adding outdoor washer and dryer

I've read over the codes https://www.nfpa.org/NEC/About-the-N...58&access=open

But still have some questions.

I plan on adding one 20A 115vac breaker and one 30A 230vac breaker. Then running the wires in two conduits thru the block wall from inside garage to the outside. then securing to wet rated surface mount boxes, one each for the 115vac and the 230vac electrical socket receptacles.

The boxes and enclosed covers will be wet outdoor rated.

The receptacles will be GFCI.

I believe the codes said I needed a cutoff outside the house. Why?

When I read the codes a few years ago, I though I read mention of 4 prong required for the 230vac and I think there was also instructions on how to hook up a 4 conductor cord to the older 3 terminal dryers, but i cant find that now.

Any advice will be appreciated.

paul

 

Nominal voltages are120v and 240v. No GFCI required on the 120/240 dryer receptacle but a GFCI breaker would be a good idea. Yes, 4-wire for dryer. Receptacle and plug is a disconnect means. GFCI required for washer.

 

If you are installing a dryer outside..... put it on a four wire circuit.
It is very easy to convert three wire dryer wiring to four wires.

 

If it's easier, you could run one 3/4" conduit with the (3) 10ga wires and (2) 12ga wires and one 10ga ground. The conduit can go into the first box, then use a nipple or conduit to go to the second.

Of course, two separate conduits are fine too.

 

Unless the appliance is under cover, I don.t think they will last long before the elements win out. Why don't you just put longer power cords on the appliance and put the outlets inside the garage?

 

The age of the dryer has no bearing on whether there is a 3 terminal strip, all dryers have three screw terminals. The 4th wire is a ground and goes to the green ground screw usually to the left of the 3 terminal screws. A 4-wire circuit with 4-prong receptacle and matching cord is required for a dryer's 120/240 volt circuit and the same is true for electric ranges.

 

If you use a single 20 amp outlet for the washer it does not need to be ground faulted. If you mount the outlets either above or to the side you can satisfy the disconnect issue by unplugging the cord. Not that easy for the dryer but doable. If your doing this in cold country remember the water lines can freeze. Insulation may be enough depending on your location

 

Maybe not by your local AHJ, but by the NEC it most certainly needs to be GFCI protected.

 

The Code requires the receptacles to be located in the area of the equipment. Also the cord cannot extend through walls etc.

 

is that to code?

What about pulling the 115 off of one side of the 230, like my stove does?

 

where is the quote?

Why did I get email notice for the 1st two replies, but no more?

This forum requires that you wait 180 seconds between posts. Please try again in 51 seconds.

 

"one 3/4" conduit with the (3) 10ga wires and (2) 12ga wires and one 10ga ground. The conduit can go into the first box, then use a nipple or conduit to go to the second."

is that to NEC code?

What about pulling the 115 off of one side of the 230, like my stove does? (yes I know Ill need a larger breaker)

 

Yes multiple voltages in one conduit, no to using one side of the 240 because the washer needs its own breaker and that can't exceed 20 amps for a 120v receptacle.

 

No it is not. Each require a dedicated circuit. You also cannot have regular receptacle on circuits greater than 20 amps.

 

anything else I need to know?

 

concerning the 4th gnd wire.

Some say: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tdrvbMTctg

several sites agree with above, but others instruct differently, as shown here: https://www.thespruce.com/change-dry...g-to-4-1152248

which is correct?

tks,
paul

 

the U tube is WRONG. The previous codes for dryers and ranges was 2 hots and a ground. Then with the advent of electronics and 120v timers the NEC updated and required the neutral (grounded conductor).
As the text in the Spruce link shows the neutral is isolated/insulated at the dryer, not attached to bare metal. Just like the hot wires. That is because you do not want any other ground/neutral connections except at the main electrical service where the neutral is established.

You mention that you have an situation at your range where you have 120v being created as part of the 240v circuit for the range. This is WRONG. The overcurrent device is set to protect the wiring feeding the range not the
#12 wire for the receptacle which is usually 15 amp. tapping off for any 120v loads is not not safe. This was explained at the dryer but not at the range when I reread the posts.

 

So 2nd video is the way to go? Since then I've even found other ways 3 and 4 different ways shown. One vid explained two different ways and said that I need to find out from the original maker of the dryer.

240 Stoves ovens used to b made that way with the 120 plug up front. Back in the good old wild west days.

 

I didn't watch the video, but I jumped through it and every time the video stopped there was something wrong in the frame; so I would say do not follow whatever he said.

The Spruce link looks OK for the cord swap procedure. The biggest difference between manufacturers is that some you will have to remove a bonding wire between the case and neutral, and some you will need to remove a metal strap.

 

The You Tube video is definitely wrong! At the end of the video the guy was even showing a 50 amp rated receptacle and plug as a dryer receptacle and plug. As far back as I can remember dryers always required 2 hot conductors and 1 neutral conductor and the grounding was done through the neutral conductor. The third conductor had to be a neutral and not a ground because the electric motor and controls all operated at 120 volts and not at 240. The 1996 NEC changed all that and required a 4th ground wire on all electric range and dryer circuits and that the neutral be kept isolated from ground. But, I still recently have seen a few new homes built in areas with little regulation where 10-2 NM-B cable is used for a dryer circuit.