Add weight to make garage door stay up?

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Old 02-09-17, 11:23 AM
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Add weight to make garage door stay up?

Had a technician out today ($19.95 tune-up special).

He first told me the garage door was bouncing as it went up and down so it needed two support beams added to the door ($100 ea). He also recommended I get new rollers because mine were the old metal on metal).

I went with the new rollers but not the support beams.

A few minutes later he took me out to show me the garage door would not stay all the way up when the opener was unhooked. He said it was because whoever replaced the torsion springs used the wrong size. They were made for a heavier door.

Note: It stayed up fine when the power went out a couple times after the new spring was installed.

He said if I added the support beams, that would fix the problem. It would add weight to the door and make it stay up.

I asked if they could just adjust it and he said no because the spring was too heavy duty.

1. Would adding two aluminum beams help it to stay up?

2. Is that something an adjustment should fix?

Thanks.
 
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Old 02-09-17, 11:33 AM
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Welcome to the DIY forum!

That $19.95 coupon special didn't even pay the tech to drive to your house, let alone actually get out of the truck. These coupon gimmicks are ALWAYS done in the hopes that they can sell you something, at a large mark-up, that you don't need.

If the door was properly balanced BEFORE the tech started to monkey with it then the springs were most likely okay. Changing the wheels/rollers would not change the balance of the door.

I can't address the necessity (or not) of the additional braces.
 
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Old 02-09-17, 11:46 AM
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Thanks. They actually sent 3 guys.

Could adding weight to the door make it stay up?
 
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Old 02-09-17, 11:59 AM
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Could adding weight to the door make it stay up?
In a single word, no.

When they changed the rollers they may have first unwound the spring to relieve the tension on the lowermost hinge bracket. If they did not re-tension the spring properly it (the spring) would not do its job to help lift and hold the door. Adding MORE weight to the door would make the problem worse, not better.

The spring should be adjusted so that a person of normal strength should be able to open it from closed or close it from open with no strain. When the electric operator is disconnected and the door midway between open and closed it should stay in that position without moving.
 
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Old 02-09-17, 12:00 PM
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Sounds to me like those 3 guys know nothing about doors but are great at bs and trying to sell parts.
 
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Old 02-09-17, 12:40 PM
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"Sounds to me like those 3 guys know nothing about doors but are great at bs and trying to sell parts. "

Or maybe they do know something about doors but are great at bs and trying to sell parts.

There are some door pros that post here. Provide some particulars about your door set up and they can probably help.
 
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Old 02-09-17, 12:56 PM
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LOL, true!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old 02-09-17, 04:04 PM
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I should have mentioned they called me back out and showed me the door wouldn't stay all the way up before they put the new rollers in.

Door is approximately 192 x 63. I added a few pics of the door and the spring. Two of the pics show the door as high up as it will stay. When you push it all the way up it comes back down to there.

Thanks guys!
 
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Old 02-09-17, 04:45 PM
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I see a bent panel (pic 4) but other than that, there is no reason they couldn't adjust that torsion spring for you. (That is what will keep the door up.)
 
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Old 02-09-17, 05:12 PM
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If the spring is too beefy the door will not stay CLOSED and has nothing to do with it staying open. Springs just offset the weight of the door, too much tension and the door wants to open instead of close. Not enough tension and the door will drop when released from the cradle.

I made he mistake of buying the wrong size spring once when replacing a broken one. I bought a blue spring as that was the color of the one that was broken. I replaced both springs, went to test the door without opener. Pulled the door closed and all by itself went all the way back up. I found that the blue I bought should have been LIGHT Blue. The springs were designed for a heavier door.

Cross supports would have gained you nothing other than a lighter bank account.
 
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Old 02-09-17, 06:59 PM
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Bottom line - you got what you paid for. I strongly urge you to contact a "real" garage door repair/replacement firm. It will cost you more but they have the tools, expertise, and insurance to properly re set the tension springs.
 
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Old 02-09-17, 07:38 PM
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Thanks guys,

I'll call Overhead Door and start over. Live and learn.
 
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Old 02-10-17, 05:06 AM
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Hi Tim, you not only learned a bit about high pressure sales you found a source of support that will pay benefits for many years. I contribute in a narrow field of my specialty but read, ask questions, and learn on many topics here.

As for the deceptive advice, unfortunately it happens all too often. Practice your response "no", "no", and "no". One of the benefits of getting old is I can look them right in the eye and ask, what part of NO don't you understand. It feels good.

Bud
 
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Old 02-17-17, 10:49 AM
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maybe wrong springs?

IF in fact the springs were wrong and the door was "hot" coming off the ground and dead at top, the door can never be properly balanced. Adding tension may get the door to stay up all the way but will make the problem of the door wanting to fly off the ground much worse. Adding 2 struts could have put the door in a weight range suitable for the springs to balance the door properly. I doubt it though. Adding weight to a door because the springs installed are for a heavier door is not the proper way to fix a door. Ideally, you need to get the correct springs installed. Now if your sections are cracked or sagging, and if after adding the 2 struts the door would balance properly, that may be the way to go. But only if you need the struts and they would guarantee the door would balance out on your current springs.
 
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