Beat up (heatpump) question

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  #1  
Old 11-01-16, 05:54 PM
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Beat up (heatpump) question

I found a ton of answers online but...
let me drink from your wisdom.
I have heat pump, Trane, with auxiliary heat strips in the furnace. Electric.
HP was working very lame last winter, practically non stop, lukewarm air out vents.
Had it fixed, now air comes out nice warm.
I have one of them multistage programmable Honeywells.
Still at work so not sure what exactly model. Looks like 6000 but no WIFI. Same layout.
But anyway.
here's question.
After guy fixed it all, HP was cycling fine. As in - turn on, run for about 10, turn off, turn back on in about 10.
What I noticed Sunday though is it kept running for about an hour, AFTER setpoint temp was reached. 68-68 on both sides of the display.
I manually dropped setpoint to 67 - HP turned off right away.
So why exactly is HP running for so long with setpoint reached? Was about 40 outside. After it ran for that long, it turned off and then cycled as usual.
To me, that's a lot of electricity wasted.
Also, what setting - if possible - is there to stop fan from running for another 5 minutes AFTER HP turned off? I get it, it "circulates air to properly disperse it through the house" but it also circulates my money into electric company pockets.
 
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Old 11-01-16, 09:14 PM
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You need to remember that thermostats work in tenths of a degree.
67.5, 67.6, 67.7, 67.8. 67.9, 68, 68.1, 68.2, 68.3, 68.4, 68.5 are all shown as 68.

If it stayed at 68-68 for an hour.... it's not working properly. It sounds like it's struggling otherwise if it kept running it would have overshot 68.

When the heatpump was only running for 10 minutes.... it must have been warm out.

The blower running after the heatpump shuts off is probably a dip switch programmable setting inside the air handler. A model number would be needed to check further. However, the air is being blown inside the house.... you aren't losing anything.... nothing is escaping for that 5 minutes.... just the coil is being cooled and the air is being spread further.

I'd ditch the fancy setback thermostat. With a heatpump.... in order to save money.... set the temperature and leave it.
 
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Old 11-01-16, 09:27 PM
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I found 1 answer. Went into installer settings. Blower was set to run for 90 seconds AFTER the setpoint is reached. Turned it off. I understand air is moved inside the house - but it is not moved by magic, it is moved by electrical motor=$$.
I also need to check - forgot - if I have intelligent recovery on or off. It's a big no no.
How do I determine if I have staged heat pump. I do have heat pump with auxiliary heat.
I have 2 options:
7 2 heat/1 cool heat pump (with aux. heat)
8 2 heat/2 cool multistage conventional
9 2 heat/1 cool multistage conventional
10 1 heat/2 cool multistage conventional
11 2 heat/2 cool heat pump (no aux. heat)
12 3 heat/2 cool heat pump (with aux. heat)

It's set to option 12, which is 3 heat/2 cool HP. Those are only two having aux heat in it.
How do I know?

As of struggling.... Air coming out the vents is pretty darn hot. I'd not call it struggling.

https://customer.honeywell.com/resou...0s/69-2693.pdf
 
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Old 11-01-16, 09:35 PM
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If the air was coming out of the vents hot..... the temperature could not remain at 68. It would have to rise.
 
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Old 11-01-16, 09:35 PM
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Yes, Adaptive recovery was turned on. Killed that. that's why it'd start at 4 30 am while set to 5 15 am for wake.
Now need to figure the heat pump - is it setting 7 or 12?

It's TH8000 stat.
 
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Old 11-02-16, 11:25 AM
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Ok, after setpoint is reached now blower runs only for 60 seconds. Guess, can't change that. HP cycles more or less normal. Maybe it was that intelligent recovery setting that made it run for so long at setpoint.
T-stat appears to be functioning just fine. Basic tests show that. I'll run system check tonight too.
 
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Old 11-02-16, 02:19 PM
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Got response from my repair guy.

This should be the proper setting:

7 2 heat/1 cool heat pump (with aux. heat)

instead of option 12 it is on now. Will have it fixed tonight.
 
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Old 11-02-16, 02:32 PM
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You are loosing money by cutting that fan off. You still have heat in that coil that could be moved to the living area. The fan should run 24/7 in the winter for comfort and good IAQ IMO. pocket change
 
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Old 11-02-16, 09:32 PM
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Fan runs for 60 seconds after HP shuts down to move it. That's plenty. HP now runs - as in cycling - quite fine. I have no issues with it NOT running.
 
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Old 11-03-16, 07:27 AM
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Using a programmable thermostat with a heat pump without locking out the auxiliary heat will cost you a lot more money then the fan running an extra couple minutes.
As a whole, I don't even recommend a setback temperature unless there's a way of keeping the electric heat off.
 
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Old 11-03-16, 11:34 AM
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The electricity is not "wasted" ... (see: first law of thermodynamics).
The little energy to run the blower ends up as heat - which you get the benefit of in the heating season. You might fuss about it running if you were cooling = but even then it's a trifle compared to the other advantages
 
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Old 11-03-16, 01:23 PM
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HP does not run on auxiliary heat. I saw it doing this ONCE last winter when it was cold outside. Display actually showed "auxiliary heat on".
Far as I know it will go to auxiliary strips only when HP can not pull enough heat from the outside.
As of now, I am quite happy with it. Reached setpoint temp in 20 minutes this morning. Cycles every about 20 minutes.
Before, last winter, it was practically running non stop. And air coming out the vents was barely warm. I have 4700 sf 2 story with vaulted everything and large windows, if it warmed it up in 20 minutes - I'm happy.
 
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