Pool Cue Stick Project


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Old 01-18-16, 03:10 PM
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Pool Cue Stick Project

First... History.
I have an old pool cue in which I had drilled a 3/8" hole, approx 15" deep to lighten it to my preference. The cue had been sitting here for a number of years due to leaving it in a leaky truck, finish damage. I decided recently to remove the finish, sand the stick and apply fresh polyurethane. Since the stick has flaws, I decided to add weight back to it and use it as a break cue (to break a rack of pool balls). I used the glue that I have available and that I figured would be the easiest to get to flow down in there, regular Elmer's type white glue. I first cut a 3/8" wood dowel piece about 5" long, added glue down the hole and drove that in. Next, I did the same with a piece of 3/8" steel rod about 8.5" in length. Then did the same with a finishing dowel piece about 1.5" long.

Now... The Question
Since the stick is clearcoated, can someone somewhat knowledgable tell me how long it will probably take for the glue to thoroughly set? The end grain of the wood, which I believe is ash, is exposed on the end where the rubber bumper will be attached. Even though I drove each piece home, I don't want to risk possibly breaking the integrity of the bond by beaking pool balls with it prematurely.

Thanks
 
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Old 01-18-16, 03:15 PM
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Was the area where the glue was used coated with poly? white glue won't adhere well to poly. As long as the wood that's been glued is raw wood the glue should set normally although if it's pressed into an air type space it might not dry completely.
 
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Old 01-18-16, 04:39 PM
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I would have used a glue that did not depend upon a solvent evaporation to harden such as epoxy. Even an adhesive such as Gorilla Glue that hardens when in the presence of moisture would have been better in my opinion. It may, eventually, harden but in an air-tight space it will be very slow in doing so.
 
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Old 01-18-16, 05:30 PM
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A 3/8 hole is pretty big, for a pool cue. It sounds like a one piece cue except most pool players don't carry a one piece cue. Do you only play 8 ball? That would be the only reason why you would need extra weight for the break. Top roll is used for that.

I would think that the glue would set in 24 hours. I don't think that you would need more time than that.
 
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Old 01-18-16, 06:06 PM
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I would also mark the sweet spot on the cue after it sets up. The chances of you getting a perfectly balanced cue out of this experiment is slim. One side of the end will likely be heavier than the other. Make a mark that lets you orientate the cue the same way each time. Heavy side down so you aren't off in your stroke. Having a perfect favorite cue is important. I was the second place finisher in the campus tournament freshmen year in college. My crutch was I was skilled on an 8 ft table. They tourney was on a 9 ft table. Just enough to mess with the angles and distances.
 
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Old 01-18-16, 06:58 PM
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I don't want to risk possibly breaking the integrity of the bond by beaking pool balls with it prematurely
As others said, wait as long as possible, 2 days, 3 days, not weeks. The bad news is I think the integrity of the bond will be broken no matter what.
White glue is not the best for wood and especially not metal. It will harden, maybe crystalize over time, and just lose all holding power.

This is why when I play the best, I just use a broomstick
 
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Old 01-18-16, 07:16 PM
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Thanks Guyz

Marker, yes the hole was bare wood. The doweling I used is poplar. Hind sites 20/20. I should have at least primered the steel rod, but I didn't.

Furd, yes, I thought of epoxy but it would have been awfully hard to get a sufficient amount down a 15" hole. On the first dowel, I had to tap it quite a few times before it hit bottom. So, I'm sure a sufficient amount of glue was forced backwards around it. The steel rod is going to be a partial barrier against evaporation (water based).

Pulpo, the stick is an old 2pc Dufferin Banner. The stick was originally 21oz. My preference for shooting is anywhere from a 16 to 19oz. The 15", 3/8" hole made the stick about 18oz. I shoot a lot in the bars and often times you can't find a heavy bar cue. So, I thought I'd turn the Dufferin into one, to keep in my case just for breaking. I actually just guessed at the length of the steel rod and from my weighing on a cheapo postal scale, it's gonna turn out about 21 or 22oz. (damn, I'm good)

czizzy, good point. I will do that because I'm sure the hole I drilled wasn't perfectly perpendicular. I never could see paying high dollar for a pool cue. That is why I bought the Dufferin for $35, I believe it was, years ago at Wally World. They are/were decent sticks. My main stick (right now) is an old Sportcraft 2pc sneeky pete, 19oz, that I bought at a thrift store for $7. I'm "thinking" about drilling an ounce or two out of it. If I can find a lighter one just like it, I won't.

