No electric to dryer
#1
01-03-19, 04:31 PM
No electric to dryer
My wife turned on the dryer last night, but at sometime it lost power. This morning I checked the receptacle and found no power coming to it. I took the panel cover off the breaker panel and found power leaving the breaker. Does this mean I have a break in my wiring between the panel and the receptacle? I am not an electrician but I am not afraid to work on it. Note, my electrical panel is a Federal Pacific and I have been told to replace it because it is a fire hazard. I'm sure I won't be able to find any new breakers for this box. Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.
#2
01-03-19, 04:36 PM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums.
How did you check it ?
You need to verify 240vAC where the wires connect to the breaker with a meter or two wire voltage tester. A non contact tester can't be used for this test.
I took the panel cover off the breaker panel and found power leaving the breaker.
You need to verify 240vAC where the wires connect to the breaker with a meter or two wire voltage tester. A non contact tester can't be used for this test.
#3
01-03-19, 04:43 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
The circuit for the dryer should be dedicated. Unless the wire was chewed by an animal there should only be the two ends to check for issues.
#4
01-03-19, 05:14 PM
Member
Note, my electrical panel is a Federal Pacific and I have been told to replace it because it is a fire hazard. I'm sure I won't be able to find any new breakers for this box.
Here's one, but the breaker may not be your problem.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Connecti...230N/303141439
#5
01-03-19, 05:47 PM
Did you test it with non-contact tester or did you test with neon lamp or multimeter?
Non-contact tester may give you false positive when you test it close to the breaker or other wires.
If you get 240V between 2 poles of the breaker, then the breaker is not the problem.
Check terminal of the breaker. Sometimes the wire comes loose (usually from incorrect torquing) and when this happens to high current devices wire and terminal may overheat and get damaged.
Check voltage at the receptacle as well. You should get 240V between 2 live lines and 120V between one of the live lines and neutral.
If you don't get correct measurement, pull the cover off the receptacle and check inside as well.
Check if have any splices. Sometimes this is done from remodel or because the wire was too short from initial run. It may be in the attic.
There may be hidden splices in the wall or ceiling as well. That is not allowed, but unfortunately still done all the time.
Non-contact tester may give you false positive when you test it close to the breaker or other wires.
If you get 240V between 2 poles of the breaker, then the breaker is not the problem.
Check terminal of the breaker. Sometimes the wire comes loose (usually from incorrect torquing) and when this happens to high current devices wire and terminal may overheat and get damaged.
Check voltage at the receptacle as well. You should get 240V between 2 live lines and 120V between one of the live lines and neutral.
If you don't get correct measurement, pull the cover off the receptacle and check inside as well.
Check if have any splices. Sometimes this is done from remodel or because the wire was too short from initial run. It may be in the attic.
There may be hidden splices in the wall or ceiling as well. That is not allowed, but unfortunately still done all the time.
#6
01-04-19, 04:22 AM
Sorry, please just confirm:
You state your dryer has no power.
Note: A dryer can be gas along with electric to run tumbler and controls etc using only 120v
OR
Your dryer can be 120/240 volt electric dryer.
Which type are you working with?
You state your dryer has no power.
Note: A dryer can be gas along with electric to run tumbler and controls etc using only 120v
OR
Your dryer can be 120/240 volt electric dryer.
Which type are you working with?
