Payne gas Furnace Ignitor won't ignite.


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Old 10-22-17, 01:49 PM
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Payne gas Furnace Ignitor won't ignite.

I have a Payne gas furnace model number: pg8maa036070aaja. We bought guy it used and installed it this year, this summer I went into the basement to notice the ignitor was glowing while the ac was running and local ac guy advised us that the control panel was bad so we replaced it and that fixed it, now come winter we tried to turn on the furnace and it will not ignite, when we turn the thermostat on and demand for it to produce heat, the main blower turns on for 1 minute 45 seconds before shutting off, after it is on for 1 minute 30 seconds the exhaust fan turns on and continues to run for one minute while the main blower shuts off. Then the gas valve opens for 6 seconds and it all shuts off, it does this a couple times then stops. It throws the 34 code, I have tried replacing the ignitor and cleaning the flame detector but so far no luck. Do you know what to try?
 
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Old 10-22-17, 02:27 PM
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The call for heat produces a certain order of events that must be followed.
1) a call for heat starts the draft inducer.
2) after xx (+/-15) seconds the igniter starts to heat up.
3) after xx(+/-30) seconds the gas valve opens to start the burner.
4) after 6-8 seconds the gas valve closes and the igniter stops heating if no flame is proven.
5) the inducer remains running for post purge.

The process starts over and repeats three times before getting the lockout code. .
 
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Old 10-22-17, 05:00 PM
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Yes that's what I listed in the posting, trying to figure out why it's not igniting
 
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Old 10-22-17, 06:38 PM
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No.... it's not. You made no mention of the igniter. You said won't ignite.

Is the igniter heating up ?
Is the gas valve opening AFTER the igniter gets hot ?
Where is the process stopping ?
 
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Old 10-23-17, 03:32 PM
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The ignitor never gets warm or red to ignite. The gas turns on and the cycle is everything that it should be except that the ignitor never heats up.
 
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Old 10-23-17, 07:26 PM
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Ok.... so the igniter isn't working, It runs on 120VAC. That means you should measure 120vac on the two leads going to the igniter. I try to check it with the igniter plugged in as that supplies the control board with a load. If the 120v is not present during warmup...... you either have a board problem (I know it's new) or a mis-wiring problem. Most boards are replacements and upgrades from older boards and some wires get moved. Each replacement board comes with specific instructions based on the board it's replacing.

It is very possible that the igniter is cracked. It is not always easy to see. I have been known to crack an igniter during replacement. You can confirm the integrity of the igniter by unplugging it and checking the two pins for continuity.
 
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Old 10-24-17, 03:16 AM
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Thank you! I will try checking these tonight when I return back home, do you know what the ignitor should read for continuity?
 
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Old 10-24-17, 10:52 AM
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Somewhere between 40-90 ohms would be normal.
 
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Old 10-25-17, 06:02 PM
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The ignitor read at 49 ohms, when the furnace is on it reads around 3 volts until it tells it to provide power to the ignitor, then it jumps up to 5.48 volts
 
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Old 10-25-17, 06:10 PM
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Also with the control panel, when I changed it over I just swapped each wire over to the same location on the new board, do you think one of the wires might be in the wrong spot?
 
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Old 10-25-17, 07:51 PM
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Ok.... so not power to the igniter. If you can take and post a picture or two of the control board and wiring we could give it a once over. How-to-insert-pictures

I'm looking at the board diagram. Not sure which board you have but I see a new 2 pin connector for igniter and draft inducer. Along with that plug I'm seeing two wires that connect to the neutral connections.

hvac partners/docs/1009/public/0c/iik-325878-01.pdf
 
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Old 10-27-17, 09:27 AM
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I have attached the pictures, if I jump a wire across the two prong plug it will light the ignitor so I know the ignitor a working, just not getting the power
 
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Old 10-27-17, 09:31 PM
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Risky jumping like that. On the old style board that would have fried it.

When you jumped those two pins you supplied power to the igniter pin from the draft inducer pin. In the picture there are two relays. One powers the igniter and one powers the draft inducer. I'm not sure which is which. In your case the one that supplies the igniter is not working. That would mean defective board.

You could check the solder on the relays and the two pin plug.

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Old 10-28-17, 01:35 PM
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Thanks for the help! I'm really leaning towards it being a bad board as well, I have tried testing it and was wondering if the relays were bad since it's not getting the power through
 
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Old 11-18-17, 03:51 PM
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After a battle of getting the wrong control panel, we finally got the correct one and we have heat!! It was just the wrong control panel that we were sent before! Thanks for the help!!
 
 

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