:54 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Aluminum conductors in a feeder cable are fine to use, even for a diy. They will also save money over the cost.of copper.
The smokes should tie into the existing circuit for the smokes.
The smokes should tie into the existing circuit for the smokes.
#17
12-02-18, 09:37 AM
Member
If they cannot handle addition SF, mini splits are an option as well as upgrading my existing system.
Unless your existing furnace and A-C are oversized you may be faced with substantial additional cost to upgrade them that is, IF you can extend ductwork. Mini splits may be the best option which is another great reason to install a subpanel.
#18
12-02-18, 09:59 AM
Unless your existing furnace and A-C are oversized you may be faced with substantial additional cost to upgrade them that is, IF you can extend ductwork. Mini splits may be the best option which is another great reason to install a subpanel.
#19
12-02-18, 09:18 PM
If existing AC or propane systems are inadequate, mini split will make up the deficiency in either heating or cooling. If addition has several rooms get split with multiple room wall units.
