150 Ft # Torque Wrench

I need to buy a new torque wrench for changing Chrysler Brand rims (120 Ft # specification. Do you folks have a brand preference to help me do this rim and tire switch twice a year? My old one does not have the click feature, which seems like it might be better for this job.

 

I saw a comparison test on youtube a while back and the Harbor Freight model tested very well against Snap On. For a couple times a year use, I'd be at Harbor Freight.

 

My torque wrench expertise is admittedly dated but unless they have been improved in the last few years I would stay away from the "click" type torque wrench. They are less accurate than deflecting beam type wrenches. Click type wrenches rely on a spring compression. Unless the spring compression is released after every use, the spring will take a set and introduce inaccuracy.

In the 1980's the Navy threw away thousands of click type torque wrenches because they were unreliable. After researching the problem they determined that relieving the spring compression after use and exercising the wrench before use at the desired torque restored the accuracy.

 

probably do harbor freight or another cheap brand would also likely spend a little more for the longer handle higher torque rating.
as long as you roll it back to zero when your done suspect it will last a long time there is places that do calibrate torque wrenches if its a critical application but for changing wheels I'm sure many shops are still using the torque sticks and impact hammers.

 

I agree that, even if a clickable is not 100% accurate, tightening wheel nuts is like hand grenades... close is good enough. A pound or two or three either way is not going to affect hardly anything in general mechanics. Just my humble opinion.

I don't want to overstep anyone's preference. If you want it exact, that's fine. I don't have a problem with that. Just buy something more accurate. I think everyone has little things they are particular about.

 

I supervised a Navy calibration lab in the early 80's. We rejected more than half of the click type torque wrenches as grossly inaccurate. Many had measurable errors many times calibration tolerances. These wrenches were typically used on aircraft components so as the failure data was accumulated it got a lot of attention.

If I were buying a new wrench where accuracy was important I would opt of deflecting beam or digital.

Torque accuracy is another whole bag of worms. Is the torque spec wet or dry? If a lubricant is used, what lube? It can make a huge difference in actual applied torque.

 

Darn it CW, I have a Craftsman model (deflecting beam) that takes every ounce of muscle I have to get to the 120 ft pounds, (Im old) I use it when I change snow tires that have their own rims over, and then back to the right tire and rim for the proper season, so accuracy is important to the point that the wheels and tires stay fastened. (done well so far) I was thinking that the click type might at least tell me when I was right there so I could relax!

 

I'm old too so I feel your pain. Too bad hydraulic torque wrenches are so pricey.

Years ago I had an old, crusty shipyard worker tell me his version of the 5 stages of torque.
1. Finger tight
2. Hand tight
3. Wrench tight
4. Star tight
5. Nuts tight

1 through 3 are self explanatory. Star tight is when you crank so hard that you see stars. Nuts tight are when you crank so hard your nuts drop to your knees.

 

Fortunately for me, I bought a Milwaukee Electric (Fuel) after I had to rescue a neighbor who had a flat on his RAM. We got the nuts and tire off with a small lug wrench with a pipe attached, but I said never again! (I had a feeling where you were going with the 5 stages of torque lol)