Dehumidifiers rusting out quickly


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Old 11-17-18, 03:10 PM
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Dehumidifiers rusting out quickly

I had a GE brand 70 pint dehumidifier that rusted out and leaked in about 3 years. Had to replace it, bought a Frigidaire 70 pint. Its working now after 2 complete season however its going to suffer the same fate as the GE soon.... its rusting badly at the coils, the water discharge is rusty and the bucket is stained. I pulled the cover and it looks bad. I guess I am posting here out of frustration really, I don't think I can prevent this from happening.

Do you think I could wire brush the portion of the coils that have rusted and spray paint .... in hopes of slowing down the rust?

Are these things proned to rusting like this or do I have another issue with water getting to places its not supposed to?
 
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Old 11-17-18, 03:13 PM
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The parts that rust out are the sides of the coil, where some of the copper pass goes thru, not the fins themselves. I think its galvanized or something.... Its the exact location that rusted out on both dehumidifiers!!
 
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Old 11-17-18, 04:42 PM
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That is indeed frustrating. I have seen newer appliances including window A/C's rust much quicker then their predecessors. It's not the coil..... although those corrode quickly too.... but the metal support frame and drip pan.

I bought a Friedrich dehumidifier and have not had that problem at all.
 
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Old 11-17-18, 06:10 PM
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Galvanic corrosion is probably whats happening ... the rust on the metal brackets is eating the u-shaped tubes that pass thru them.
 
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Old 05-05-20, 04:14 AM
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I'm bumping this because I'm sick of spending $250-350 on a new dehumidifier every 3 years. I bought a Frigidaire FFAD7033R1 because it has the top reviews and thought I was getting quality.... not so. Its dead after 3 years. Sure Frigidaire has a warranty, but it only covers the compressed system, and I have to pay for all the labor and to disassemble, inspect, install, and reassemble so that's not going to be worth while over buying a new unit, and Frigidaire knows it.

It's the galvanized metal strip where the copper expansion side tubes run thru on either side of the cooling fins that is rusted out same as every other one I've had.

Does anyone have any luck with coating them in a rust paint or maybe a corrosion inhibitor?
 
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Old 05-05-20, 04:30 AM
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It's true, these things are made super cheap. I have an old White-Westinghouse that's over 40 years old. Still running even if I let it ice over for weeks at a time. No rust on shell or parts.
FWIW... I just bought a HISENSE for my daughter's new home. Don't think there any better but I have not heard of any complaints about them. In your case I wonder if the water content may be contributing to the early failure.
 
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Old 05-05-20, 04:37 PM
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Just to repeat.......
I bought a Friedrich dehumidifier and have not had that problem at all.
Going on it's third year with no rust,
 
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Old 05-10-20, 03:54 PM
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Appliances that are made today are utter S**T garbage with the electronic controls that has under rated relays that have their contacts weld on therefore the compressor will not turn off unless power is cut to the unit.

I had (gave it to a friend who was tired of buying a new dehumidifier every year.) Whirlpool (made for Kenmore\Sears Model 106.639140) I believe it is from around 1973 my friend still has it and he has not had to buy a new dehumidifier for six years now.

They really don't make them like that anymore. I hate the fact that people toss them because they use too much energy.

How about all the wasted resources making a POS appliance and shipping it to the USA from overseas and then the landfill waste when that appliance fails and it will.

That is how I got that Whirlpool unit from the side of the road and all that was wrong with it is the fan motor needed oil. Look around and see if you can find an old made in the USA appliance.
 
Norm201 voted this post useful.
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Old 08-22-21, 02:37 AM
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We've been having problems with our dehumidifier, getting an F0 code on a b00uwp07lk Frigidaire, which manual states could be due to voltage or temperature. Temperature is fine in the basement but the lights do dim when it clicks on, so thinking it was due to a power issue we've been trying different circuits.

It's been doing OK on one, but this morning when I unplugged it it started popping a bunch. Turns out there was ice all around the bottom of the filter plate which was making the noise. I removed the filter plate and noticed all the rust/corrosion. There was ice everywhere it seemed. I tried chipped some of it away but ended up hitting the grill, doh.

