Stanley Quiet Glide problem


Old 11-12-16, 05:40 AM
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Stanley Quiet Glide problem

Hello everyone. I'm having a problem with my garage door opener. This unit has been operating properly ever since I moved into the house, but two days ago, all of a sudden, the top of the door started hitting the chain support bar, and stops opening the second it hits the bar. I had a neighbor pull the top of the door downwards while I pushed the open/close switch on the wall, and it did open then. I don't have the remote for it, nor a a manual for this unit, but I've looked and looked at this and can't for the life of me, figure out an adjustment, or why this problem started. Apparently, there must have been a very close gap between the door and this bar when it was installed, and I can't see any way anything could have become loose, or out of adjustment but it appears something has happened.
I've replaced the steel cables on this unit, and adjusted the side rails when I moved in, as the door wouldn't open at that time. I know there are controls on the back of the motor unit, but don't have a manual to explain their use.
As I'm on a fixed income I can't afford to call a repairman, but I'm a very good home repair person, with all the tools I would need. All I need is a little insight and any help would be appreciated mucho.

Btw, this unit is a Stanley Quiet Glide, with a chain and cable type pulling assembly.

Here is a Sketchup showing where the problem is

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Old 11-12-16, 05:58 AM
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Oh, I forgot. I'm not absolutely positive, but if memory serves me, the black bar
that actually lifts the door,(which is NOT shown in the Sketchup) used to be at a slight angle in relationship to the door when closed.'s parallel with the door. However, I could be wrong about that. But I remember noticing that a long time ago. This may have nothing to do with the problem, but I thought I should mention it.
Old 11-12-16, 06:04 AM
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Not the door guy but a quick is to make sure the rollers are there and in the rails. Also they are not loose in there mounts. Disconnect the door from opener and see if you can work it by hand. Post back what you find it will help the pro's. If you can find model # it will help. Found this
Old 11-14-16, 08:09 AM
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pugsl said:
Disconnect the door from opener and see if you can work it by hand. Post back what you find it will help the pro's. If you can find model # it will help.
Hello pugsl. Thanks for chiming in. Sorry I didn't get right back on this. Took a few days to find the time to deal with this.

Ok, here's what's happening. I disconnected the door from the opener, and tried the opener just to see what would happen. The black puller bar moved to the same point as when the door would jam against the chain support bar..and then it stopped. I then tried to lift the door manually, and it did hit that support bar, but kept on moving smoothly. It appears this door has been scrapping this bar since installation as there is an area about 6" long on the bar that the black paint has scraped off, and the top of the door is dented right where it rubs. This support bar is up against the ceiling so it can't be adjusted upwards. Ok, onward.

Then, I looked at the opener motor housing to find the model number, which is ST305 A09.

As I had never had a need to look at the control panel, I now took a look. There was a flashing red light above a switch that I couldn't read the lable because the main light bulb was missing. So, I replaced the light and now could read the control switch labels.
Since I didn't have a manual, I decided to wing it and see what happens. I first pushed the "Learn" button, and then pushed the UP button. Nothing happened. Then I went to the wall UP/Down switch and pushed it. The chain started moving towards the Opener as I kept pushing the switch button. It came to a stop at the full open position. Then, I pushed the Down button on the Opener, and the chain moved towards the door, which was now closed. It finally engaged the black pull bar. I then tried to open the door again. UT OH!
Instead of pulling the door upwards, this time, it actually started pulling the door panel inwards towards the back of the garage, and actually BENT the panel. GAK!!! Here's a pic:
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This is when I decided to stop before I damaged it further. Totally baffled as to why it didn't LIFT the door. HOWEVER, I just went out and tried it again. It did lift this time, but the same problem happened. The door hit that support bar..and stopped. That new light bulb began flashing too, as did that little red light. I assume because the door jammed before reaching full open.

Here's another thing too. A few days before this problem came up, I noticed something at the hinge below the mount for the lifting bar. The flanges on those frame members that are riveted to the door panel flanges, behind the hinges, had ripped past the rivets. I assume because this is the area where the most force is exerted on the framing when being lifted. However, the only way I could fix this, was to replace the rivets with 1/4-20 bolts, fastened THROUGH the hinge plates. Here's a pic...
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As the door opened after fixing this, I didn't think anything about it. But then, two days later, this problem started happening. And I'm not sure this fix has anything to do with it. But who knows. The hinge still operates as it's supposed to. So..that's where I'm at today. Totally baffled.

Oh, one more thing, I couldn't get that link to download a manual. It did download a page of gibberish which was useless. Thanks anyway.

And again... any help would be appreciated.

ps.. I did look at all the rollers. They are all within the track. At least for now. This is another problem I thought I solved when I first moved in. At the time, the bottom right roller had come out of the track. I thought I'd solved this by adjusting the tracks, removing the roller support bushing housing, and reinserting the roller. However, twice more it happened, and I just noticed that same roller is twice as far from the door as at the top. Perhaps I still haven't got these tracks parallel. At the top, the door clearance to the track is almost nill. At the bottom, the rollers are extended to their max, and, it appears the tracks are like a parallelogram. That is..not square to the door. I'll see if I can get these tracks in alignment.
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