GE Monogram cooktop wont stop clicking

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Old 06-22-13, 06:44 PM
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GE Monogram cooktop wont stop clicking

This is a 5 burner cooktop. 7 years old. When one of the burners is lit (top left), the burner lights up but the clicking does not stop. This does not happen with the other 4 burners.

I can see the spark going off on all igniters, including the one that causes the non stop clicking.

Since there is a spark and the burner does fire up, I assume the igniter itself and the connection to it is fine. I removed the burner elements and cleaned all surfaces but it did not help. The wire to the igniter is also intact.

I can not access the rotary flame control switch as I would need to lift the whole cooktop off to get to it.

Any ideas of what might be happening in my cooktop?
 
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Old 06-23-13, 01:00 AM
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Welcome to the forums fuzzy.

There is a switch that is on the adjustment shaft for that burner. It would appear that the switch is defective.

If you leave your exact model number we can help further.
 
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Old 06-23-13, 08:18 AM
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Hello fuzzylogic. Welcome to my Gas Appliances topic & our Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

One additional aspect needs to be known. The condition you described happens to that one burner. Question then is the same also happen when any other burner is turned on? Intent is to help determine if it is just that one burner spark switch or any other or all of them.

Kindly include all the details, as it pertains to the question above and that info asked by PJ as well. Thanks.

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Old 11-03-13, 05:01 PM
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I found this thread and thought maybe you can help me out, I have a GE Monogram drop in cook-Top model # ZGU385L, this use to be a N model but I renovated my kitchen and brought this cook-top up north with me to use in our vacation place in NH and changed the orifices over to propane (they come with the cook-top). Everything works fine the install was good and it has been working properly for 3 months now. For the past couple weeks I have had an issue with the cook-top its a 36 5 burner cook-top. The only different burner is the one in the very center which is larger than the rest. All the burners work correctly with the exception of the back right burner, it turns on and lights the burner but however the igniter continues to keep clicking making all the others click as well. This is the only burner it happens to. In researching I came across some info that said use a hair dryer in the event some switch under the knob got wet, (no luck) another post said wait a few days and it should be ok so I tried that (no luck) another post said make sure the flame is on the igniter, it is and I tried cleaning it (no luck) to completely rule out the igniter I swapped it out with another burner, the problem still remained with the different igniter and the one I swapped it to worked fine leading me to believe that it has nothing to do with the igniter at all. Can someone tell me how does this unit identify that the flames are lit and it can stop igniting the burners? Also do I need to take the cook-top out of the cavity to get inside of it? As it does not seem like you can do much other than remove the grates and burners to change out igniters. I am assuming there has to be some type of sensor that is transmitted through the igniter wire maybe? to tell the unit to stop igniting? Anyway any help would be helpful or diagram to help me figure whats going on with the cook-top.

Thanks

Kevin
 
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Old 11-03-13, 05:46 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

There is a switch on every burner control. When you turn any burner on....they all spark. There is only one spark module. So if any switch is defective it will keep the spark module active. The spark module does not know the burner is lit.... by turning the valve past "ignite" shuts off the module.

At one point you could change a switch singly. Now it looks like they are all replaced at one time. The part number for the kit is WB18T10381. You can find them in the link below or check with your local appliance parts reseller for help.

GE WB18T10381 Spark Switch Assembly - Appliance Parts Pros
 
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Old 07-04-14, 12:58 PM
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I have the same problem and have determined it is because the flame that is supposed to shoot down to the top of the igniter when it is lit, thus turning it off, only does so on low, not high, heat settings. I'm still trying to figure it out, but no luck so far. Yes, I, like you, have swapped assemblies but the same burner keeps malfunctioning.
 

Last edited by rejiii; 07-04-14 at 01:01 PM. Reason: Clarification
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Old 07-04-14, 01:19 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

I need the make and model number for your range.

Did you read my reply to a previous member in post 5 ?
That post explains exactly how the igniter works. In most cases the spark unit doesn't know whether or not the flame is lit. You must manually turn the knob past the ignite point to shut the spark off.

We'll continue this thread when I know what stove you have.
 
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Old 09-04-14, 09:04 PM
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Hello, I'm having the same problem the model number is zgu375nsd3ss, the middle igniter will ignite and sometimes light the flame, sometimes not, and when lit the igniter will keep firing, it is only the center burner that does this, none of the other 4.

Thanks!
 
