Cedar Stockade Fence

I am planning to build an 8 foot tall western red cedar fence. I have 10 existing metal posts, 6 feet apart. Salesmen at Big Box stores are suggesting I use pine 2x4's for rails because they are cheaper. A cedar 2x4 at HDep is $10 so that will add up in a hurry. They are also questioning the need for stainless steel nails, which will have to be specials ordered. I hate the stains on my old fence. The rails face the neighbors yard (they refuse to pay on the fence). I want WR cedar because it last longer.
Do you think I should use WR cedar rails or use yellow pine or another type of lumber?

Thank You

 

What type of metal posts? I installed the Z-Post and used Coated Flat head screws that were sold at the lumber store that carried the posts. They were grey and had both a flat head and underside so the snugged up flat to the metal when tightening. Made a very strong connection.

Connecting the pickets I used SS ring shank. Similar to

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

except in the length I needed. Been through 4 winters and no streaking from the heads.

A neighbor put up a fence 2 years ago w/galv and as you drive by you can see all the nail streaks. A bit more expensive but for me worth it. The RS has kept the pickets firmly connected.

BTW, I used redwood which probably would be just as costly as cedar where you're at. After 20 years I re-purposed the old rails since except for a little outside wear the wood was as good as new on most of them (except 6" on the ends). Ran them through a planer to clean them up.

 

You always want to use stainless fasteners with cedar unless you want stains. If you use siding gun nails, you want to use the plastic collated ones.

And you wouldn't use pine 2x4, but you could use pressure treated southern yellow pine. (PT SYP). It won't hold stain the same as the cedar but it's not the side of the fence you will look at. They do like to warp and twist more than cedar so if you think the cost savings is worth it, that's up to you.

If you have 54' of fence and 3 rails thats 162'. (14 boards @ 12' long.) If cedar is twice the cost of PT SYP, you are talking either $200 or $100 for the rails alone. Around here it's $14.50 vs. $7.05 for the 12'ers.

The cedar the box stores sell is also green... so it won't be completely dry.

 

If I'm not mistaken most of the cedar fences I've stained were fastened with galvanized nails. As far as I know I've never had an issue with the nails staining a properly stained fence. Most of the cedar fences used PT lumber for the rails.

 

Hot dipped galvanized will usually be okay, but stainless steel is a sure bet. And electro galvanized fasteners will not prevent staining on unfinished cedar.

 

I usually don't get around cedar fencing/siding unless I'm painting/staining it

 

Thank you all for responding. I did not install the old metal posts back in the 90s, but they look fine. Here in Texas we use 4 rails on a 8 foot fence, it's pretty windy. I am not planning to stain the fence, I like the silver color of aged wood. I also worry about pollution that comes w stain. I now plan to use stainless steel fastners.
Is unseasoned green cedar likely to warp & shrink more than PT yellow pine?
Again, Thank You All for the help!

 

Any wood can warp but cedar has a better chance of staying flat. With 4 rails you won't have any problems with either really.