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Fortify wooden 8x6 high fence with metal fence posts

Fortify wooden 8x6 high fence with metal fence posts


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Old 05-02-23, 01:59 PM
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Fortify wooden 8x6 high fence with metal fence posts

Slowly rotting old 4x4 wooden pressure treated 10 foot long fence posts are slowly rotting around ground level where concrete was filled slightly below grade to be hidden with a weed control treated 2x8 base board below panels.

Got difficult neighbor with garden smack against other side of fence. So would like to do 25 year repairs with fence in place. Some panels blew down in strong winds, some still standing.

1) questions regarding method 1 of reinforcing existing fence: put 9 to 10 foot metal posts at center of still standing panels and add new 8 long horizontal stringers below the three existing horizontal stringers.

I have seen businesses neighboring homes use metal posts to hold up wooden fences. I assume this method reducing chances of fence falling into boarding residential lot in some case boarding alleys etc I believe going with metal posts would last 40 plus years where as some pressure treated 4x4 cemented in posts survived only 25 to 30 years.

I have found the metal clamps to connect metal posts to a short 2x4 to interface to wooden face

1a) digging holes for metal posts smack up to middle of each fence panel. The center of new hole would be the smaller of the following:

minimum diameter of hole for pour cement around metal post, and

radius of metal post plus 2x4 post to stringer mounting board. A moment assume 3 inch diameter galvanized metal post (9 to 10 feet long, 3 to 4 feet buried, thats well beyond from line); this gives center of hole to fence string distance of 1.5 post radius + 1 3/4 (2x4) = 2.25 inches.

Assume 8 inch hole for cements gives 4 hole radius - 1.5 post radius = only 2.5 thickness of cement. May need to go the 10 or more hole diameter. I can start with 6 or 8 inch hole boring and make it larger. In any case the holes outer perimeter will be under the existing 6 high x 6 wide cedar dog eared fence pickets I can either remove some pickets and/or pre-dig some of the hole at an angle to get under the fence picket line.

I do need to get a drilling device about 2.5 from the existing stringers I have seen rental gas auger machines mounted on trailer with hitch that can get pretty close the walls; that have the apparatus of center drilling rotation swung over so the base of trailer & drilling motor are away from the drilling hole.

Im gonna have trouble getting this trailer into the yard with obstacles like raised gardens.

can I build a disable able unit (is this loosely called a Darrick like an oil water well or oil well digging Darrick?, nice to know what to call what Im building or renting)

I have 4 feet deep of something between black dirt and clay like soil. Have hand dug posts before with 6 inch hand digging auger and (garden claw to deal with some rocks). Start with 3-4 foot high digger with handle and then extend by threading on a threaded gas pipe or water pipe (I have check the thread directions to know which it was think black gas pipe).

How long of an upper and lower 6x4 board would I need to drill the center of rotation into, such that I can triangle back away from the fence to handle the torque of digging?

how much torque can A person apply to a hand digging handle (say 18 inch long handle with each handle about 8 inch from rotating digging pole)?


2) Another completely different approach could be a separate thread :-) Holding up existing panels with 2x4(s) triangle gussets. 6 foot high stud mounted straight up to the sky against to existing fence panel stringers, a 8 stud mounted to bottom (ground level) of the 6 high stud just mounted to fence (8 stud goes along ground straight into yard heading away from fence, finally a 10 long stud mount to top of 6 stud and to far end of 8 stud running into yard. Its basically a right triangle 6^2 + 8^2 = 10^2
36 + 64 = 100
100 = 100, perfect right triangle! (Now a wooden gusset), ground keeps fence panel from falling into yard & putting weights or sand bags onto 8 long stud on ground would keep the fence panel from blowing down onto boarding lot.

now the ends of the panel are freed up!

so, how can I remove the 3 to 4 of concrete incased wooden 4x4 of old wooden posts still under the ground????

*** This is bore out the treated 4x4 leaving the buried concrete in place. ***

^^^ then I could drop in the new metal post where the wooden post was and cement in the gap between new metal post and concrete and any remaining wooden from partially rotted wooden post.

the 4x4 wooden posts were set on some to no rock concrete was poured 30 years ago. Bottom of post may have seen some water seep around concrete surface and to bottom of post or little to no water down there. Likely the most rotting only occurred at water pooling at ground level on top of slightly below grade concrete. (Having sub grade concrete in hind site was a big mistake. Even though it may have looked better to us & neighbors and allow a flat 8x2 treated board under fence to avoid weeds Not having tapered concrete above ground level allowed for potential pooling of water and quicken rotting of posts)

*** Any ideas on drilling and/or rotting out the buried 4x4 treated lumber posts????

 
 

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