Gable End Trim Question

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Old 04-15-16, 05:00 AM
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Gable End Trim Question

I am in the middle of a Hardie siding project and am currently working on a gable end roof line. I have been replacing all the trim as I go along, from pine to PVC. Along the roof line on the gable end is currently pine trim, about 5" wide with a 2" piece on top of that right along the roof edge. About a 10' - 12' run of trim. I notice the roof shingles are nailed into this trim from the top edge. I would like to replace this with PVC as well, but question whether or not the PVC will hold the roofing nails as well as the wood.
 
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Old 04-15-16, 05:14 AM
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I nail into the roof sheathing, not the trim, to easy to miss or shoot a nail crooked and have it poke out the face of the trim.
I also always shoot two nails on the end of a run, one one the nail line and one towards the top of the shingle.
That way the winds less likely to be able to roll the shingle back.
PVC trim holds nails fine.
I hope your using 5/4 thick trim.
If not the ends of the laps may not be covered by the trim.
 
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Old 04-15-16, 05:23 AM
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I'm no roofer, but I was surprised to find the roof shingles nailed into the trim and not the sheathing like you suggest. I haven't purchased the trim yet or taken the old trim off, but I'll take into consideration what you mentioned about the thickness of the trim. I planned on a slight overlap on the ends of the lap siding. Just enough to cover the ends but not have to nail through the siding.
 
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Old 04-15-16, 05:34 AM
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Unless you have wood shingles, you should also have metal drip edge over that 1x2. This would be the time to do it.
 
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Old 04-18-16, 11:53 AM
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Hello @CHADSKI22,
I just noticed your post. I did what you are about to do and I have more of it to do as well.
For me, the task was a real pain. Basically, I was unable to remove the old trim without also ruining lots of shingles. I ended up needing to weave in new shingles--which, for me, was an extra big pain, because the size of the shingles has changed since they were installed. The one good thing is that they are architectural style shingles, so I had a little bit of "wiggle" room where I needed to patch.
Joe's point about needing 5/4 is a good one. It is a detail that the Hardie instructions call out for. The trim needs to be at least an inch. I handled it differently though, I installed 2x lumber behind the PVC trim.

I'd be interested in hearing how your project goes, since, like I said, I have more of it to do myself.
 
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Old 04-24-16, 04:42 PM
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Another question to add to this post. When nailing the Hardie plank on the gable end I am concerned about the bottom tips. I am blind nailing and am not sure if just nailing the top will hold the bottom corners down over time. I plan on a slight overlap of the fascia board and considered blind nailing the top and face nailing the bottom on those tips. The face nailing could be covered by the slight overlap of the fascia. But even if it is not covered it will be up high enough that the nail heads can be painted without noticing them.
 
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Old 04-24-16, 07:35 PM
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Yes, there are some places that you just have to face nail, and that's one of them. Hardie instructions don't spell that out. Nail where the siding is no less than 2" tall, or it could explode. Ring shank nails are a must... esp. when nailing into only sheathing, since there will likely be no framing there. If you have no sheathing or foam sheathing, I will use a finish gun instead, to pin the upper piece to the one below it. Once the gable cut is caulked, it won't be going anywhere... so if you can keep it pinned back until the caulking sets, that's good. (My favorite is OSI Quad) If the siding lays back tight, don't bother nailing it... caulking will hold it. If it needs a nail to pin it back, by all means nail it.
 
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Old 05-06-16, 07:03 PM
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I placed 2, 1x2 PVC strips with a total width of 4 1/2" right on the sheathing. I can run the Hardie right to the edge of the inner 1x2. I can then place the 1x6 on top of the two 1x2 strips and run up the gable leaving a 1" overhang over the cut edge of the Hardie which should be just enough to not have to face nail but keep the edges from curling.
 
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Old 05-06-16, 07:30 PM
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Sounds ok. Will also save you from caulking those ends. But according to the hardie instructions, you will want to paint those cut ends before installing them if they will not be caulked. I think Hardie worries that unpainted ends will absorb moisture.
 
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Old 05-15-16, 05:25 AM
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So X, you say "Nail where the siding is no less than 2" tall, or it could explode". Obviously you need to stay away from the tip. Do you mean 2" away from the tip side or do you mean 2" up from the bottom of the piece? 2" up from the bottom of the piece would not drive the nail through the piece below. I could go 2" or 3" up from the bottom to about the middle of the piece, then come in from the side about 1", drill a hole and nail there with the 2 1/2" stainless ring shank fasteners that I have been using. I can catch the header running up the gable under the sheathing as it seems to be at least 2" x 8".The head will keep the piece down and not crack the siding as long at is is not over driven and I will be able to cover the heads all together with the 1" x 6" that will run up as trim on the gable. Everything will be hidden nicely. Again, I just do want to crack the siding of the few rows I have already installed and the remaining rows moving forward.
 
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Old 05-15-16, 06:19 AM
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I mean where the siding is 2" tall.... meaning center the nail so it will be 1" from the bottom edge and 1" from the top edge. Even if it is only nailed to the sheathing, a ring shank will hold. And you have to gently drive the nail unail it is just barely snug... hit it one too many times and it will break.
 
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Old 05-15-16, 07:10 AM
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So 1" from the bottom edge and 1" from the top edge has it going through the course beneath. On a 60 degree angle, that isn't a very wide point to be fearful of breaking.
 
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Old 05-15-16, 07:23 AM
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Is your roof 16:12 or what? I'm picturing a long skinny isoscoles triangle, like what you would have on a 4:12 or 6:12 pitch.
 
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Old 05-15-16, 08:22 AM
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16:12. Here is a picture.

Name:  IMG_2259.jpg
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Old 05-15-16, 11:00 AM
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If it's a steep angle like that you don't have as much to worry about. More important that the nail be 1" from the bottom edge.
 
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Old 05-15-16, 11:35 AM
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1" from the bottom edge places it through the very top of the course beneath.
 
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Old 05-15-16, 12:30 PM
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Is that a question or a statement? See Figure 16. It states 3/4 - 1". You should have a minimum of 1 1/4" of overlap per course.

http://www.jameshardie.com/d2w/insta...hz10-us-en.pdf
 
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Old 05-15-16, 12:47 PM
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Statement. There is a 1 1/4" overlap so that answers my question. The nail is to go through both courses.
 
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Old 05-15-16, 12:55 PM
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I will make a statement too... When asking a question you should really try and use a question mark. Otherwise it's not too clear what your intention is in making the statement... if you are just blogging or actually have a question. There is one question mark in this entire thread, which is a bit odd.
 
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Old 05-15-16, 01:23 PM
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Just trying to make sure I am doing things right. Maybe over analyzing a bit as well. I will remember your suggestion for future posts, as I know I will have more. Thank you for your help and patience in explaining the proper way to install.
 
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Old 05-15-16, 01:25 PM
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I think you have an excellent plan. Its good that you are putting a lot of thought into it, you won't regret that later.
 
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