I'm thinking I might just let the stick set for a month. Surely it will be cured by then.
 
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Old 01-19-16, 02:57 AM
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I shoot a lot in the bars and often times you can't find a heavy bar cue.
Ah, the good old days. I remember a buddy and I use to go out to the bars, buy our first beer and then play pool for beers the rest of the night. Never had to buy another one. I also remember one night more recently, I got into the rotation on the table, broke the rack and then ran the table- Nobody wanted to play me after that So, sometimes I had to dog it a little to keep people interested.

I also thought that you adjusted weight by adding large washers/metal disks to the base of the cue to customize it. Would be a lot easier than trying to drill out the cue itself. More important than the heavy cue was the small tip - bar cues always had the fattest tips on them, made it tough to control the cue ball. And if you were lucky, you found one that was somewhat straight. Sometimes, chaulk was at a premium as well, ever played with a dry tip? Played a lot in my neighbors basement, another functioning cue was the sawed off one for when you were tight to the rail and a standard cue hit the wall behind you. Thanks for bringing back the memories, that was 25 years ago.
 
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Old 01-19-16, 04:07 AM
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I refuse to shoot on anything but a regulation table & only straight pool. I'm not a fan of 8 ball.
 
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Old 01-24-16, 09:29 AM
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My main objective for this thread was to hopefully find suggestions from woodworkers with possible knowledge on how long said glue would take to dry/cure in a 15" deep hole. Thanks to all who have replied. With the conflicting results, I guess I'll just let it cure for a month or more. As far as the white glue not being a good choice, as stated, I just used what I had readily available. If the stick lasts for 10 years, I will be satisfied (or if I last for 10 years). If the steel rod should ever loosen, it will be easy to drill the 1 1/2" dowel out to try to remove the rod. The stick will only be used for breaking (unless I want to use it for a power shot, Le Pro 13mm tip).

Pulpo, I don't know what you're referring to as straight pool. I've always considered 8 ball as straight pool. Even 9 ball as straight pool. I always play (No Slop, No Bad Lick). The tournaments I play in sometimes have APA (ball in hand) and (slop counts) rules. That's OK with me. No big deal. I'll play on any table I can play on, wheather it's the regulation/snooker tables at the billiard clubs or the 7 foot tables in the bars. Fun is my objective and younger hottie ladies is a plus too . I'm 61 and I ain't dead yet (some of the tables are tho). I've got a set of old Sulac phenolic 1.5" balls that I'm itchin to play on a reg table. FUN
Bumper Pool?

czizzi, The APA league players at my favorite bar say they'd rank me about a 4 or 5. They've tried to get me to join the team. A good friend of mine who ranks about a 7 told me, "You don't want to join a league. It'll mess with your game". So, I've refrained.
On the sawed-off stick, I've actually just used the shaft before (or the bumper on the butt, if possible LOL)

Cheers!
 

Last edited by Daryl N; 01-24-16 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 01-24-16, 10:04 AM
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On the sawed-off stick, I've actually just used the shaft before (or the bumper on the butt, if possible LOL)
There was one place in his basement that there was a wall to the underside of the stairs where any time the cue was against the rail, you needed the small stick. Anyway, thanks for stirring up some memories. I also loved the family tourny's at the holidays and the ever present game of 501 on the dart board.
 
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Old 02-04-16, 05:16 PM
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Well, I took the stick to Kroger and asked the meat guy to weigh it. 1.32lb (or, a little over 21oz)

I hadn't even thought about the rail height on using the 1.5" balls on a 2.25" ball table. If you hit the balls hard enough they'd probably get stuck under the bumper LOL (exaggeration of course). Oh well, it was a fun thought. I did play one game on a regulation table with a set of 1 7/8" balls I have. It was fun. Harder that you'd imagine to hit the object ball in the right spot (combos incl). It had been years since I played on a regulation table. I need to go more often (if it wasn't for $6/hour).

Eventually, I'll have one in my garage, Lord willin'.

Yes czzizi, I have a case of darts covered with dust. I'm usually pretty good at darts. It's just that, givin a choice, I'd play pool!

Thanks again budro's
 
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Old 02-04-16, 05:48 PM
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I love a 21 oz. stick.

Pulpo, I don't know what you're referring to as straight pool.
I'm not sure either. To me (I grew up in Ohio) this is rotation/straight pool. Sink the balls in sequence and combos count, shoot till you miss.
Minnesota Fats and Willy Mosconi were famous for this back in the day, and waiting for them to miss was probably not fun. Great game.
 
 

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