Need to build lean-to addition to small shop

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Old 02-07-17, 01:25 PM
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Need to build lean-to addition to small shop

I have a 12'x24' outbuilding used as a small shop. It is stud frame construction with T111 siding. It has a wood floor and is build on 3 skids sitting upon concrete blocks. I need to build a lean-to shed addition to one end. I want the shed roof to attach to one 12' wide end of the shop building. The roof on the shop is corrugated galvanized tin but needs replacing.

The materials I have on hand are 10 used treated 4x4's 8 to 9 ft long and 2 - 6" diameter x 8' poles. The rest will have to be purchased.

I want the floor space to be 10'x10' or 10'x12' with a prudent overhang on the sides and end. The addition will be open for now - just basically a roof with supports - but I want the option to add walls later.

I built the shop building myself, but that was a long time ago, and I haven't built anything since. Any suggestions about the best way to build this addition will be appreciated - just broad strokes mainly. If I need details, I will ask. Thanks.
 
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Old 02-07-17, 02:45 PM
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Welcome to the forums! Do you plan on flooring the shed? One drawback with placing the lean-to on the end will be the potential for a low roof line at the end, especially with a 10' depth. You are in Henry County, so check with the permit department to see what they will require. Since the original building is on skids and blocks, you may be able to lower the floor and enhance the roof line. Making it a minimally angled roof (4:12) may help, too.

Post a picture or two of the building so we can get a grasp of what you are doing. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
 
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Old 02-08-17, 07:50 PM
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In Lamar County, not Henry. About 30 miles south of Henry.

No floor. Just dirt, then crusher run later. Main thing is to get the area under roof as soon as possible. As far as photo goes, I could do that, but there's not much to see. Just a 12 ft wide gable end with eves at about the 8 ft level and the roof peak going up another 2 ft or so. The whole thing is on skids and then blocks, or maybe 1.5 to 2 ft off the ground. A shed roof attached to the side just under the eves would, therefore, be about 10 ft off the ground at roof level.

If I make the roof 12 ft wide (long?) and slope to 8 ft, then that would be only 2 ft of slope, but I think I can live with that. And the ground to rafter ht on the outer end would be about 7 ft, and I can probably live with that.
 
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Old 02-09-17, 04:11 AM
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Since you are lowering the flooring to a gravel bed, I think your plan will work. What type roofing are you planning? I would recommend a metal roof if possible. Better water/snow handling and it will last longer. I have two built on my barn in Young Harris roofed with metal and they work great to store my tractor and other implements that I want to keep semi out of the weather. One also serves as an outdoor type work area when needed. I do have to watch my head when driving the tractor under, but that's minor.
 
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Old 02-09-17, 09:13 AM
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Upon risk of showing the depth of my ignorance, here's what I'm thinking:
4x4 posts on outside corners
2x8 between posts to rest rafters upon at outside end
2x4x?' corner braces from posts to 2x8 (or 3rd 4x4 in center of span)
2x6 ledger screwed to shop wall to hold rafters at that end
2x6x12' (2x8x12' ?) rafters on 24" centers
2x4 purlins laid flat on rafters on 16" centers
metal roofing of some kind, not yet decided

I have some questions, but let's start here.
 
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Old 02-09-17, 03:40 PM
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1) Use 4x4's on the corners, but pour a footer to set the posts on and use post bases embedded in the concrete or drilled into the cured concrete. This will keep the posts from rotting and sinking.
2) 2x8 will span the 12', but I like to double the lumber for weight purposes. Since you are planning on 4x4's, you will need to bolt them on either side of the 4x4 using 1/2" carriage bolts 8" long.
3) The third 4x4 will be in the way..........mine is. Use 2x4 bracing in both directions once you get your band installed which you will attach to the ledger on the barn.
4) 2x6 ledger will be fine
5) 2x8 rafters, but set them at 16"oc. It is a minor cost difference but will handle the weight better.
6) I would slat across the entire 12' roof with 1x4's spaced every 24" extending the slat 1' past the last rafter. You could use two 8' slats and cut the ends to match.
7) Steel roofing would be best, screwed on the flat with washered screws.
 
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Old 02-10-17, 07:57 AM
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Just lost my reply with a "Token Expired" error. No way to recover. Here's a shorter version:

2) 2x8 will span the 12', but I like to double the lumber for weight purposes. Since you are planning on 4x4's, you will need to bolt them on either side of the 4x4 using 1/2" carriage bolts 8" long.
Then, would the rafters be resting on 1 support, or both?

3) The third 4x4 will be in the way..........mine is. Use 2x4 bracing in both directions once you get your band installed which you will attach to the ledger on the barn.
Band?

6) I would slat across the entire 12' roof with 1x4's spaced every 24" extending the slat 1' past the last rafter. You could use two 8' slats and cut the ends to match.
If the shed roof is to be no wider than the width of the shop side, then the support framing, and possible later enclosure, would be 10' wide - maybe 10' wide by 11' long. That's probably okay.

Here's a rookie question: If the rafter spacing doesn't come out to an even number of 16" spaces, then how do you handle that?
 
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Old 02-10-17, 08:26 AM
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There should be a little yellow shadow box that comes up in the reply box that states 'restore content' [or something like that] and clicking that should have brought back your unposted reply.

With a metal roof and strapping it doesn't matter so much how the rafter spacing comes out, that is more of a concern when using plywood or lumber that isn't long enough for the span.
 
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