squirrel cage replacement in evap cooler
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squirrel cage replacement in evap cooler
I am trying to replace just a squirrel cage within an evaporative roof top cooler. Outflow is to the side.
Parts have come apart easily. All bearings are good. I just need a new scroll unit.
Is this something obtainable via a manufacturer?
Also, what does the baffle plate do between the squirrel cage and entry into ducting shaft?
If I remove it, does unit flow more air?
Parts have come apart easily. All bearings are good. I just need a new scroll unit.
Is this something obtainable via a manufacturer?
Also, what does the baffle plate do between the squirrel cage and entry into ducting shaft?
If I remove it, does unit flow more air?
Last edited by PJmax; 02-10-19 at 04:37 PM. Reason: removed email address
#2
Welcome to the forums.
You don't want your email address exposed on a busy site like this. The spam would be incredible. I removed your email address and set you up for instant email notification. You'll get an email with every reply here.
Squirrel cage blowers create a lot of turbulence as they spin. Many times baffles are in place to keep the turbulence from interfering with the incoming air flow.
A picture would be helpful of what you are working on there....... How-to-insert-pictures
You don't want your email address exposed on a busy site like this. The spam would be incredible. I removed your email address and set you up for instant email notification. You'll get an email with every reply here.
Squirrel cage blowers create a lot of turbulence as they spin. Many times baffles are in place to keep the turbulence from interfering with the incoming air flow.
A picture would be helpful of what you are working on there....... How-to-insert-pictures
#3
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squirrel cage replacement
I replaced the oilite bearings on my evap cooler with ball bearing units in order to obtain much longer bearing life.
That tested out as perfectly balanced and aligned, independent of running it with motor. Unfortunately, I inserted the baffle unit in wrong location and upon start up with motor, baffle caught blades of scroll unit and broke them.
I shut motor off instantly but damage was done. Rest of unit is undamaged. Need new scroll unit. It is easy to remove so I can obtain actual diameter plus width. shaft is std 1 inch, turned to .975, in stainless. (No rust now)
All else fails, buy entire new unit and start over with new ball bearings.
(We have had 3 of "regular" ones seize up over the years. Roof is not easy access. )
Many thanks for removing email address. A bit naïve about all this social media.
That tested out as perfectly balanced and aligned, independent of running it with motor. Unfortunately, I inserted the baffle unit in wrong location and upon start up with motor, baffle caught blades of scroll unit and broke them.
I shut motor off instantly but damage was done. Rest of unit is undamaged. Need new scroll unit. It is easy to remove so I can obtain actual diameter plus width. shaft is std 1 inch, turned to .975, in stainless. (No rust now)
All else fails, buy entire new unit and start over with new ball bearings.
(We have had 3 of "regular" ones seize up over the years. Roof is not easy access. )
Many thanks for removing email address. A bit naïve about all this social media.
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Hi John! I’d like know what ball bearing units you used to replace the standard oiler bearings. Are they sealed units? I’m tired of having to oil those things and have searched all over the place for replacement bearings for my spider bearing setup. I don’t have pillow blocks. Thanks!