First the question: With an attic-mounted air handler system, is it normal OR desirable for the primary condensate tray to maintain some level of water in the tray? Can I alter the mounting of the air handler with the low point on the corner to which the primary drain is connected without any fuss? I don't see anything inside the unit which would be particularly sensitive to being level. So here are the specifics: I have a large home with two Goodman 4/5 ton AC/Heat Pump systems. The west system was flooding the secondary drip pan (no level switch protection) for some time due to a plugged p-trap in the internal (primary) drip tray. I resolved the problems with the drains, and did some work on the slope of the primary and secondary drains. All seems to be working well now, although there appears to be some corrosion on the condenser coil, and in fact may be leaking some refrigerant. (Another topic for later...) But the thing seems to drain well, even with low humidity. Due to the trouble with the west Air Handler, I went to look at the east unit. No signs of moisture in the secondary tray, but the primary drain didn't have a provision for a cleanout of the p-trap, and no vent downstream of the trap to prevent a double-trap. I cut the old one out and replaced it with a system per the Goodman installation manual. The east AC also has some corrosion, but not from a plugged drain apparently, but from a high level of water which existed in the primary tray for a long time according to the witness marks. I cleaned the tray and it now drains properly, more or less. However, there is no water emitting from the outside drain on the side of the house. The level (with the current low humidity conditions) seems to handle the condensation without anything getting to the drain. The unit maintains about 3/8" of water in the tray. Evidently, evaporation through the air stream is negating the need for the drain at this point. Hence -My question about changing the orientation of the system since it appears the low point is opposite of the drain. If I'm going to change the level of the assembly, I want to make sure I won't louse something else up trying to make the thing drain properly! Thanks in advance for any advice! Regards Pete Hodgkins aka Rugerhound

Replaced the capacitor on my 8 yr old heatpump (it was still working) as a preventative measure because it seems caps and contactors are common problems. BUT, the new (no name brand) one I bought from a online supply house only lasted 1-1/2 yrs. Should I just assume it was a poorly made item or look for something that made it fail in such a short time? The original one was a GE. When running its using 10.5 amps, about same as its always been.