Trouble shooting stove burner.

I had to replace an element on my stove top. I fully expected that burner to heat up when I turned on the switch. It did not. I traded that element with the other one of the same size and it works. The old one that I know works also does not heat at in the place where I first tried the new one. So I know my element works. How do I figure out if the problem is in the control switch or something else? And if not the control what is the next most likely thing that could be wrong? And how do I diagnose with only the most basic of testers? I have a vh meter. I think that is what it is called. It will test AC or DC voltage and continutity.

 

Once removed from the stove, use the meter to check any heating element for continuity. A good element will have continuity , around 5-15 ohms and a bad element will have no continuity, 0 or infinite ohms. My guess is the element switch is bad. Set your meter to read greater than 240 vac. With the switch turned to HIGH, place meter leads on the 2 wires going to the non operating element socket. If the meter indicates 0 vac, the switch needs replacement. If the meter indicates 240 vac, the switch is good. Now place meter leads into the non operating element socket. If the meter indicates 0 vac, the wiring between switch and element socket needs replacement. If the meter indicates 240 vac, the socket need replacement.

 

When using yout Volt-Ohm Meter on the stove, keep in mind that you're dealing with 240 vols.

If the element is good, the next most likely culprit is the control (switch) for that eye. It is possible that the control has no power, I haven't seen that.

Take the brand and model number of your stove to an appliance parts store to get a new control. They will also have the high-temperatue splices needed.

 

Look for the fuses. Most stoves a bank of fuses somewhere, usually in the upper control panel.

 

No continuity or infinite ohms is correct. 0 is a dead short.

You don't have an element problem so you won't be using the ohms scale.
There are rarely any protective devices in an electric range for the top elements.
If it's not a bad socket the next likely problem would be the control.
Some use a basic on-off control while others use a type of cycling system.

You could check carefully at the socket pins for 240v.
Be advised... you could find 240v there and the element still not work.

You'd need to post the model number and which location it is for detailed help.

 

Thanks for the advice. The element was damaged, one of the terminals was broken. I figured that was the problem. Testing confirmed the switch is bad. One is on order. While I am at it I will replace the terminal block. It looks like it is damaged compared to the other three. Maybe there was arcing.

 

I carry porcelain element sockets with stainless crimps and ceramic wirenuts.
I typically replace the socket when I change an element.

 

Everything is back in order. New burner which did not solve the problem. New switch and new socket.
My local appliance parts store got it to me quickly.
I post this because a lot of the people I advise elsewhere here do not tell us the end of the story. I want to know. Maybe you do too.