Whirlpool Gas Dryer - No Heat Issue!


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Old 03-17-18, 12:52 PM
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Whirlpool Gas Dryer - No Heat Issue!

A couple of months back this site was super helpful in getting my ancient Maytag washer resurrected. So naturally, the ancient friend, the Dryer is now broken as well.

I think I have it mostly figured out. When we put it in timed mode, high heat and hit start, there is no glow or flame in the peep hole. If I have figured this correctly, the problem should be with the fuses between the timer and the thermal sensor or thermistor.

We tried using a multimeter (which I am not very schooled at using, and there ensued great debate between me and the wife on how we should be using it, lol, but I digress). When I checked the timer it had resistance (is that right?), a number comes up other than 1. We moved down the line to a couple of other sensors including the high limit thermostat and thermal cut-off. I did not pull the points off as they were stubborn, but when we held the multimeter to them they gave us a number other than 1.

When I moved down to the thermal fuse and thermistor, I removed both fuses and tested and nothing changes just stays 1 on the meter. So I am thinking both of these are bad, but is this normal for both to have gone at the same time?

Also, I am wondering if I should be checking anything else on this? A year or two ago I had to replace the valve coils when the dryer started having issues. I'm thinking those should be good, but should I worry about any other sensors in the front at all, or just replace what I found so far?

Many thanks for any tips and suggestion. If anyone has a good link or resource on how to use a multimeter I would also be appreciative! :-)

EDIT: My model dryer: WGD5900SW0
 

Last edited by Woelfe; 03-17-18 at 12:53 PM. Reason: Added model number
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Old 03-17-18, 01:09 PM
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Has the duct been cleaned recently ? It's critical that the duct and discharge areas of the dryer not be clogged with lint reducing the airflow.

In the following link.... click on "bulkhead parts". There are three items you need to check....
1) thermal fuse - pictorial #7
2) hi limit - pictorial #16
3) hi limit - pictorial #17.

Put you meter in low ohms.... Rx1... or auto mode. When you touch the leads.... you should get a reading close to 0 ohms. This is indicating a short. When you check those three parts.... you should get very near the same 0 ohm reading.

sears parts direct/WGD5900SW0/1198/0151200.html
 
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Old 03-17-18, 01:45 PM
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Hello Pete!

This is the multimeter I have:
southwire-10030s-manual-ranging-multimeter
Name:  meter.jpg
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I'm not exactly sure what low ohms is, or RX1, but RX1 and auto do not seem to be options on my dial. I've been using the 200 setting at the bottom of the dial with the horseshoe symbol, and the setting just to its right, I think that is continuity?

I'm a pretty big noob with using this thing, like I said.

Also, when you say touch the leads, do you mean the wires that connect the sensor/fuses or the sensor/fuse itself? Should I pull the wires off? I already removed part 7 (thermal fuse).

Sorry for any dumb questions. This sort of stuff is new to me.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 03-17-18 at 02:07 PM. Reason: added pic from link
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Old 03-17-18, 01:52 PM
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As far as the duct, it doesn't appear to be too clogged, which I heard somewhere may cause the fuses to blow. I plan on cleaning everything out really well before reassembling it.
 
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Old 03-17-18, 01:58 PM
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I added a labeled picture to your post. The red arrow points to 200 ohm which is your Rx1 or low scale. You can also use the yellow arrow setting as this is low ohms with the addition of an audible sounder. Your devices should sound that audible to be ok.
 
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Old 03-17-18, 02:06 PM
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Awesome, thank you. Those are the two settings I have been testing on. I just checked parts 15 & 16 based on the diagram. Both of these read close to zero (0.3) on the 200 setting. I did not pull the wires off the points though, just touched the multimeter to the points on each.

The thermal fuse #7 and #9 thermistor still just gives a 1 on matter what setting it is on.
 
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Old 03-17-18, 02:16 PM
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That would indicate the thermal fuse is opened and needs replacement.
That's part # WP3390719

The thermistor would need to be checked on the 20k ohm scale.
Those usually don't go bad.
 
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Old 03-17-18, 02:24 PM
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Ok, when I moved it to 20K and tested the thermistor it gave a reading of 9.89. Thought it may be odd to have two things both go at once. I am glad I asked.

Now off to find a thermal fuse.

Thank you for the help and your patience.
 
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Old 03-17-18, 03:49 PM
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Replace the thermal fuse, rarely does the thermistor go bad. There is a check for it on tech sheet under the console. Be sure to clean out the vent tube to the outside or you will have poor operation (long dry times) and repeated parts going out.
 
 

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