wood cellulose insulation

Hello,

I am removing drywall on my bathroom against an exterior wall. I got tired of trying to peel off the glued-on wall panels.

Anyway, the wall is insulated with the old wood cellulose insulation wrapped in pillows that are stapled to the studs.

Would it be a good time to remove all the drywall to the ceiling now and re-insulate with fiberglass bats right now? I was only removing about 5 feet up from the floor, just high enough to remove the glued-on paneling. It looks like there has been some settling of this 1950s-era insulation product.

 

Settling is a problem with that age of house. Removing all the drywall to the ceiling will allow you not only to replace the insulation, but to upgrade/modify wiring and plumbing that may be suspect, such as that receptacle within 2' of the toilet. It should be GFCI protected, or not there at all.

If you decide to do that, fiberglas will give you an R13 value, and you should use kraft faced. Spending a little more money, you could achieve an R15 by using Roxul, which is mineral wool batts, having virtues of being fireproof, mildew/mold proof, vermin proof, and water proof, and needs no vapor barrier. Just a better product for the use, IMO. While you are at it, remove the compressed insulation around the window as compressed fiberglas offers no insulative qualities at all. Use minimally expanding spray foam in the cavities.

 

Thanks Chandler.
I really appreciate your advice. I was thinking it would make sense to go all the way to the ceiling with the drywall replacement since the ceilings are 8 feet and I won't have as many seams to worry about that way. I re-insulated my attic a few years ago that had this same cellulose insulation...Lots of staples. A real pain...Wasn't planning on the wiring, but yah that outlet should probably be moved... Thanks again for your this and your numerous answers to my questions over the last couple of years.
Thanks again

 

Does the Roxul on an exterior wall need a vapor barrier.

 

No, the Roxul does not need a vapor barrier.

 

They have learned since your house was built that air sealing is a primary concern. A few tubes of caulking and picture frame each cavity to seal the studs and plates directly to the sheathing helps to isolate any air movement within the walls. Also any penetrations should be sealed.

Ditto on the Roxul, very dense and easy to work with.

Bud