Getting rid of bed bugs?
#1
12-21-08, 05:19 PM
Getting rid of bed bugs?
We started getting bed bugs a few months ago, we immediately threw out all of our beds/mattresses and ripped out the carpets hoping to go back to all wood flooring now but these bugs are still around, my guess is they are hiding beneath the wood flooring? I tried spraying both bed bug spray and clorox spray on a daily basis between the wood floor spacings but it is not solving the problem, what can I do to finally get rid of these bed bugs please?
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#2
12-21-08, 07:36 PM
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Bed bugs can live for months without feeding. They hide in cracks along interior trim, furniture cracks, and, as you say, in cracks in wood flooring. Vacuum mattresses and seal in plastic to save new mattresses from getting infested. Bed bugs can also be found in upholstered furniture, drapery hems, etc. They can spread to other rooms.
Think like a bed bug and where you would hide. That's where you will likely find them. With an infestation, it's often best to call an exterminator. It will take repeat treatments. Eggs are protected by egg cases and hatch after the exterminator has left.
If you Google bed bugs, you will find that there is no shortage of info with 2,130,000 links available. Here's a good place to start: Bed Bugs | University of Kentucky Entomology
Think like a bed bug and where you would hide. That's where you will likely find them. With an infestation, it's often best to call an exterminator. It will take repeat treatments. Eggs are protected by egg cases and hatch after the exterminator has left.
If you Google bed bugs, you will find that there is no shortage of info with 2,130,000 links available. Here's a good place to start: Bed Bugs | University of Kentucky Entomology
#3
12-22-08, 05:04 AM
Thanks for the link, I will try to get this job done first myself and will start with the insecticide and dusting mentioned here in this article I just found:
Bed Bug: Elimination, Description of Bed Bugs, Common Bedbug
Bed Bug: Elimination, Description of Bed Bugs, Common Bedbug
#4
12-29-12, 07:23 PM
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Bed Bug Solution
We have had a problom with bed bugs for a while now but about 6mo ago I came across a forum that told us that if we used HOT SHOT brand spray ( any kind does not have to be the bed bug type) that coupled with cleaing and vacuming would do the trick of geting rid of these horrable creatures! Well long story short I decided to give it a try and not once but 2 a week for 12 weeks and guess what I can report that we are offical bed bug free!!! Now I know it seems like a long time and alot of work (and it is but its worth it to get rid of them) The cans of Aunt and roach hot shot are cheaper i think like 3.00 for a big can you can buy the bed bug spray they are $7.00 per can for the same amount now both do the same job. if you spray and vaccum each time 2 times a week for 12 weeks in all living areas you will win give it a try you dont have anything to lose but bed bugs!!!
#5
12-30-12, 07:11 AM
Hello Wolfman;
thanks for the info. Please note that the most recent post is from 2008 so you may not get a response from previous posters. Glad your treatment was successful. I would advise others that if a neighboring unit/apt has bedbugs and isn’t successfully treating, then treatment will need to continue indefinitely.
Being thorough, painfully thorough, is paramount. I’ve always suggested that two people, one to remove cushions, tip back furniture, pull out drawers, etc is valuable.
thanks for the info. Please note that the most recent post is from 2008 so you may not get a response from previous posters. Glad your treatment was successful. I would advise others that if a neighboring unit/apt has bedbugs and isn’t successfully treating, then treatment will need to continue indefinitely.
Being thorough, painfully thorough, is paramount. I’ve always suggested that two people, one to remove cushions, tip back furniture, pull out drawers, etc is valuable.
#6
04-21-14, 09:32 AM
We tried the hot shot spray for a few months and had thought we had it beat but now since it's starting to get warmer, we are seeing some of them. What I'd like to know is, what's the exact spray the pest control people use, any ideas please?
#7
04-22-14, 05:29 AM
Not in any particular order but here are some brand names: Temprid; Phantom; Transport; Zenprox; Any of these should also be mixed with Gentrol; an insect growth regulator.
These are all concentrates that need to be mixed with water and applied with a compressed air sprayer. Read the label instructions for mixing rates and application strategies.
These are all concentrates that need to be mixed with water and applied with a compressed air sprayer. Read the label instructions for mixing rates and application strategies.
