Ceiling fan pre-wiring - How to wire Ceiling Fan


  #1  
Old 10-22-16, 05:58 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: USA
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Ceiling fan pre-wiring - How to wire Ceiling Fan

I'm hard time wiring my new ceiling fan. Manual looks pretty simple but my home pre-wiring is little mystery.
The wiring I see coming down from Ceiling is 4 wires all in white covering, and white covering colored purple for one wire and yellow for other wire, then remaining two separate wires are already joined and twisted together on edges. I'm trying to connect Hunter Contempo 54 inch fan with remote and led lights(bought from Costco). I've tested used non-contact tester to understand both colored wires carry current but not white joined wires. So far I attempted two options -> I connect fan wiring as (receiver black to purple(ceiling), green(fan) to yellow(Ceiling) & Bracket, white to white(joined), option 2: black to yellow(Ceiling), green(fan) to purple(Ceiling), while remaining wiring intact. Receiver to fan wiring as instructed in the manual (blue to blue(fan), yellow to black(fan)). Unfortunately none of this trial succeeded so far and resulted in circuit breaker tripping both times. I'm do it your self kind of person but getting frustrated that just 4 wires not getting into line:). Any help is welcome and appreciated. This location (zip: 60564) has Conduit wiring. Name:  FromCeiling-Pre-wiredForFan.jpg
Views: 4571
Size:  24.1 KBName:  Fanwiring-1.jpg
Views: 3182
Size:  23.3 KBName:  Fanwiring-black.jpg
Views: 2456
Size:  21.8 KBName:  Manual-Wiring-1.jpg
Views: 2123
Size:  34.8 KBName:  Manual-Wiring-2.jpg
Views: 2075
Size:  33.9 KBName:  Receiver.jpg
Views: 2483
Size:  56.4 KB
 
  #2  
Old 10-22-16, 08:23 PM
ray2047's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 33,581
Received 13 Votes on 11 Posts
I've tested used non-contact tester to understand both colored wires carry current but not white joined wires.
A non contact tester can not be used for real testing. Give it to your kid to play with and get a multimeter, preferably analog (or a neon test light or a solenoid voltage tester).

Was there a light there previously? if so how was it connected? Is there a switch? If so tell us all the wires and connections at the switch. If possible post a picture with the switch pulled out.

Is the ceiling box fan rated?
 
  #3  
Old 10-23-16, 03:39 AM
pugsl's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: United States
Posts: 9,029
Received 76 Votes on 69 Posts
If a switch or 2 switches let us know. If fan has a remote control and light kit only one of power wires can be used.
 
  #4  
Old 10-23-16, 11:38 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 62,543
Received 1,599 Votes on 1,473 Posts
You have a white, yellow, and purple wire.

Do not ground the yellow wire. The fan's ground goes to the green wire.
The three wires between the receiver and the fan are self explanatory.
The white from the receiver will go to the two white wires.
The black from the receiver will go to the purple OR the yellow..... not both.
The extra wire gets capped off.

As per Ray's question.... make sure that is a fan rated mounting box.
 
  #5  
Old 10-26-16, 06:39 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: USA
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thank you all for responses.

For Ray's question: Yes Ceiling box is fan rated (pre-wired for fan) and I'm attempting fixing fan for first time in that place. There are two switches (not dual switch) on the wall, one controls power to fan, the other controls power to one outlet in the corner of the room.
Thank you Ray for suggestion on non contact tester vs multi meter. I'd do that (esp giving to kid part . It works for my kid. Switch box picture will be uploaded very soon here after my next attempt(and if it fails yet again which I hope not)

Thank you Pjmax, your response perfectly matching like a second opinion (since I got to it later than other forum: delay on my part) giving me added confidence to attempt next time for success. Steps are very simple to solve that mystery part.
 
  #6  
Old 10-27-16, 07:44 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: USA
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Name:  FanSwitchWiring-1.jpg
Views: 1622
Size:  41.1 KB

Name:  FanSwitchWiring-2.jpg
Views: 1505
Size:  31.2 KB

I've two pictures from switch uploaded here. Left side switch is nothing but the fan switch. I'd like if this might assist further. Much appreciated for any insights. Will attempt over weekend for next.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 10-27-16 at 08:12 PM. Reason: Rotate one image and insert proper spacing between images.
  #7  
Old 10-27-16, 08:14 PM
ray2047's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 33,581
Received 13 Votes on 11 Posts
Pictures with the switches not pulled out are not helpful because we need to see all the wires and connections on both switches plus any other connections in the box.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 10-27-16 at 09:10 PM.
  #8  
Old 10-29-16, 07:47 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: USA
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thank you Ray for detailed ask. First picture could be bit high level but showing wiring to switch and 3 conduit pipes. In the second picture, we can see more detail such as a black wire going from one end to other end.