Anyways, check out the disaster.




 

Last edited by Mike-E; 08-22-21 at 03:14 AM.
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Old 08-22-21, 02:43 AM
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Unfortunately I believe part of this is my fault as I didn't realize there was a filter on this sucker that needed to be cleaned, and it didn't get cleaned until last year which was 3 years into it. I noticed that the bin started to get stained about a year after operation, which makes me think the rust/corrosion started around that time.
 

Last edited by Mike-E; 08-22-21 at 03:13 AM.
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Old 08-22-21, 03:16 AM
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> Going on it's third year with no rust

I did look for Friedrich dehumidifiers on Amazon but no dice. I think after reading this thread I am staying away from Frigidaire. Looking at this puppy:
https://smile.amazon.com/Kesnos-dehu.../dp/B081L577FJ
 
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Old 08-22-21, 03:56 AM
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You may want to do some research into sacrificial anodes. Anodes are very effective for coastal HVACs and I have used them for years. It's frustrating that you would need to add an anode, but it will prevent the corrosion.
 
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Old 08-22-21, 06:08 AM
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Mike, highly suggest you buy the extended warranty from Amazon for any brand you select. As stated earlier none of these modern units will last. I have purchased three units over two years and all three failed. Amazon has happily refunded my money. Won’t buy another without this extended warranty.

Never tried a Friedrich though. Will try one if there is an extended warranty available.

Curious about the sacrificial anode idea. Where is it placed?
 
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Old 08-23-21, 05:04 AM
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Interestingly enough @jeweler I was not offered an extended warranty upon checkout. Apparently, the reputation precedes the product. 🤷‍♂️

As for the anodes @jrsick, I, too, am interested in how that applies to a dehumidifier. Searching for additional information online wasn't so successful. Any links/resources you can provide would be greatly appreciated. 👍
 
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Old 08-23-21, 10:46 AM
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I've used anodes for the HVAC and pool ladder/light for years with good results. I started with this product: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Evaporat...5157/100575324
and now buy zinc by the bar and rod because it is much less expensive. The rod in the link will not last more than a month in my coastal carolina HVAC.
I think for the coils pictured in this post, you would need 2 anodes; one for the copper coils, and the other for the galvanized metal frame.
Attach the zinc and the cathode in direct contact if possible. If you can't connect them directly, use 12awg wire or so with about 6 inches of bare wire on each end. I use zip ties to secure the wire to the zinc/cathode. I tighten the zip tie over time as the zinc deteriorates.
I'm no expert on this, and welcome inputs from those who understand the science behind this better than I.
 
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Old 08-23-21, 01:07 PM
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jrsick, can show us a picture of your set-up? I was never a are of a sacrificial anode.
 
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Old 08-23-21, 01:18 PM
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The block or strip of magnesium or zinc you bring in as a sacrificial anode needs to make good metal to metal contact with the framework that is starting to rust away. A piece of copper wire clamped or bolted to each of the aforementioned items will serve as such a metal to metal contact. The anode needs to be at least partly submerged in the water that is sloshing around the other parts;.

Parts or surfaces that water runs down or drips down and dry off from time to time cannot be protected by an anode.

You don't need to attach anything to the copper tubes.
 
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Old 08-23-21, 04:11 PM
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Norm, the house is in Outer Banks and on a rental program for the time being. I can't get to it for a couple of weeks, but I can tell you it is nothing to brag about. I'd be embarrassed to show it but will if there is interest.
Allan, thanks for the info. So best option is to connect anode to the most noble metal only?
The zinc rod for the steel sits at the bottom of the condensing unit. It's probably always in a salty solution.
 
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Old 08-23-21, 06:02 PM
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jrsick, That's OK don't go through any trouble. I was more interested in the setup. I don't have the rust out problem. I have one of those old White-Westinghouse units that just won't die. Has to be close to 45 years old and I sometimes forget about it in cooler weather and let it freeze over. Thought I broke it on several occasions, but it keeps on running.
 
 

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