Button Opens Both Doors???
#1
06-08-16, 07:59 AM
Button Opens Both Doors???
Hi Everyone,
Any help with my problem would be greatly appreciated. I have one fairly new garage door opener made by LifeMaster, installed about 2 months ago and working fine (until now). The other garage door is an old opener, probably pre-1993 and has worked fine until now. When I press the wired button to my new LiftMaster it sometimes, not always, will open the other garage door that has the old opener as well as the LiftMaster door itself. When this happens, the two do not always open at the same time. Most of the time, the LiftMaster will open and then a few seconds later the other older opener opens. Again, this is from the wired LiftMaster button on the wall, not with the remote. There is a wired button to the older opener about 1 foot away from the LiftMaster button? Actually, a couple of times after I've verified that opening the LiftMaster door did not cause the older opener to open (by waiting for a few minutes and even checking 15 minutes later), in the middle of the night I'll find the older opener opened even without opening the LiftMaster door.
I've scoured the internet for answers and I don't see a situation described quite like mine. I see people talking about their remote opening both doors, neighbors remotes opening their door but nothing seemingly like what I describe above. I did call the company that installed the door and they claim it's related to the rolling code issue and the fact that my older opener doesn't have the rolling codes. They had no solution other than replacing my older opener. Strange thing with their solution is the LifeMaster they installed worked fine for 2 months and the other opener was also working fine. Plus, I thought the rolling codes were only related to remotes and not the directly wired buttons.
Again, any replies would be appreciated. Thanks so much.
Any help with my problem would be greatly appreciated. I have one fairly new garage door opener made by LifeMaster, installed about 2 months ago and working fine (until now). The other garage door is an old opener, probably pre-1993 and has worked fine until now. When I press the wired button to my new LiftMaster it sometimes, not always, will open the other garage door that has the old opener as well as the LiftMaster door itself. When this happens, the two do not always open at the same time. Most of the time, the LiftMaster will open and then a few seconds later the other older opener opens. Again, this is from the wired LiftMaster button on the wall, not with the remote. There is a wired button to the older opener about 1 foot away from the LiftMaster button? Actually, a couple of times after I've verified that opening the LiftMaster door did not cause the older opener to open (by waiting for a few minutes and even checking 15 minutes later), in the middle of the night I'll find the older opener opened even without opening the LiftMaster door.
I've scoured the internet for answers and I don't see a situation described quite like mine. I see people talking about their remote opening both doors, neighbors remotes opening their door but nothing seemingly like what I describe above. I did call the company that installed the door and they claim it's related to the rolling code issue and the fact that my older opener doesn't have the rolling codes. They had no solution other than replacing my older opener. Strange thing with their solution is the LifeMaster they installed worked fine for 2 months and the other opener was also working fine. Plus, I thought the rolling codes were only related to remotes and not the directly wired buttons.
Again, any replies would be appreciated. Thanks so much.
#2
06-08-16, 12:19 PM
Welcome to the forums.
This is a new one for me. If the wall control is hardwired, it should not be transmitting a signal to the other opener. Ghosts?
There are several opener pros here, but they are probably currently at work.
Check back later. Hopefully we can help to solve this problem.
This is a new one for me. If the wall control is hardwired, it should not be transmitting a signal to the other opener. Ghosts?
There are several opener pros here, but they are probably currently at work.
Check back later. Hopefully we can help to solve this problem.
#3
06-08-16, 02:13 PM
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I'm not the opener pro either, I would check back. Here's some things I would check on my own.
- Disconnect the wires from the old opener's switch. Leave them off for an extended period if need be. This will ensure the button isn't accidently making contact.
- Ensure no remotes are stored in purses or crowded drawers. Some remote buttons are very sensitive.
- Disconnect the wires from the old opener's switch. Leave them off for an extended period if need be. This will ensure the button isn't accidently making contact.
- Ensure no remotes are stored in purses or crowded drawers. Some remote buttons are very sensitive.
#4
06-08-16, 07:24 PM
Thanks for your suggestions Handyone. I disconnected the wires to the old opener button. None of the remotes are being stored where the buttons on them might be crowded and pushed, etc.
Weirdest thing to me is that this is happening with the wired button and that it all worked well for the two months since the new LiftMaster opener was installed. Still would love to hear from someone with a solution or other thoughts on my issue.
Thanks in advance everyone!
Weirdest thing to me is that this is happening with the wired button and that it all worked well for the two months since the new LiftMaster opener was installed. Still would love to hear from someone with a solution or other thoughts on my issue.
Thanks in advance everyone!
#6
06-09-16, 03:26 AM
Member
I have seen builders use cheep data/ phone line when they pre wire or hide the wires in the walls and ceilings. over time the cheep cable can fail or get a short.... Are the openers push button wires buried in the walls? If so are the wires real thin? Does this happen if the push button wire is removed from the older opener?
#7
06-09-16, 03:36 AM
Member
I'd trace the wires from the electronic eyes, back to the units and then trace the lines back to the wall units to make sure they are two completely separate circuits. Check any junction boxes that they may go into to see if connections are loose twisted or wire nutted.
#9
06-09-16, 09:36 AM
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will check on and try everything suggested. Yes, the wires are very thin and at certain points the lines from both buttons to the units are side by side. Again, keep in mind all worked well the first two months after the LiftMaster opener was installed.
An additional question, the company that installed the new LiftMaster opener claims there is nothing they can do that this issue is related to the rolling code problem. However, given this issue relates to the hard wired wall buttons and not the remotes is their answer bogus and perhaps they should come out and check out the problem? I would like to know this because I charged their work to my Amex and I can still contest their charge if they won't cooperate with this problem. Or, at the least, my contesting the charge will get someone to come out and fix the issue.
An additional question, the company that installed the new LiftMaster opener claims there is nothing they can do that this issue is related to the rolling code problem. However, given this issue relates to the hard wired wall buttons and not the remotes is their answer bogus and perhaps they should come out and check out the problem? I would like to know this because I charged their work to my Amex and I can still contest their charge if they won't cooperate with this problem. Or, at the least, my contesting the charge will get someone to come out and fix the issue.
#10
06-09-16, 05:56 PM
Have you had the problem since disconnecting the wires from the old opener button like Handyone suggested? I think as a great place to start because if the switch is going bad vibration from the new door closing could be activating the switch for the old door.
#11
06-09-16, 07:40 PM
Thanks for your reply.
I just disconnected the old button today so too early to tell given the situation before was intermittent. Now, I only disconnected the wiring from the button because I have a classic car on the old opener side of the garage and need to move that car out to disconnect the button wiring from the unit itself...unless that doesn't matter (in case it's a short?)?
This weekend I'll do some of the things suggested by all of you helpful people (so glad I found this site!) and report back. Thanks again to all.
I just disconnected the old button today so too early to tell given the situation before was intermittent. Now, I only disconnected the wiring from the button because I have a classic car on the old opener side of the garage and need to move that car out to disconnect the button wiring from the unit itself...unless that doesn't matter (in case it's a short?)?
This weekend I'll do some of the things suggested by all of you helpful people (so glad I found this site!) and report back. Thanks again to all.
#12
06-10-16, 03:22 AM
Member
You really should disconnect the wires at the opener and not the push button... If there is a short in the wire that is activated by vibration of the other opener, it will still activate your door weather the push button is there or not.
#13
06-10-16, 06:08 AM
Thanks Doorman2722. Yes, this weekend I'll disconnect the button wire at the opener and see what happens. Since disconnecting it from the button, there have been no issues although, as previously mentioned, the problem I was having was intermittent.
I'll report back later and let everyone know.
I'll report back later and let everyone know.
