Nordyne furnace: inducer on, igniter heats, but no ignition
#1
02-08-16, 11:05 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 5
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Nordyne furnace: inducer on, igniter heats, but no ignition
Model G6RC 120c-20c
Thermal zone (nordyne)
The furnace will occasionally blink for the pressure switch stuck closed, but mostly displays normal.
Tried tapping on the gas valve with no luck. Replaced pressure switch and checked for blockages in tubes. This happened right after I replaced the upper limit switch.
Cleaned the flame sensor, and I'm having a hard time troubleshooting.
Thermal zone (nordyne)
The furnace will occasionally blink for the pressure switch stuck closed, but mostly displays normal.
Tried tapping on the gas valve with no luck. Replaced pressure switch and checked for blockages in tubes. This happened right after I replaced the upper limit switch.
Cleaned the flame sensor, and I'm having a hard time troubleshooting.
#3
02-09-16, 12:39 AM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums.
You'll need to check for 24vac from the control board to operate the gas valve. The igniter preheats for 30 seconds.... then 24vac is applied to the gas valve..... 5 seconds later the igniter turns off. If you don't get the 24v at the appropriate time then the control board could be defective.
This is a download link to your manual. Towards the end is the order of heating and diagnostics.
Download Nordyne G6RC 90+ Installation Instructions Manual
You'll need to check for 24vac from the control board to operate the gas valve. The igniter preheats for 30 seconds.... then 24vac is applied to the gas valve..... 5 seconds later the igniter turns off. If you don't get the 24v at the appropriate time then the control board could be defective.
This is a download link to your manual. Towards the end is the order of heating and diagnostics.
Download Nordyne G6RC 90+ Installation Instructions Manual
#4
02-09-16, 12:51 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 5
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Thank you PJmax,
I actually just finished swapping the control board and it made no difference. I'll be breaking out the multimeter tomorrow to make sure all the wires are complete. I did not have the manual til this point, so I greatly appreciate it.
I actually just finished swapping the control board and it made no difference. I'll be breaking out the multimeter tomorrow to make sure all the wires are complete. I did not have the manual til this point, so I greatly appreciate it.
#5
02-09-16, 05:19 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 5,499
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Go back to basics:
Take the cover off the burner compartment of the furnace.
Carefully observe the SEQUENCE of events which occurs.
Post that sequence, in order and in detail, here.
Take the cover off the burner compartment of the furnace.
Carefully observe the SEQUENCE of events which occurs.
Post that sequence, in order and in detail, here.
#6
02-09-16, 06:58 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 5
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
I fixed it,
I went back through and replaced all the hoses, checked all the wires for continuity, reseated all the connections, then cycled the whole system off and back on. Works like she's brand new now.
I went back through and replaced all the hoses, checked all the wires for continuity, reseated all the connections, then cycled the whole system off and back on. Works like she's brand new now.
#7
02-09-16, 07:20 PM
Group Moderator
Ok.... then it looks like you had a wiring issue from the board to the gas valve. That is fairly common.
That nine pin plug and jack are particularly prone to corrosion as they are only steel pins. If you have further problems.... check that area first. A small bit of contact cleaner sprayed on the plug... and putting the plug into the board will clean it.
That nine pin plug and jack are particularly prone to corrosion as they are only steel pins. If you have further problems.... check that area first. A small bit of contact cleaner sprayed on the plug... and putting the plug into the board will clean it.
#8
02-12-16, 10:38 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 5
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
It kicked off again today and I found the underlying issue. My blower motor is biting the dust. I undid the panel and watched it while I held down the switch. When it tried to kick on from a dead stop it would barely move. I spun it with my hand and it kicked on fully. Tried again and the same thing. Checked the power coming in and it was fine so now I have a new motor. On the way.
#9
02-13-16, 11:03 AM
Group Moderator
It could also be a defective capacitor. Hopefully you ordered a new capacitor for your new motor.
#10
02-14-16, 03:25 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 5,499
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
>
The purpose of the capacitor is to give the motor extra torque to get started. Then the capacitor is switched out of the circuit altogether.
So replacing just the capacitor is worth a try, especially since the cap is cheap and easy to replace.
The purpose of the capacitor is to give the motor extra torque to get started. Then the capacitor is switched out of the circuit altogether.
So replacing just the capacitor is worth a try, especially since the cap is cheap and easy to replace.
