Bay Window Roof / Flashing
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Bay Window Roof / Flashing
I've attached a couple pictures of the roof/flashing above a bay window. Apparently, there was some water getting into the house from above the window before we bought the house, and it was remedied. I think it was done sloppily and not happy with the way it looks now. Also, not sure it is safe from possible additional leakage in the future. Please check out the pictures and tell me what you think of the look and what needs to be done to do this job correctly.



Last edited by PJmax; 10-27-19 at 11:59 AM. Reason: resized pictures
#2
Forum Topic Moderator
I assume the black sealant is original and the white is what was done to remedy the leak ?
The main thing is the flashing being bent on inserted into a groove cut in the mortar. The caulk/sealant is then used to both keep it in place and make it water tight.
I'd either remove and replace the offending caulk with a more pleasing color or paint that caulk.
The main thing is the flashing being bent on inserted into a groove cut in the mortar. The caulk/sealant is then used to both keep it in place and make it water tight.
I'd either remove and replace the offending caulk with a more pleasing color or paint that caulk.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
OK, the flashing is not bent and tucked into the mortar at all - it is just flush with the brick and caulked all around (yes, with two different colors which looks awful).
For tucking the flashing into the mortar, is it just the top horizontal portion that needs that? Or is each horizontal section of the stepping along the sides also to be tucked in? (I assume each vertical section of the stepping cannot be tucked in, and is just caulked to the brick face, is that correct?)
For tucking the flashing into the mortar, is it just the top horizontal portion that needs that? Or is each horizontal section of the stepping along the sides also to be tucked in? (I assume each vertical section of the stepping cannot be tucked in, and is just caulked to the brick face, is that correct?)
#4
Forum Topic Moderator
Normally the top edge of the flashing is bent at a 90° angle [just 1/4"-1/2"] with the bent part inserted into a groove in the mortar. That way you aren't relying just on the caulking to keep it watertight.
#5
The flashing guy was not a mason so that explains why it isn't tucked into the brick. But this is one of those things that should be coordinated between 2 trades, unless you can find one guy that will do it all. (They exist but are hard to find).
Also, it looks like the flashing guy tried to do it the lazy way, by making the counter flashing in one piece. In most cases you would cut/grind out the mortar, and install the counter flashing in multiple pieces... for example, 7 individual pieces on the left side, starting at the bottom, where each piece flashes the last one. The first counterflashing would go in (with a bend on top that tucks into the ground-out mortar joint) then it would get shimmed down tight and gets mortared (tuck pointed) in. Then the 2nd counterflashing goes on, and it gets mortared in, and so on. The side is left open. No bend on the side, (only the top) and no sealant is necessary if it's done right.
Look for a roofing company that does copper (also hard to find) and expect to pay a fortune if you want it done right.
Also, it looks like the flashing guy tried to do it the lazy way, by making the counter flashing in one piece. In most cases you would cut/grind out the mortar, and install the counter flashing in multiple pieces... for example, 7 individual pieces on the left side, starting at the bottom, where each piece flashes the last one. The first counterflashing would go in (with a bend on top that tucks into the ground-out mortar joint) then it would get shimmed down tight and gets mortared (tuck pointed) in. Then the 2nd counterflashing goes on, and it gets mortared in, and so on. The side is left open. No bend on the side, (only the top) and no sealant is necessary if it's done right.
Look for a roofing company that does copper (also hard to find) and expect to pay a fortune if you want it done right.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Wow, great details in the answers from both of you. Thanks a lot. Now I know exactly what a really proper job on this would be and what to look for/what questions to ask when I go looking to have this redone.