No heat from Dayton 3E286 gas furnace


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Old 01-30-17, 07:27 AM
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No heat from Dayton 3E286 gas furnace

Hi,
My furnace was working until couple of days ago and all of sudden it is not working. I hear humming sound from Blower and Blower is not running. Furnace is not fired either.

Could this because of Capacitor not working ?

I checked and I have 370V 5uf 60Hz Capacitor. I am hoping changing capacitor will fix issue, if not what else I should look for ?

Furnace model is: Dayton 3L286 Gas 80K BTU.
 
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Old 01-30-17, 07:42 AM
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Any chance that's an EL286? or SL?

When the thermostat calls for heat, first thing that should happen is the small inducer blower (connected to the exhaust venting) should start up. Does that motor run? Is the furnace igniting at all? You are probably in lock out mode, so you may need to cycle power to the furnace at the service switch or breaker to do any further testing.
 
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Old 01-30-17, 08:02 AM
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@CarbideTipped,
I checked and Model is Dayton 3L286 with automatic pilot control.

I have cycled power several times and same problem. Blower does not come on and there is a humming sound from blower every time, I am cycling the power and sound stays on. Since coming on blower is first step of Sequence of Operation for Furnace, no pilot or anything else is on because gas valve will not get 24V.
 
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Old 01-30-17, 08:49 AM
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Just to be clear, when you say blower is humming, you are talking about the inducer blower, the small blower attached to the exhaust vent, *not* the main blower that circulates the warm air through the ductwork, correct?

I'm not having any luck finding service info for that make and model, so I'm not sure what type of inducer motor you have. Most are single speed shaded pole motors that do not have a start or run capacitor or a speed control board. But some do.

Is the capacitor you saw connected to this motor or to the main blower?

Do you have a multimeter so you can verify the inducer motor is getting 120VAC when it should be running?

How about posting a picture of the inducer:

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
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Old 01-30-17, 08:58 AM
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Blower what I am referring to is looks like link below. Right now I do not have access to furnace so I found similar picture. I am assuming it is main blower which blows hot air. Motor is behind shown fan which I am not able to access due to small space.

https://www.midwestapplianceparts.co...oducts_id=6742

it does have GE 21L3004 4Uf 370V 60 HZ capacitor next to blower I am referring to.

Yes, I do have multi meter I can test 120V coming in blower motor or not. Where do check that ? Next to capacitor ?
 
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Old 01-30-17, 09:09 AM
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The main blower is in the bottom of the furnace. It uses a capacitor.

The picture you linked to is a draft inducer blower and is on front of furnace near the burner.

On a call for heat.... the inducer would be the first one to start.
 
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Old 01-30-17, 10:46 AM
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My unit is horizontal in attic. So the way I have is on left furnace where igniter/gas control etc are there. In middle, Vent and on right, Inducer.
 
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Old 01-30-17, 11:03 AM
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The inducer should be beside the burner. So your still not being clear on what motor your speaking of.
It's either the blower motor or inducer motor
 
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Old 01-30-17, 11:17 AM
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I will do more research and come back, but besides this what else I should be checking if there is nothing running and I hear humming sound ? and no heat ?
 
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Old 01-30-17, 11:43 AM
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Probably your best bet at this point is to take pictures of what you have so we can be sure we are talking about the right parts to check. Also, check inside the burner compartment for the service information label and see if there is any additional make/model information on the label because I'm not finding any info at all using the model number you gave us. It may be because the furnace is made for Dayton by someone else (perhaps lennox) but usually at least some info shows up under the reseller brand and model.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
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Old 01-30-17, 02:13 PM
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I couldn't find that furnace listed in the Dayton product lists. Nothing even close to that model.
It seems Grainger is selling mostly Goodman's now.

If you had that furnace installed.... try contacting the installer for any product info.
If not.... you may have problems finding parts for it unless we can recognize it.

When you look at it..... you'll need to remove the main access door with the slots/louvers in it. This will be the burner door. After you remove that look for an ID tag on the side wall near the burner.
 
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Old 02-01-17, 05:55 PM
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Finally, I went back to my rental place and did more investigation and here is the update.