#9
04-22-14, 03:25 PM
If by regular spray bottle you mean like the typical “windex” trigger sprayer, then yes it would be easier and time saving to have a 1 gallon compressed air sprayer. Bed bug treatment requires more volume than general pest control. When treating a baseboard area you want the insecticide to run below the carpeting, carpet tack, padding and into and below the sub-floor a little bit. You have to put it where they live; not just where they travel. If wood/vinyl flooring then you need to treat under the baseboard as best you can. Treat above baseboard into any gaps/cracks. You will be on your knees for much of the treatment. Take mattress and box springs off of frame to treat frame. Get bed bug proof mattress covers for mattress AND box springs. Bed bug work is time, labor, and insecticide intensive.
#11
04-22-14, 04:03 PM
Treat heavily enough where the carpet meets the baseboard so that it soaks in and down. You could also pull up the carpet around the edges to treat as the padding edges and carpet tack are harborage. If an area rug, then I would treat the underside of it.
I doubt that you can buy it pre-mixed. Even if you could, that is an expensive way to purchase as you would be buying mostly water.
I doubt that you can buy it pre-mixed. Even if you could, that is an expensive way to purchase as you would be buying mostly water.
#12
04-22-14, 04:27 PM
Thanks for the info but my god, this will be too expensive for me to hire a pest control person as one told me it may require not just 2 but multiple treatments. I did a quick search for one of the products you mentioned and found this:
Temprid Ready Spray Residual Bed Bug Spray
would something like that work if I can purchase a few cans at a time? If yes, it says cannot be shipped to CA or NY, does this mean it cannot be shipped here or it cannot be sold to NY residents?
Temprid Ready Spray Residual Bed Bug Spray
would something like that work if I can purchase a few cans at a time? If yes, it says cannot be shipped to CA or NY, does this mean it cannot be shipped here or it cannot be sold to NY residents?
#14
04-23-14, 06:14 AM
The aerosol would be a good supplement to a compressed air treatment.
The concentrate in the 2nd photo is a very good choice but I would still mix it with Gentrol as I pointed out earlier.
NY and Calif are restrictive as to modern day insecticides; you’ll have to check with the seller.
The concentrate in the 2nd photo is a very good choice but I would still mix it with Gentrol as I pointed out earlier.
NY and Calif are restrictive as to modern day insecticides; you’ll have to check with the seller.
#15
05-06-14, 04:11 AM
Can you tell me what the main differences are between the liquids you mentioned and the "freezing" spray some companies use please? I am guessing the freeze spray is the best that's why it's so expensive?
#16
05-06-14, 05:34 AM
The chemicals I’ve been referring to are insecticides that kill the insects as they live and function in the treated area. They leave a residual, meaning that after they dry there is still an insecticide in place. It is very important to put the insecticide where the bed bugs live and function so as to maximize their exposure to it.
I’m not sure what the freezing spray is that you are asking about. If it is simply a low temperature treatment then that would work by actually contacting the bed bugs themselves and freezing their body tissues. No residual effect. You kill only what you contact at that moment.
I’m not aware that bed bug treatment companies are using low temp treatments but they are having success with just the opposite-high temp treatments or thermal treatments. Heating the interior of the living spaces to about 135-145 fahrenheit and holding it there so that the furniture, walls, carpets, etc get up to temp and stay there a while. Again, no residual with this treatment but it does work pretty well if the place is prepared properly. The more stored stuff in a living space, the chances of success go down.
Hope this helps.
I’m not sure what the freezing spray is that you are asking about. If it is simply a low temperature treatment then that would work by actually contacting the bed bugs themselves and freezing their body tissues. No residual effect. You kill only what you contact at that moment.
I’m not aware that bed bug treatment companies are using low temp treatments but they are having success with just the opposite-high temp treatments or thermal treatments. Heating the interior of the living spaces to about 135-145 fahrenheit and holding it there so that the furniture, walls, carpets, etc get up to temp and stay there a while. Again, no residual with this treatment but it does work pretty well if the place is prepared properly. The more stored stuff in a living space, the chances of success go down.
Hope this helps.
#17
05-06-14, 07:49 AM
Yes, that explanation helps a lot, thank yuo very much for taking the time to do so! The freezing spray I was referring to was from a TV commercial I saw the other day with a guy in protective gear walking through a kitchen spraying what looked like a white colored freezing mist.
