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Cleaning, re-finishing, & sealing powder coated wrought iron gate

Cleaning, re-finishing, & sealing powder coated wrought iron gate


  #1  
Old 09-10-17, 03:16 PM
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Cleaning, re-finishing, & sealing powder coated wrought iron gate

Hello, I'm looking for some advice on cleaning, restoring, & sealing the black powder coated finish on a wrought iron driveway gate.

The issues I will need to address are:

1) A green, mossy-looking discoloration has developed on one side of the gate
2) The powder coating is cracked and lifting in one or two locations
3) Several of the nuts and bolts have developed red rust

My current plan is to go after the greenish stuff with a Blue (i.e. non-scratching) Scotchbrite pad and warm, soapy water, followed by a spraying with vinegar to kill any moss remnants, followed with a good hosing down. If you know of a better moss killer which can be applied to vertical gate members (and which won't damage the black powder coating), I'd love to hear suggestions.

To clean the nuts and bolts, I'm planning to use a brass bristled toothbrush and Metal Glo (an ammonia-based metal cleaner). If the brass isn't aggressive enough to scour off the rust, I'll move to steel wool and Metal Glo.

Once the gate has been cleaned and re-powder coated, it'll be time to seal it against future rust (something I haven't done up until now).

Do you know of a good sealer that would work for this? Ideally, something that dries clear (not amber/yellow) and leaves a wax-like coating.

Any suggestions are much appreciated!
 
  #2  
Old 09-10-17, 03:26 PM
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If you have it powder coated I'm not sure there is any need to add a coat of clear. Powder coats dry hard and should wear well, they also don't sand well when prepping for repaint. Cleaning the metal more often would probably be your best bet. Applying an automotive type wax might be beneficial.
 
  #3  
Old 09-10-17, 03:43 PM
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Once the gate has been cleaned and re-powder coated
You can't re-powder coat in the field. It involves the paint powder to be electrostatically applied to the fence and then baked in an oven.
 
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Old 09-10-17, 04:51 PM
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"If you have it powder coated I'm not sure there is any need to add a coat of clear."

Ah, it is good to hear that. To enhance the gate's visibility after dark, I've added some strips of reflective motorcycle tape. I'll have to remove these prior to having the powder coating re-done, of course, but I was worried about sealing over them once they'd been reapplied. Glad to know I won't have to!

"You can't re-powder coat in the field."

Really? Hmm, the manufacturer's customer support folks recently told me the re-coating could be done in-place with some kind of spraying device. Maybe "powder coated" is more a marketing term than a description of the actual process used to apply the paint in this case?

Is there anything that would be generally similar to a real powder coating in properties like hardness and corrosion-resistance, but which can be applied in situ via spraying?
 
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Old 09-10-17, 05:09 PM
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Traditionally powder coating required baking in an oven. In the following PDF link they talk about flamecoating with plastic in the field. Sounds expensive.

info house/flamecoating.pdf
 
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Old 09-10-17, 09:49 PM
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Thanks for that link, PJmax.

I'm not sure if either of those processes are what they had in mind when they told me it could be done on site. I'm going to get back in touch with the manufacturer tomorrow and hope to get clearer info.

Assuming I'm unable find a local contractor who can re-powder coat on site (using whatever methods), do you think it would be advisable to try recoating it myself with a rust-resistant spray paint that matches the finish of the original paint?

Thanks again for your help.
 
  #7  
Old 09-11-17, 01:48 AM
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I had assumed the gate was going to be took down and brought to the powder coat shop. As Pete said, part of the powder coat process is baking the coating.

You can sand and apply an oil base exterior enamel to the gate on site. Brushing the paint on will give the most protection [small roller will also work] The biggest issue with using aerosol cans of paint is getting a thick enough coat to give long term protection. The paint in a rattle can is drastically thinned in order to atomize coming out of the tip. That makes it difficult to get enough paint on the substrate ..... but is doable.
 
 

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