1) Correct Furnace Model is below. Photo attached.
Made by: Dayton
Model: 3E286
Serial Number: H90779709
MFG NO: G695407A

2) Seems there is no Inducer Motor. This furnace is Direct Vent Furnace. Not sure if that make sense or not but I looked everywhere I could not find Inducer Motor.

3) Actual humming noise is coming out due to lockout. I see ignition spark at Ignitor and but no fire. I could smell little gas after ignitor tries to fire since it tries to ignite but it shut off gas since no fire. Below is the video when I turn off (power off) furnace wait for min. or two and turn off furnace, I get what you see in this video link:

https://youtu.be/sQqVAK6xikE


i have full video of how furnace look like is below. It is horizontal furnace in attic with small covered area.

https://youtu.be/V6ZnFLuonSc

I believe some issue with ignitor but not sure what needs to be done next.
 
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Old 02-02-17, 10:47 AM
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Anyone can please help me with Spark but No Fire issue I am having.
 
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Old 02-02-17, 11:58 AM
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Pretty old furnace..... circa 1980

I have to tell you. I've never seen that type of furnace in an attic. What has me concerned is that the burner area has no protective cover and is so close to a combustible surface.

This is the first time I couldn't find any mention of a furnace anywhere. Based on the Dayton model and the manufacturers code.... I can't find a single listing.

Can you find a wiring diagram on the unit ?

I suspect the gas valve or the ignition module. The Fenwal module has been superseded twice.

This may be a tough repair online. You may need to contact your gas supplier. If you are like me your service is Public Service Electric and Gas. They have an excellent service department with well trained gas technicians and charge very fair prices.
 
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Old 02-02-17, 12:30 PM
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@Pete,
Thank you for your update. I have already joined NJNG services but it takes 15 days before it takes in effect. Burner area you saw open because I took video after removing it otherwise it is closed with cover. This is first time I am having issue with this furnace since I bought this property. I saw Gas Valve and Ignitor which was taken out previously so I am assuming it was changed on previous call may be year or two ago.

It is definitely looks unusual furnace without Inducer Motor, roll out switch and I could not see gas line coming to pilot not sure how it is ignited with three prong igniter. I am assuming, one prong is for spark, another is for thermocouple but not sure what is third one. it is connected with ignition control and I did not see any connection to gas valve to supply gas.

Looking at furnace itself it does not look too old like 30-40 years old. May be 15-20 year old. it is quite clean and burner looking almost new. Another thing I noticed is there is no Air Filter at furnace level. Air filter is located at actual vent in apartment. It took me 1 hour to find out where Air filter is. Filter are very clean too.

I did see wiring diagram on cover of blower motor. I will take a picture when I go there.
 
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Old 02-02-17, 12:54 PM
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I went back and looked at the video. This is a picture from it. I labeled the parts. There is no pilot here. This is a direct spark ignition. The spark fires and the gas valve opens for 6.8 seconds. If no flame is detected it closes the valve and stops the spark.

That's why you smell gas. This tells me your problem is the carryover or ignition holes in the burner. There would have to be small holes in the burner that directed gas directly at the spark for immediate ignition. They are most likely rust plugged.

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Old 02-02-17, 01:03 PM
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Pete,
Thank you for your insight on this issue. I am very familiar with Gas Boiler since i have learned a lot from different issue but this is first time I am dealing with Hot Air Furnace. I do love challenge and feel pride in fixing it obviously with safety.

You said Problem could be in "carryover" or "ignition holes" in the burner.

What is carryover and how do I find it ?. Also, where do I see ignition holes in burner ? Ignition hole will be bottom of where HV Ignitor ? or top of HV ignitor ?. Any video anywhere ?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 02-02-17, 01:14 PM
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There are always holes in a burner tube where the gas comes out. The ones on the top are for the burner itself. I can only visualize the holes in the side of your burner. I don't see them in the picture. I do see a black area on the burner and that could be what you are looking for.

I'd go up with a bright light, now with my cheater glasses and something to clean the holes. A metal bristle from a wire brush works good as well as the wire brush itself.
 
 

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