New project assistance
#1
06-05-19, 04:04 PM
New project assistance
Hello everyone
Here is my new project aka learning to work with wood
Any advice on how I should tackle this..?
They are beech wood chairs that are starting to flake and the metal is beginning to chip.
What can be done to save this beautiful chairs?
Thank you!
Here is my new project aka learning to work with wood
Any advice on how I should tackle this..?
They are beech wood chairs that are starting to flake and the metal is beginning to chip.
What can be done to save this beautiful chairs?
Thank you!
Last edited by PJmax; 06-05-19 at 06:55 PM. Reason: reoriented/resized pictures
#2
06-05-19, 04:12 PM
Group Moderator
Is the same thing happening on the bottom side of the chair? Is so I would sand an area just to confirm that it's only the finish but I think they will just need refinishing.
#3
06-05-19, 04:30 PM
No the bottom is clean. Here is a photo of the top zoomed in (you can see it is starting to chip)
and here is a photo of the bottom.
I would love to have stained them but I feel like it is way past this point, correct?
So is my best best to use a citrus stripper, then sand (which will remove all the top wood layer?), then paint, then add a lacquer?
Thank you Pilot Dane.
I am having so much fun learning this.
and here is a photo of the bottom.
I would love to have stained them but I feel like it is way past this point, correct?
So is my best best to use a citrus stripper, then sand (which will remove all the top wood layer?), then paint, then add a lacquer?
Thank you Pilot Dane.
I am having so much fun learning this.
Last edited by PJmax; 06-05-19 at 06:59 PM. Reason: resized pictures
#4
06-05-19, 04:43 PM
Yes, strip and sand. After that, I would recommend a woodgrain filler (Google it, there are a hundred kinds) and more sanding then prime with a sandable primer (like SW wall and wood primer) followed by light sanding with 220 grit then a high gloss trim/cabinet enamel. No, do not put any clear coat over your paint.
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#6
06-05-19, 04:56 PM
#7
06-05-19, 09:01 PM
I am a bit worried with what I have so far.
I used the citrus stripper and let it sit for 2 1/2 hours.
After scraping off the top layer of the top and bottom, not much of a sealant came off.
The last table I used the citrus stripper on had layers come off.
I also lightly sanded the pieces by hand with a 220 grit.
Should I sand more and with a electric sander?
I plan on using black paint for the wood and painting the matt chrome legs black as well because they are chipped and scratched.
Any advice at this point..?
I used the citrus stripper and let it sit for 2 1/2 hours.
After scraping off the top layer of the top and bottom, not much of a sealant came off.
The last table I used the citrus stripper on had layers come off.
I also lightly sanded the pieces by hand with a 220 grit.
Should I sand more and with a electric sander?
I plan on using black paint for the wood and painting the matt chrome legs black as well because they are chipped and scratched.
Any advice at this point..?
#8
06-05-19, 09:08 PM
2 1/2 hrs seems a bit long... I would think it would be dry and sticky, unless the directions said to leave it on that long?
You could try sanding after you clean it up, but I would start with 120 grit, then 150. But I would not waste time sanding with 220. 220 is for between coats... such as sanding primer or between coats of clear finish like poly.
Does the finish on the wood still seem like it is sealed? (Like you haven't removed the finish?) Stripping a clear finish isn't the same as stripping layers of paint, so I don't know what you were expecting to see.
You could try sanding after you clean it up, but I would start with 120 grit, then 150. But I would not waste time sanding with 220. 220 is for between coats... such as sanding primer or between coats of clear finish like poly.
Does the finish on the wood still seem like it is sealed? (Like you haven't removed the finish?) Stripping a clear finish isn't the same as stripping layers of paint, so I don't know what you were expecting to see.
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#9
06-05-19, 10:16 PM
Luckily it isn't dry and sticky. Weew!
I will use your directions and start with a 120 grit, then 150.
I am afraid the current color will be coming off and it will chip slowly to show more brown. (I guess I shouldn't worry because I will be painting it anyways.)
But yes, the finish on the would seems like it is sealed on the top and sides, but not the bottom.
I thought the citrus stripper would strip the clear coat off the wood.
I will use your directions and start with a 120 grit, then 150.
I am afraid the current color will be coming off and it will chip slowly to show more brown. (I guess I shouldn't worry because I will be painting it anyways.)
But yes, the finish on the would seems like it is sealed on the top and sides, but not the bottom.
I thought the citrus stripper would strip the clear coat off the wood.
#10
06-06-19, 03:14 AM
I don't care much for citrus strippers, I prefer the more caustic strippers because they work better. You always need to sand after you're done with chemical stripping. I wouldn't rule out stain/poly until I was done with the stripping/sanding process. If the wood doesn't look good enough for stain - then prime and paint.
diysocal voted this post useful.