Anyway, my only concern would be the safety factor for "kids" room? I watched the video on the Temprid site so I know "where" to spray it along with your previous suggestions but I am concerned since it leaves a residue behind, if sprayed like on the box spring and cracks and crevices in the furniture, should the kids still come into contact with it would it cause them any harm? Of course I would not hold the company that makes this responsible in such an event, just looking at the safety factor? Any opinions on this please?
Anyway, my only concern would be the safety factor for "kids" room? I watched the video on the Temprid site so I know "where" to spray it along with your previous suggestions but I am concerned since it leaves a residue behind, if sprayed like on the box spring and cracks and crevices in the furniture, should the kids still come into contact with it would it cause them any harm? Of course I would not hold the company that makes this responsible in such an event, just looking at the safety factor? Any opinions on this please?
#18
05-06-14, 04:15 PM
Once it is dry it pretty well stays put but we should still minimize exposure to skin regardless. It can cause an allergic skin reaction.
I would spray between mattress and box springs but not necessarily the side (vertical) part of the box springs. The bedbugs will be between the mattress and box springs more so anyway. If there are corner guards spray behind them. I would also spray the bed frame by lifting the box spring, spraying and replacing same.
If there is a dust ruffle you may want to consider removing it. Otherwise at least spray the elastic/staple area as they will congregate there.
If you get bed bug proof mattress/box spring covers they will seal well enough that you don’t have to spray the bedding at all. Don’t tear them during installation though. Google bed bug mattress covers. Our Wal-mart carries them.
Also look up Active-guard mattress covers. These are impregnated with permethrin. I’m reading that there is success with using them on the box spring and not necessarily the mattress. The permethrin is claimed to last two years.
The tight fitting mattress covers are a two man job to install. Make sure they are sized correctly. The Active guards are slip-fit.
I would spray between mattress and box springs but not necessarily the side (vertical) part of the box springs. The bedbugs will be between the mattress and box springs more so anyway. If there are corner guards spray behind them. I would also spray the bed frame by lifting the box spring, spraying and replacing same.
If there is a dust ruffle you may want to consider removing it. Otherwise at least spray the elastic/staple area as they will congregate there.
If you get bed bug proof mattress/box spring covers they will seal well enough that you don’t have to spray the bedding at all. Don’t tear them during installation though. Google bed bug mattress covers. Our Wal-mart carries them.
Also look up Active-guard mattress covers. These are impregnated with permethrin. I’m reading that there is success with using them on the box spring and not necessarily the mattress. The permethrin is claimed to last two years.
The tight fitting mattress covers are a two man job to install. Make sure they are sized correctly. The Active guards are slip-fit.
#20
05-18-14, 11:40 PM
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They cannot bare heat, so make use of hair dryer over them !
Hope this works.
All the best!!
Hope this works.
All the best!!
#22
05-26-14, 04:03 AM
I copied this from the label. Re-read the label and highlight anything to do with bed bugs as this will help with strategies. It is important to use the 8ml/gal rate as the higher rate can actually repel them away from the chemical until it weakens.
Bed bugs
Use Rate: 0.075% - 0.27 fl oz (8 milliliters) of Temprid SC per gal of water. Controls bed bug populations that are resistant to pyrethroid insecticides. Spray bugs and eggs directly wherever possible following site directions below. For infested mattresses, remove linens and wash before reuse. Apply to tufts, seams, folds, and edges until moist. Allow to dry before remaking bed. Apply to bedsprings, box springs, and the interior of bed frames or headboards, including all cracks and joints. When bed bugs are found in upholstered furniture, apply only to the infested tufts, seams, folds and edges, but do not apply to flat surfaces where prolonged human contact will occur. If bugs heavily infest furniture (inside cushions and/or batting) apply a labeled insecticide dust or consider fumigation. Apply as a crack and crevice treatment to all baseboards, moldings, beneath floor coverings and carpets, closets, shelves, curtains, furniture and picture frames that may provide harborage to bed bugs. Re-apply every 7 to 10 days, as needed, until infestation is eliminated.
