Garage door extension spring identification

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Old 01-29-18, 09:58 AM
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Question Garage door extension spring identification

I have an overhead roll-up garage door 7' high x 14' wide that has extension springs that are too strong and causing the opener to not be able to close the door. I have to unlatch the door from the opener and it is very hard to close, it will fly back up. The springs are old and have no identifying marks or color code to indicate their capacity (0.25" dia. wire, 2.25" inside dia. coil, 26" long coil, with clipped ends). I need to know what weight they are intended to carry so that I have a starting point from which to choose a weaker spring. Any experts out there?
 
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Old 01-29-18, 04:05 PM
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You need the weight and height of the door to get the correct extension springs. With a door 14 feet wide, I would use two analog scales placed at 1/3 and 2/3 of the width to measure the weight. With the door in the up position, release the springs and lower the door onto the scales. CAUTION!!! THIS IS AT LEAST A 2-3 PERSON TASK. Use shims on one of the scales if needed to insure the gap between the floor and the bottom of the door is a constant across the width. Add the reading of each scale to arrive at the weight rating needed for each of the 2 springs (if the readings add up to 200 pounds, you need two 200 pound springs for a 7 foot high door). Also, since the springs stretch 3.5 feet between open and closed, I would use 28-30 inch springs.
 
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Old 01-29-18, 05:26 PM
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To get a true weight of the door itself, it needs to be relieved of the spring tension. Springs are released when the door is in the up position. Then, with the help of a friend, lower the door down to find its weight.

Possible that the existing springs are installed incorrectly and just need to be loosened?
 
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Old 01-30-18, 09:19 AM
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Thanks guys for the responses. I definitely agree that I have to weigh the door as described once I find two analog scales. I agree that longer springs make sense itís just that when I look at whatís available at the hardware store I only see choices that are about half the diameter than what I currently have. Also regarding adjustment I tried to reposition where the cable connects back to the frame at the S hook but the springs were hanging down below the track and I thought that didnít look right, so I undid the cable clamps to shorten the cable (thinking that it would just result in the same tension, but stupidly did it anyway) however then the pulley at the cable end would run into the S hook before the door would close. At the moment, I canít put it back because one cable is half broken where it was previously connected at the S hook. Itís a 3/16 dia. cable and they only have 1/8Ē dia at my local hardware store. So my search is on for new cables and two scales. I guess my afternoon project may take a few weeks! Anyway, for the back-storyÖ we bought the house 7 years ago and it worked kinda OK although it was very noisy and would occasionally take a few tries for the opener to close the door. I had noticed that on one side the stationary pulley and bracket was installed crooked where it bolted to the wall and the track did not look straight. So I plumbed the bracket and replaced the pulley and straightened the track thinking all would be well. Then I read about how the door should be balanced and not fly up, hence my current mission. Also the previous owner had loaded the tracks with grease which is now more like glue, so thatís going to take a while to get clean.
 
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Old 02-05-18, 10:11 AM
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UPDATE: The garage door weighs in at 216 lbs. All the springs available at Home Depot were the same approx 1.5" diameter x 25" long with max. extension of 67" (allows travel of 42", half the door height) and in weight ratings that vary from 90 lbs to 180 lbs. I ended up going with two 110 lb springs on each side of the door. After some customization to accommodate the dual springs and lots of cleaning and adjusting it is finally working as it should.
 
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