Balloon Framing Load Bearing Wall


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Old 10-30-18, 01:53 PM
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Balloon Framing Load Bearing Wall

Hi All,

I own a balloon framed house built in 1910 with a rubble stone foundation. The previous owners did quite a bit of DIY, some of it OK, most of it pretty bad (lazy), and I've been in the process of fixing as much as I can. Recently my attention has been drawn to this opening that they cut as a sort of pass through between the kitchen and the dining room. It measures about 12 ft wide and 6 ft tall.

The reason that I've been worried about it is that I've noticed jagged cracks developing both up and down what remains of this wall, and in the dining room/kitchen ceiling that seem to connect. They're hairline for now so I'm not sure what to make of them, really, but given how much lazy stuff the P.O. did it makes me pretty nervous.

I know that generally speaking load bearing walls are perpendicular to joists, however I've been told that balloon framing can distribute loads in unusual ways (please correct that info if it's wrong). In my case, both the basement joists and attic rafters run parallel to this wall, but I'm unsure of which way the second floor joists run. I plan on finding out for sure this weekend. I think it's a safe bet they are also parallel, but who knows with old construction.

I should also mention that almost dead center above this opening/wall on the second floor is another wall running nearly the entire length of the second floor. That wall *is* perpendicular to the first floor cutout/wall. My guess would be that second floor wall is transferring some weight onto the first floor wall, causing some sagging and therefore cracks, but that's just a guess.

So, can anyone give me their best guess as to whether this wall is load bearing?

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Old 10-30-18, 02:40 PM
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I have several rental homes that are balloon framed. You are correct that loads can end up in unexpected places. Interior walls that "should" be non-load bearing can become load bearing as the building shifts and settles with age.

When I spot a problem sometimes modern, traditional building techniques can help like adding a support column, header or beam to help spread the load or take the load off of something that never should have had a load. Often though the problems are just odd and I resort to steel. If you're lucky there are stock Simpson brackets or ties that will work but often I find them to be too lightweight and end up fabricating what's needed. Unfortunately it usually means taking out a bit of the plaster for access but it's easy enough to patch back with sheetrock.
 
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Old 10-30-18, 04:01 PM
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Thanks Pilot. I tried getting some specs from local engineers on a header but no one has gotten back to me yet, which is frustrating. It wouldn't be the first one I've installed but definitely the longest span- I'm guessing LVLs are in order and that something like two 12x2's wont cut it?
 
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Old 10-31-18, 05:03 AM
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You can look online for span tables. 12 ft is doable with standard lumber. With my building inspectors if you use any engineered products like an LVL then they require engineering documentation, stamp and signature from a licensed Professional Engineer. If your application falls within the span tables for traditional lumber then no Engineer is required for inspection but since you have an odd application it could go either way.
 
 

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