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Old 09-05-14, 07:14 AM
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Hello: gemonogram

Another most likely & possible cause is the burner flame does not impinge the spark electrode. The entire system works on electrical resistance. The burner flame must be in contact with the sparkers electrode in order to heat the spark electrode.

Look at how those that work look during ignition. Flame should be in contact with electrode. The one that does not stop sparking might not be. Likely because you said something to the effect of burner USUALLY lights but not always. Good indication the burner heads holes or slots might be slightly restricted. If so use a pin to clean them out.

All more well explained in the sticky note on the subject.

Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information, Fault Codes & Mfg's Web Site Links http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808

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Old 09-05-14, 01:35 PM
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Hello sharpadvice,

Thank you for responding. Ok, so not a plugged hole. The middle can take awhile to ignite but is the one that causes the igniters to continually fire even when it's already lit. Watching the sparks, I've noticed that the lower right one does not spark. And when lit with a lighter, also the igniter keeps going off. Any ideas?

Thanks!
 
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Old 07-15-15, 09:01 AM
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This looks like a great web site. Sorry to have missed it until now. After studying the previous posts, I am uncertain that the solution to my problem is in there. So

I have a GE Monogram gas range, Model ZDP36N6H2SS, about 8 years old. (Wife loves it) All six burners light correctly. All six igniters fire simultaneously. The problems I am about to describe are intermittent: The clicking continues after a burner or several are lit. Occasionally, the clicking begins on its own without any prior attempt to light a burner; the range is just sitting there in its quiescent state, and the clicking begins. There are two loudness levels to the clicking. One is clearly evident even to me with poor hearing. This louder clicking pattern is regular with a period of about one second. The second, much quieter, clicking my wife hears well but I do not. This quieter clicking pattern is irregular. I have examined all six burner rings, and they are clear. There has been no physical damage to the igniters.

I look forward eagerly to your solution. You can help save my marriage.
 
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Old 07-15-15, 09:19 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

I will probably move this to it's own thread tonight.

Your range uses a re-ignition module which is different than the modules used in the ranges in this thread.

One or more of your burners will relight if the flame goes out.... is that correct ?
 
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Old 07-15-15, 09:38 AM
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Yes. I just tested that on one of the burners. Did not know of that feature. Cool. (hot, actually)
 
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Old 07-16-15, 12:04 AM
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Ok.... so in your case..... if you hear sparking when there shouldn't be it's usually the spark module.... you'll need to change the spark module.

The OEM part is WB13K10031. You can search using that part number for an online store or check with your local appliance parts retailer.

In the link below is the location of your module. Part 320 in the list.
MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY Diagram & Parts List for ZDP36N6H2SS-Sears Parts Direct

This link is for the same part and there's a replacement video too.
GE WB13K10031 Spark Module (6PT) - Appliance Parts Pros
 
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Old 07-16-15, 08:12 AM
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Thank you, PJmax, for being so quick. I'm after it.
 
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Old 07-18-15, 09:36 AM
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I replaced the spark module, but the continuous clicking still goes on at about once per second. The igniters are not sparking during the clicking, although they do respond correctly to the burner knobs. The clicking is a quieter sound than sparking. Now what? I'm back in the dog house.
 
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Old 07-18-15, 09:50 AM
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Try unplugging the power wires from the spark module and see if the noise is still present.
 
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Old 07-18-15, 10:27 AM
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The range is completely back together. I am reluctant to spend the time to take it apart again only to "try this" or "try that". It sounds like my problem does not point to a definite solution. Do you agree? Is it time to call a repairman?
Thank you.
 
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Old 07-18-15, 11:03 AM
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Calling a repairman is completely up to you.

Myself, as a repairman, would replace the module and turn the range back on before putting it all back together. If the noise, and I'm not calling it a spark at this time, is heard then I would proceed further. I would disconnect the AC power to the module to see if that stopped the noise. If it didn't then I would look further.
 
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Old 07-18-15, 11:20 AM
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I'm afraid I have risen to my level of competence. Time to call. Thank you, Pete.
 
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Old 07-18-15, 11:43 AM
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No problem. Please keep me posted with the outcome or stop back if you have any further questions.
 
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Old 01-15-17, 02:23 PM
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I can see by the page views that this is a common GE problem. This thread has become to long so feel free to start a new one and reference this one. This thread will remain in our searchable archives for future reference.
 
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