Bed bugs
Use Rate: 0.075% - 0.27 fl oz (8 milliliters) of Temprid SC per gal of water. Controls bed bug populations that are resistant to pyrethroid insecticides. Spray bugs and eggs directly wherever possible following site directions below. For infested mattresses, remove linens and wash before reuse. Apply to tufts, seams, folds, and edges until moist. Allow to dry before remaking bed. Apply to bedsprings, box springs, and the interior of bed frames or headboards, including all cracks and joints. When bed bugs are found in upholstered furniture, apply only to the infested tufts, seams, folds and edges, but do not apply to flat surfaces where prolonged human contact will occur. If bugs heavily infest furniture (inside cushions and/or batting) apply a labeled insecticide dust or consider fumigation. Apply as a crack and crevice treatment to all baseboards, moldings, beneath floor coverings and carpets, closets, shelves, curtains, furniture and picture frames that may provide harborage to bed bugs. Re-apply every 7 to 10 days, as needed, until infestation is eliminated.
#23
05-26-14, 06:34 AM
I have about 1/3 left from the 1 gallon mixture, would that still be usable after one week or should I throw it out? Also, I am not understanding the "as needed" part, should I spray on a weekly basis as a maintenance for a while or wait to see if there is any and when I do see one then then spray and so on?
#24
05-27-14, 05:39 AM
7-10 days; no more; shake thoroughly.
For the first month I’d inspect/monitor all areas, even areas/spots that weren’t treated and re-treat if live bugs found. Otherwise, once a month I’d do a thorough treatment continuing to monitor. Six months of monthly treatments and re-treating as necessary wouldn’t be unusual. By then you should have an idea of whats working, whats not, and trouble spots.
Did you purchase Gentrol as well? That is an important supplement. (my reply of 4/22/14) Also the Activeguard mattress covers? All of it is important.
For the first month I’d inspect/monitor all areas, even areas/spots that weren’t treated and re-treat if live bugs found. Otherwise, once a month I’d do a thorough treatment continuing to monitor. Six months of monthly treatments and re-treating as necessary wouldn’t be unusual. By then you should have an idea of whats working, whats not, and trouble spots.
Did you purchase Gentrol as well? That is an important supplement. (my reply of 4/22/14) Also the Activeguard mattress covers? All of it is important.
#25
05-27-14, 05:50 AM
Thanks a million. I did not forget, just that I could not afford the Gentrol this time but will try to get it later on. Yes, I am thinking of applying once per month consistently for a while. What I tried to do was give it a thorough spraying this first time but if I am understanding you correctly, if I should see any say next week or the week after [before the 30 days are up] I should spray again?
#28
06-23-14, 04:28 PM
Isn't this spray supposed to kill bugs "on contact"? I very thoroughly sprayed the bed in the room which has the most infestation and the very next day, found quite a few on the same bed? Any ideas/advice please?
#29
06-23-14, 06:19 PM
Temprid works. Doesn’t kill fast; rather, it is slow acting but a long residual. Did you treat between the mattress and box spring? Did you remove both and treat the bed frame, headboard, etc.? Possibly they are coming from inside the mattress/box spring? Did you get the bed-bug proof mattress covers? If they are living inside the mattress/box spring then you will need them.
#30
06-24-14, 03:54 AM
Oh, I was expecting it to kill fast according to what I had read on their page as shown below:
Key Features:
Kills most of a population immediately, and offers up to 6 months of residual protection.
Effective against bed bugs of all ages and their eggs.
Labeled for hardwood, upholstery, carpet, and other fabrics. (Always read the label and MSDS for safe and effective usage)
Low odor, non-staining solution.
Yes, I treated everywhere mentioned where they could possibly hide and used a generous amount of spray so if what I am now seeing post-spray are those that are hiding somewhere else then I guess I will have to wait until whenever the spray works. No, I did not get the covers due to finance reasons, I will try to get the "inhibitor" first. Is there another spray which works faster even though with less residual power?
Key Features:
Kills most of a population immediately, and offers up to 6 months of residual protection.
Effective against bed bugs of all ages and their eggs.
Labeled for hardwood, upholstery, carpet, and other fabrics. (Always read the label and MSDS for safe and effective usage)
Low odor, non-staining solution.
Yes, I treated everywhere mentioned where they could possibly hide and used a generous amount of spray so if what I am now seeing post-spray are those that are hiding somewhere else then I guess I will have to wait until whenever the spray works. No, I did not get the covers due to finance reasons, I will try to get the "inhibitor" first. Is there another spray which works faster even though with less residual power?
