Rough Opening on Furnace Access Door


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Old 07-30-18, 07:13 PM
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Rough Opening on Furnace Access Door

Hello all.

I'm framing out my basement for finishing. I need to frame out the rough opening for the doors for accessing the furnace/water heater/water softener closet. I'm looking for suggestions as to what kind of door I would use in this space, and therefore what width I should frame this rough opening. Unfortunately, the door will be right under a soffit under duct work, so the rough opening height will only be 73 1/2". Here are some pictures for reference. I've propped up some studs just to give an idea of where my rough opening will be and what the space looks like. In this picture, the width of the opening is 52", but I could probably go 2 inches in either direction with the left side of the opening if need be.

So in short, what are some door ideas for this space, and how large should I make the rough opening?





 
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Old 07-30-18, 07:31 PM
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First off, your bottom plates should all be pressure treated wood. I know you pronanly just have those pieces laying in there for looks. Studs should all land on top of the plate, not sit directly on the floor.

As for the doors, depends how handy you are, if you intend to paint or stain, etc. And will the doors to that room need a louver for makeup air for the furnace and water heater, or ​​​​​will you have a vent in a wall somewhere, or maybe one side of a shared wall will be an unfinished room?

You could get a hollow core 6 panel double door, cut the top 2 panels off and have a decent 68" (or so) high door slab. But since they are hollow you would need to cut and glue a plug in... takes a table saw and a few clamps. Then mortise hinges.

if you get a solid 6 panel door you could do the same thing but no plug to glue in.

​​​​​​your RO depends on the size doors you use. For a single door, RO = door width +2". For double doors it's door width x 2 + 2 1/2". So let's say you use two 24" slabs. (And I say slabs because you don't want the hinges mortised... you want to do that after you have cut them down... and you will need to build / mortise your own jambs.)

24 + 24 = 48. + 2 1/2 = 50 1/2" rough opening.
 
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Old 07-30-18, 07:45 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply.

Yeah, you're correct I just propped the studs there for the visual. I've been using pressure treated lumber for the bottom plates and putting the vertical studs on top of that.

There actually is a vent in the side of the house with an open, insulated tube which feeds directly into the furnace area. I've assumed this is for the makeup air, so I don't think I should need any venting within the door itself.

Is the extra 1/2" in the rough opening to account for the space in between the doors? I've been doing my rough opening for normal doors with 2" wider than door size.
 
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Old 07-30-18, 09:02 PM
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Yes..?.......................................
 
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Old 07-30-18, 09:11 PM
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I've assumed this is for the makeup air, so I don't think I should need any venting within the door itself.
I would disagree..... I would allow some additional venting into the room.
 
 

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