It's about a year and a half old. A few weeks ago it stopped closing automatically at the press of the wall button, in-vehicle remote, or remote keypad. It will close if I hold the wall button. Pulling the vehicle out, stopping, and getting out of the vehicle to close the door is getting to be a PITA. I got door openers for the convenience of opening & closing them as I pull in or out of the driveway. Unplugging it for awhile and plugging it back in does nothing to fix it. The red light blinks indicating that the Safe-T-Beam sensors are obstructed or misaligned, but they aren't. The lights on the sensors are normally solid and blink when there's an obstruction, as they should be. I wired them to the opener for the adjacent bay and operation is normal. I wired the sensors from the adjacent bay to the problem opener and it still blinks. The sensors are thus fine and the problem must be the opener. I took it apart and found no apparent problem on the circuit board. Seems like it's sending what it's supposed to to the sensors but not reading anything from the sensors I'm hoping there's some I can do to that will override or bypass the opener's need for whatever it gets from the sensors. I don't care what safety laws I violate. There are no pets or little kids around. If I can rig up a bypass or override I'll rig a way to disconnect it when there are little kids around with the door open. I've read that the opener sends a modulated signal out and expects to get something modulated from the sensors. I'm a little curious how it does both on the same wires. Spoofing the signals with an external circuit will not work. I've read, and doubt anyway, at merely shorting the connection will do the trick. Maybe I'll take each opener apart and put the circuit boards side-by-side to see where the differences are such as a component values or continuity.

One of the two torsion springs on my Hormann sectional door broke recently. I ordered replacements and installed them - no problems thus far. The only comprehensive video on Hormann door springs that I found happens to be in [URL="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fA5XnXTMOdA"]German[/URL] but I understand enough so that did not pose a problem. The big issue I have is this - look at the position of the levers behind the cable drums at 20:05 and 21:11 in the video. You will notice that the top of the lever - the bit that can be pressed down - is clearly ABOVE the bolt that holds the spring in place. But then at 21:51 seconds into the video he insists that the lever should be BELOW the bolt. From what I can see with the lever in that position the cable drum engages with the bar and turning the bar also turns the drum. The bolt holding spring housing to the door frame uses a bolt around which fits a brass color which then goes through a SLOT (not a hole) in the door frame. It can be arranged so the lever is BELOW the bolt but this raises two issues [LIST] [*]In this position the drum is engaged and when I try to wind the spring it uncoils the cable from the drum [*]Given that the bolt + collar assembly is in a slot - as opposed to a whole - it slides so the lever ends up ABOVE the bolt anyway. [/LIST] Questions [LIST] [*]As far as I can see if the lever is ABOVE the bolt the cable drum is disengaged - i.e. it will not turn with the bar when the door goes up/down [*]When I undid the broken spring assembly from the door I cannot recall that the lever was below the bolt - or else it would have snapped on my finger as I undid it I have attached a few photographs that, I hope, explain the issue better. I would be most grateful for any helps and tips here who has more experience with such doors than. [/LIST][ATTACH]67376[/ATTACH]