#31
06-24-14, 05:20 AM
You won’t see the bulk of the bugs that did die quickly as they can still be in the harborage. This is how it works. No matter how good we are, bed bugs are difficult to control. As I’ve stated before this is the most difficult aspect of our industry to control. Bed bug work is labor, time and chemical intensive as well as expensive.
If the bugs are living in the mattress/box springs then you will continue to see live insects until they contact the chemical long enough to die. This is why proper mattress covers are an essential part of control. Without these and Gentrol you are limiting the chemicals ability to work and putting the burden on your labor and re-treatments. It can work, but be patient and diligent.Bed Bugs | University of Kentucky Entomology
Search, read and learn all you can about bed bugs, their behavior, and treatment. We do that and attend continuing education for required credits. It takes time and experience to learn for us; you are just getting started.
Financial constraints are realistic, I get that, but that is irrelevant if you want to get the job done.
Other labeled insecticides are : Transport; Zenprox; Phantom; Gentrol; Exciter; all of which we use in various combinations. I’ve given you a strategy throughout this and previous posts. Re-read them as you read other materials. University of KY is a good place to start.
Bed Bugs | University of Kentucky Entomology
If the bugs are living in the mattress/box springs then you will continue to see live insects until they contact the chemical long enough to die. This is why proper mattress covers are an essential part of control. Without these and Gentrol you are limiting the chemicals ability to work and putting the burden on your labor and re-treatments. It can work, but be patient and diligent.Bed Bugs | University of Kentucky Entomology
Search, read and learn all you can about bed bugs, their behavior, and treatment. We do that and attend continuing education for required credits. It takes time and experience to learn for us; you are just getting started.
Financial constraints are realistic, I get that, but that is irrelevant if you want to get the job done.
Other labeled insecticides are : Transport; Zenprox; Phantom; Gentrol; Exciter; all of which we use in various combinations. I’ve given you a strategy throughout this and previous posts. Re-read them as you read other materials. University of KY is a good place to start.
Bed Bugs | University of Kentucky Entomology
#32
06-24-14, 08:18 AM
I had read that link in the past even before posting here, great article but does not cover every single issue of course. One bedroom seems to have the biggest problem and I am thinking it's because of the flooring as the the original flooring is hard wood but another new hardwood flooring was installed on top of the original and over "foam material and the newer top flooring is not sealed so I am guessing that bugs will be living under there? If yes, I am guessing there won't be any way to treat under that top flooring? If not then best option would be to seal that top flooring somehow?
#33
06-24-14, 05:56 PM
I’ve never heard of sealing a floor or floor covering because of bed bugs. If there are gaps, cracks, openings that go down into the void space between floor joists then that needs to be treated into. Otherwise, it’s not an issue.
Unusual places that need to be checked: curtain rods; behind wall hangings; behind electric plates; phone jacks; furniture/chair frames especially if tubular; nearby clocks/electrical eqpt;
I’ll keep thinking...!
Unusual places that need to be checked: curtain rods; behind wall hangings; behind electric plates; phone jacks; furniture/chair frames especially if tubular; nearby clocks/electrical eqpt;
I’ll keep thinking...!
#34
06-25-14, 06:20 AM
I was just thinking that since there is foam between the top and original floor that this might be a haven for bugs and if so then I may need to seal around the perimeter of the top floor so nothing can go in and out between the 2 floors?
#35
07-09-14, 07:44 AM
Making progress, it is definitely starting to work [thanks!] but one issue, each week when I mix the 8ml with one Gallon of water, I only about 1/4 of the gallon and this is with very generous spraying and since you've told me I should use the mixture within 7-10 days, this means I always have to throw out half of the mixture after spraying the 2nd week, is there any fix for this please?
#37
07-09-14, 02:28 PM
Yes you can simply make 1/2 gal with 4 ml. It is a direct proportion ratio so you can make as much or as little as you want by increasing/decreasing the concentrae in direct proportion with the water. Glad to hear you are making progress.
#38
07-09-14, 02:49 PM
Yeah, aside from seeing less and less especially now in the heart of the summer when they tend to show up most, since last month I had started for the very first time seeing one or 2 "dead" ones here and there which suggests to me that the spray residue is what's starting to kill them?
#39
07-10-14, 12:55 PM
You don’t need to re-treat any areas weekly unless you have reason to; otherwise once a month should be plenty. Do the weekly re-treatment only in the areas where you still see live activity.
