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# Vinyl Tiling

#1
07-15-16, 12:41 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 14
Vinyl Tiling

Hey again everyone. I hope this is the right place.

I'm currently in the process of re-doing a subfloor in a little mud room and will be puttng groutable vinyl peel and stick ontop afterwards.

My main concern is that the room is very wonky. There is about an inch difference in the legth and width of the room. (ex. 72" x 87" x 73" x 88")

My main concern is - I want to make sure this does not change the look of the tile once placed. Would you suggest that we start from one of the doors (two doors, each on shorter wall) or start from the center of the room.

I hope you understand what I am trying to day, thank you! I am a huge DIY newbie and appreciate any help.

#2
07-15-16, 01:20 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 26,215
Tapers are always more obvious on a thin narrow piece, so adjust your layout and do whatever it takes to avoid skinny pieces along any walls where they would be most noticable.

You should also determine where "square" is. Imagine that you are laying a perfect square centered in the room that is 60x60, where the diagonals of that square are equal... which means the corners will be 90°. (Because that's what your tile layout will be similar to...) That square can either be set straight with one wall, or it can be rotated slightly one way or another to try and split the difference in how crooked it makes the walls around it look. You may find that one of your corners is perfectly square and the other 3 corners are off. Or you may find that the room is skewed, with no corner being perfectly square.

Once you have determined what is going to look best as far as hiding the tapers, determine the sizes those pieces will be around the outside perimeter. You may need to shift your tile layout a half tile one way or the other to avoid any narrow rips. Once you determine that, you can snap a chalk line on the floor to give yourself a line to follow. Then simply work your way backward out of the room one way or the other.

Does that help at all?

#3
07-15-16, 02:12 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 14
Yes that does, thank you! So there's no real set rule to follow for every room. I will do some sketching and figure out where I need to place the center tile in order to avoid having small cut tiles along the wall of the room. If this means having to put the first tile in a corner, or odd point in the room so be it. Right?

Thanks again!

#4
07-15-16, 02:23 PM
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 26,215
Right. It does not necessarily mean you will be starting against a wall with a full tile either. If cutting a few inches off the first tile helps you have a larger tile by the time you get to the other side of the room, that's ok.

So for instance instead of having 12/12/12/12/12/12/12/3, where the 3 tapers from 3 to 2...
you might have 7 1/2 /12/12/12/12/12/12/ 7 1/2 instead where the 7 1/2s taper from 7 1/4 to 7 3/4 on each side. A 1/2" taper on 2 sides may be better than a 1" taper on one side.

#5
07-15-16, 02:27 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: WI/MN
Posts: 18,870
I like to do a dry layout so you can tweak easily until you get the layout most pleasing to the eye.

#6
07-15-16, 02:38 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 14
Fantastic, exactly the answers I was after. As always you guys are a great help for a newbie like myself. Thanks again!!

#7
07-15-16, 03:23 PM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 6,541
If a mud room, if one wall will have a bench on it or where you will place you shoes, you can hide the taper in that area rather than on the open more visible wall.