Whirlpool Gold Dryer Motor


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Old 04-06-19, 03:30 PM
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Whirlpool Gold Dryer Motor

My wife has a 2012 Whirllpool Gold Gas Dryer. She did two loads and was ready to start on a third when she hit the start button, the dryer would not run, I checked, thinking it might be a broken belt, but I cannot hear a motor when I hit the button to start it. I wanted to check with you guys before I took the cabinet apart. All the lights for the controls on the control panel light up, and I can adjust and change any of the settings, it just won't start up. Is there an internal fuse for the motor I can get to easily? I have had the cabinet apart years ago, and still have the instructions to do that. She has given me tomorrow to fix it, or she calls ACE appliance....
 
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Old 04-06-19, 04:17 PM
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When a dryer just quits it is usually a thermal fuse. Post model# and can help better. Reason fuse blows is a clogged vent to the outside.
 
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Old 04-06-19, 06:07 PM
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Whirlpool Dryer Motor

Whirlpool model # GGW9868KQ5 should be a 2012 model. Dryer belt is fine, control tower is functional. Motor turns by hand. Fuse panel in wall is fine. I cleaned the vents around Christmas, and they are still clear. Something failed, but what, and where?
 
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Old 04-06-19, 06:13 PM
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Whirlpool Dryer Motor

There appears to be a circular fuse in the exhaust pipe right behind the lower panel If I test it with an Ohm meter, what am i looking for. Normally closed and now stuck open?
 
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Old 04-06-19, 11:05 PM
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All those round "safety" sensors should check as closed/shorted. If you find one open.... it's bad.

Use your tech sheet as a service aid. You said you located it back in this thread.
Whirlpool-gold-gas-dryer-shuts-off-after-minute.

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Disconnect the plug at the gas valves and burner so you can troubleshoot the motor circuit. You should see 120v on the blue and white wires. The "hot" power passes thru the belt switch. Make sure you have 120v on both sides of that switch.


Tech sheet at scribd
 
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Old 04-07-19, 05:52 AM
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In front behind lower panel is the thermal fuse, on the chute from motor there is the fuse, It should show closed with your meter. If open it's bad. Part # 59 under bulkhead parts.
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/mod...5-dryers-parts
 
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Old 04-07-19, 09:12 AM
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Thanks guys! If it isnt that easy to get to thermal fuse, Ace appliance is going to get the call. I am too spaced out from doing tax returns to deal with hot circuits in a small space lol
 
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Old 04-07-19, 10:04 AM
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I am getting a reading of an open circuit with my analog ohm meter at RX1 across the legs of the thermal fuse behind the front panel. any problems if hook a jumper over that fuse and see of the motor runs?
 
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Old 04-07-19, 12:51 PM
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You can temporarily jump it for testing purposes only.
 
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Old 04-07-19, 01:01 PM
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Much easier to work on if you take lint screen chute off.
 
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Old 04-07-19, 01:15 PM
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When looking at the wiring diagram.... the thermal limiter only disables the heat..... not the motor.
 
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Old 04-07-19, 03:09 PM
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Whilpool dryer motor

Jumping the fuse didnt help. Called Ace, Just left. (they have a slick meter that reads the whole system without having to take the sides and top off. He said the signal to start the motor was not being generated at the control board, and they could not get the board from the manufacturer for this unit. Left me with a dead dryer and an unhappy wife....
 
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Old 04-07-19, 04:47 PM
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The part that is not available is the front control panel(buttons/display). The main control board is typically what would cause your problem and is available. That's the reason for the tech sheet. It helps to localize the problem.

Based on control board failures...... yours may be a visible defect. As a tech I would remove the control board and check it for burned/defective solder connections..... especially around the two control relays.
The control board is OEM # 8566150. Searspartsdirect.com/part-number/8566150/0026/110.

You can shop around for the best price, take a crapshoot and buy it or get it from one of the online biggies for a few dollars more that will take it back if it's not the problem.

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Old 04-10-19, 07:39 AM
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Whirlpool Dryer

Well Pete, more examination of the process determined that the Dryer was not 7 years old, it is more like 13. I found a whirlpool recommended supplier for the board for 129.00 dollars. but after determining the age of it, we decided to just replace the dryer. Its on its way, but I want to replace the gas line from the wall to the dryer and got a flexible one from the dealer. There is a gas valve that looks like a water faucet, probably a gas code gate valve (1963 vintage, round circular Grip) that probably hasn't been turned off for a decade. Can I safely treat this valve with some master blaster penetrant or should I just go ahead and try to turn it cold?
 
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Old 04-10-19, 11:27 AM
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I was going to use a torch on it, but thought I might want to live one more year. The valve closed Ok without any penetrant. I could use the torch to replace a nipple that will not accept a flared fitting on the new line but I won't do that either. Vice Grips and a cheater bar.
 
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Old 04-10-19, 06:22 PM
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When I come across a questionable..... aka old...... gas shutoff valve..... I usually replace them.
 
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Old 04-10-19, 06:53 PM
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I would but Grandma is putting too much pressure on me to get this laundry room operational. I successfully removed the nipple and have everything clean. New Dryer comes in tomorrow. Thanks for your help!
 
 

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