Name:  SwitchesPulledOut-1.jpg
Views: 1574
Size:  34.3 KB


Name:  SwitchesPulledOut-2.jpg
Views: 1606
Size:  42.8 KB
 
  #9  
Old 10-29-16, 07:56 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: USA
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Just in case, now I may have more knowledge but want to show Fan Manual reference: http://www.hunterfan.com/SupportDocu...s/M3571-01.pdf
 
  #10  
Old 10-29-16, 08:14 AM
ray2047's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 33,581
Received 13 Votes on 11 Posts
Excellent pictures. The blue on the left switch is power in. If the wire I circled below is purple on the other end then both yellow and purple are controlled by the same switch and either can be capped and not used. If the wire isn't purple then I'm confused.

Name:  SwitchesPulledOut-1.jpg
Views: 1881
Size:  36.4 KB
 
  #11  
Old 10-29-16, 08:58 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: USA
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yes Ray. That wire you marked is purple. Thank you and I'' now eager to post success after my 'final' attempt.
 
  #12  
Old 10-29-16, 12:47 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: USA
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I've attempted wiring with both alternatives attempted; one time capped yellow wire, the other time purple was capped. It looks like I'm on positive side this time but not sure to see it as complete.

Better than previous experience - that circuit breaker did not trip so power to the room remain intact. I did not finish my entire work of fixing fan yet but attempting only to see if wiring works. So, the best test I see is to see if the light will turn on and next step is if possible to see if fan motor turns with out blades fixed.


Every time I turn on the switch I see lights flash and go off irrespective of what I'm doing with remote (yes, each time).
Reference Video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5s...piZ2ZEclE/view

In general what I expected is lights will stay on and relate to remote actions. And so fan motor may turn if I do so on remote. I think all remaining work is mechanical (like fix blades and give it a final shape). I'm also sure remote battery is as new as fan came along fan package and so far not yet clicked more than 10 times. This is making me to think to think if I can move ahead finish all of it and then attempt.

Quick internet read relates mentioning: I've attempted 1 and then 2 CFL bulbs each of 13 watts, each light holder on fan indicates max 14 w can be attempted. I've to attempt 9W LED bulbs that came along, may be that can indicate something to me.

Any one sensing problem with that flashing or that flshing light indicate everything is going to be good when done?

Thank you all and any insights is very much appreciated.
 

Last edited by diyuser16; 10-29-16 at 12:59 PM. Reason: New paragraph about wattage of lights introduced
  #13  
Old 10-29-16, 01:45 PM
ray2047's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 33,581
Received 13 Votes on 11 Posts
Do not use the purple. Back stabbed connections are less reliable then screw connections. Use the yellow.

Black and white on right side of receiver in the picture go to yellow and white from house. White of receiver left side to fan white. Receiver yellow to fan black. Receiver blue to fan blue.

Name:  Receiver.jpg
Views: 1783
Size:  49.0 KB
 
  #14  
Old 10-29-16, 02:50 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: USA
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thank you Ray for suggestion. Yes I will use yellow from ceiling as power source.
And The white wire on the left side of the receiver along with yellow and black is the remote signal receiver wire usually suggested the to keep outside of the fixture. All other whites were suggested to be joined with one wiring cap. Trying togive final shape despite if remote or other component might be spelling some problem or not due to flashing experience.
With Yellow from ceiling used and LED lights (9.8W) I see nothing this time (LED bulbs working otherwise in other rooms). Again I switched to one CFL bulb 13W removing 2 LEDs and I see flashing back. So I think if any circuit is waiting to be completing upon giving final shape, it may be wonderful then.
 
  #15  
Old 10-29-16, 04:50 PM
ray2047's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 33,581
Received 13 Votes on 11 Posts
remote or other component might be spelling some problem or not due to flashing experience.
The LEDs may not be compatible with the dimmer built in to the remote or the LEDs aren't the dimable type. If the LEDs are intended for dimming but don't work probably nothing you can do unless you bypass the remote and use a hard wired dimmer for the lights.

Also note you need to check other switches and receptacles for back stabs. If such as in this case the back stab and screw were used as a splice instead the wires should be pigtailed to the screw instead. (Of course in this case only one wire was needed so no need.) Any with just one wire back stabbed wire on the terminal should be moved to the screw to prevent possible future problems. No hurry to do that but keep it in mind if a switch or receptacle stops working.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: