GE Gas Oven not maintaining temperature
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GE Gas Oven not maintaining temperature
I was going to post new info on an old thread but the system recommended opening a new thread.
I have a GE JGBP29SEK3SS (which is also likely a Kenmore model). It was not maintaining temperature. It would preheat to the correct temperature then drop over time. While it dropped you could see the element igniting and turning off within a few seconds. My assumption is than a defect in the electronics was not allowing the gas to stay lit long enough to maintain temperature.
I replaced the temperature sensor because it is cheap and easy to get to. The behavior did not change. At that point I became discouraged because the old post said the next part to try is the electronic control board which the poster said costs $250. In fact, Amazon sells the "WB27K10354 Oven Control Board" for $60.
The only tricky things about replacing the board are 1) carefully separating the front label plate from the old control board and 2) making sure you reattach the wires to the correct tabs since the locations have moved slightly on the replacement board. Fortunately the tabs are well-labeled on both boards. All is accessible by removing four hex-head sheet metal screws on the back.
I ended up using a black sharpie to black out the two places where the black vinyl separated from the control board label plate. If I was doing it again I'd also buy a new label plate.
After replacing the control board the actual temperature was off by 20 degrees but fortunately the board has TrueTemp which allows you to program in an offset (Push Bake & Broil for 5 seconds ...)
I have a GE JGBP29SEK3SS (which is also likely a Kenmore model). It was not maintaining temperature. It would preheat to the correct temperature then drop over time. While it dropped you could see the element igniting and turning off within a few seconds. My assumption is than a defect in the electronics was not allowing the gas to stay lit long enough to maintain temperature.
I replaced the temperature sensor because it is cheap and easy to get to. The behavior did not change. At that point I became discouraged because the old post said the next part to try is the electronic control board which the poster said costs $250. In fact, Amazon sells the "WB27K10354 Oven Control Board" for $60.
The only tricky things about replacing the board are 1) carefully separating the front label plate from the old control board and 2) making sure you reattach the wires to the correct tabs since the locations have moved slightly on the replacement board. Fortunately the tabs are well-labeled on both boards. All is accessible by removing four hex-head sheet metal screws on the back.
I ended up using a black sharpie to black out the two places where the black vinyl separated from the control board label plate. If I was doing it again I'd also buy a new label plate.
After replacing the control board the actual temperature was off by 20 degrees but fortunately the board has TrueTemp which allows you to program in an offset (Push Bake & Broil for 5 seconds ...)
#2
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Pretty simple circuit.... not much to check. Electronic control, igniter and gas safety valve. I'll monitor the AC voltage coming out of the control. That tells me if the full voltage is there and when the burner should be lit.
Pretty simple circuit.... not much to check. Electronic control, igniter and gas safety valve. I'll monitor the AC voltage coming out of the control. That tells me if the full voltage is there and when the burner should be lit.