Furnace failing ignition test


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Old 03-24-18, 01:23 PM
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Furnace failing ignition test

Hi,

So a few days ago my furnace hard locked out. We ran out of oil, no biggie we forgot. Got it filled today and tried starting it up and kept hard locking out. I opened up the hex nut at the fuel pump and heard some air bleed out, hoping that was the solution. I tried starting it up again and made sure i saw oil bleeding from the valve so I know I am getting oil, but it keeps hard locking out once it goes through its ignition test.

Any possible things I'm missing? I already took apart the unit and cleaned the cad cell, and I didn't notice anything obviously wrong with the coils or the two finger things that arc electricity from the coils. I apologize for the lack of terminology. I also cleaned the tip of the nozzle and didn't see anything wrong. If you guys wish, I can take pictures if it might help you. Thanks!
 
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Old 03-24-18, 01:30 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

There is a small bleeder valve..... is that what you opened ?
You should let the burner run for 30 seconds or so to be sure all the air is purged out.

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Old 03-24-18, 01:33 PM
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Yes, that is what I opened. At first I thought it was a zerk! Lol. So I should open it up and (since each ignition test is 15 seconds) drain it for 2 cycle full of oil? I will try that.
 
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Old 03-24-18, 01:35 PM
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It needs to run until a continuous supply of pure oil comes out of the bleed port.
If you ran out, the nozzle and filter may need to be changed. Wiping off the end of the nozzle doesn’t really accomplish much if it’s become clogged with sludge from the bottom of the tank.
There are ways of keeping it running without firing for bleeding purposes, but I’m not so sure I want to post that here because if it’s done wrong you’ll fill the chamber with raw oil which will cause an explosion and/or fire when it lights.
If you keep hitting the reset button without it firing you could be doing the same. Make sure the bleed line is open or the nozzle line is draining into a bucket.
 
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Old 03-24-18, 01:42 PM
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Update:

I definately should have bled it longer. I now know! Thank you guys. Bled it and it actually did sputter a bit then i got a full stream of oil, closed it immediately and heard the flame ignite. Got it on the first cycle. THank you guys for your help! I appreciate it.

Also @ roughneck, my tank is very dirty and needs to be replaced, so cleaning the parts in my furnace are necessary, I have to clean my cad cell like 4 times a winter! I'm very cheap about replacing the oil tank lol.
ALso, I know about the reset button thing, thank you though. I'm the one who usually warns my wife about that. Thats why when I "confirmed that I had oil" but still got no ignition, I came on here because I didnt want to keep trying to reset it.
 
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Old 03-24-18, 04:24 PM
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Your cad cells getting sooted over? And multiple times a season? Why is that?
During the last burner tuneup, what was the smoke test number? What is overfire draft? If the cad cell is sooting that quick what’s the heat exchanger look like?
The burner head must be taking a beating, as what you describe is indicating insufficient draft.
The junk on the nozzle that you say you wipe off, is likely soot from poor draft. The nozzle should be changed every year, along with the oil filter. And if there is a pump strainer it should be checked and cleaned/replaced.
 
 

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