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Re framing roof in a balloon framed house

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02-28-18, 01:53 PM

Somec

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Re framing roof in a balloon framed house

Has anyone had any experience removing and re framing/redesigning the roof of a balloon framed house? Currently a 1.5 storey looking to increase the pitch to get more ceiling height.

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02-28-18, 05:26 PM

guyold

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" Raise high the roofbeam carpenters " just couldn't stop myself.https://assets.doityourself.com/foru...cons/icon7.gif

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Framing, Flooring and Sub-Flooring
Help! How to Measure for Level and Stiffen Bouncy Floors.

M

miataman2001 on Feb 27, 2018

This is a two part question. 1. What is the most cost effective way of checking the center beam in a crawlspace for level along its entire length? Is it possible to do this with mason line and a line level somehow and measuring down from the floor? If so, please explain exactly how and where to attach the line. There doesn’t seem to be any detailed videos on this. My house is approximately 30’ x 40’ and is a single story built in 1977. The beam runs in the center along the 40’ length. It’s a triple 2x10 beam (so about 4.5” x 9.25”) and it sits on a total of 7 concrete block piers. Two built in to each end of the foundation wall and five spaced evenly in between. 2. My floors are incredibly bouncy! Standing on my toes and then dropping down onto my heels next to the perimeter walls and the walls along the center beam feels solid, but moving that test toward the center of the room a few feet, or in the center itself, results in the entire floor and everything on it shaking/rattling. Even just walking down my hallway, which is about 3 feet wide and runs parallel to a portion of the center beam, results in squeaks/creaks and shaking…and I only weigh 130 pounds! Additionally, I’ve noticed some small cracks starting to form at the top corners of doorways that are in non-load-bearing walls perpendicular to the length of the house and parallel with the joist runs, as well as some out-of-square doorways. I’m wondering if this is happening because of the movement of the floors and possible joist sag. My floor joists are approximately 16’ long 2 x 8s (1.5 x 7.25) installed 16” on center. They sit on the sill about 6 inches or so and continue to the center beam where they sit on that for its 4.5” width and overhang past it for 2’. So the joist span in between the sill plate and the center beam is about 13’4”. From what I understand, this is over the max span for a 2x8 joist 16” on center. Also, there is ½” plywood subfloor (if I recall that size correctly) installed perpendicular to the joists and ¾” particle board installed throughout the house over top of that (that particle board is awful stuff, and I hope to replace it with ¾” plywood or OSB at some point in the future throughout). Would it be better to sister each joist with another 2x8 or to run two more beams, each centered between the main beam and the outside foundation for the length of the house, effectively cutting the joist span in half. Additionally, what would be the best, most cost effective method to check the joists for level in the center? I’d also like to add solid blocking between all of the joists. Where would be the best location for these? I apologize for the long post, but I’m trying to be as detailed as possible. I’m planning to install all new doors and trim in the house (there’s only 5) and new flooring. Before I do that, though, I’d like to stiffen up and level everything out as much as possible. The crawlspace is pretty clear. The majority of wiring was run up to and then down from the attic and the plumbing is confined to one area under the house. Looking forward to any helpful replies. Thanks!Read More
Framing, Flooring and Sub-Flooring
2 story addition

R

Ram85 on Mar 08, 2018

I am looking to add a 2 story addition coming off of the left side of my house which will be 20x24. The 1st story will be partially below grade and tie-in to my existing walk-out basement which is step-framed with 2x6 platform framing. The 2nd story will be 14' walls to create cathedral ceilings and will tie-in to my existing 1st and partially 2nd floor wall which is balloon framed. Being new to building an addition I have some questions that I'd like to get answered before I start drawing up plans. 1. Will this new addition need to have 4 freestanding walls or will I just need 3 walls and the 4th wall would be the existing exterior wall of my house? 2. If I only need 3 walls for the addition, how will I tie in the new roof and walls to the balloon framed walls on the existing 1st and 2nd floors? 3. I am assuming I will also need to tie the foundation of the existing house to the foundation of the addition as well. (I think this is called pinning) If that's the case then I must need to build 4 free standing walls? Before anyone mentions it I am planning to get a structural engineer involved I just want to have a general idea of what I should be asking for and what is possible. I'd also like to draw up the plans myself first to save a bit of money on that yend and then just have them reviewed by a professional. I'm not entirely new to framing as I've remodeled a basement, built a 32'x12' deck and a large shed but this would by far be the largest thing I've taken on Thanks!Read More

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