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Most Challenging Light Fixture I have Encountered(Fuse blow on light turn off)

Most Challenging Light Fixture I have Encountered(Fuse blow on light turn off)


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Old 10-27-16, 06:08 AM
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Angry Most Challenging Light Fixture I have Encountered(Fuse blow on light turn off)

I just joined this forum today as I need help with installing a new ceiling light/2 light switches(3-way) I will try and add pictures later today to help my description. I have already installed 5 new light fixtures in my house I just bought, all pretty straight forward and easy to install with no issues. I am trying to install a ceiling light fixture in my basement(the last one!), here's the challenge!!

I am replacing one dimmer switch to a standard non dimmer(3 way)..that switch box has 2 red 1 black and ground....tested - black is hot

The other switch was not a dimmer and has 1 pink?? 1 black 1 white and ground...this switch was also wired white to black screw, black to white screw....tested - black is hot

The ceiling has 4 black and 4 white!!! and ground coming out. The old fixture had 3 black/3 white wires and ground and was a 3-bulb fixture. I am trying to change to a 1 bulb fixture that only has 1 black/1 white and ground.

I have identified the black (hot) out of the 4 in the ceiling and have tried all sorts of wire combinations with all of those. NOTE, both switch black(hot) wires are not live if I do not have another specific black wire out of the ceiling connected with the identified hot black in the ceiling, so in order to get the light on and have power at both switches, 2 out of the 4 black coming out of the ceiling need to be connected to the black fixture wire.

Only issue is when I do this and turn the breaker back on, the light is automatically on and when I flip either switch it blows the fuse.........

I have tried to switch black and white connectors at the switches and have tried multiple combinations with all the ceiling wires and light fixture(except mixing white with black and vice versa at the ceiling fixture) The original fixture did not have black to white at all, from ceiling to fixture


Sorry for the long post but I wanted to be as descriptive as possible.
Any help or suggestions will be much appreciated!! (this has been the bane of my existence for the past 2 weeks)
 
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Old 10-27-16, 06:49 AM
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A bit hard to follow so I will make some points.

Three way switches have three terminals (plus ground). Two travelers and one common (the odd colored screw usually dark gray). The common is the most important screw. At one switch the power in is connected to the common. At the other switch common is connected to the power out to the light.

With the wires disconnected only one wire will show hot to ground or neutral. A non contact tester can not be used to determine which wire is hot. You must use a multimeter, preferably analog (or a neon test light or a solenoid voltage tester).

The power can come in at the light or one of the switches. 99% likely it is a two conductor cable (black, white). To help you we must know where power comes in.

At the ceiling only two wires should have been disconnected, the two house wires to the light. All other connections should have remained connected.The new light is connected to those two wires.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/li...rt-images.html
 
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Old 10-27-16, 07:08 AM
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Hi Ray,

Sorry if it was hard to follow, I will follow up with pictures when I get home later. To answer your response, I believe all 4 black were connected together in one nut when I disconnected the old light fixture. This combination does not work with the new light fixture that has only one black.
 
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Old 10-27-16, 08:28 AM
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Also, I did some troubleshooting last night and separated all wires at switch box and ceiling box, turned breaker back on then non-contact volt tested to see which wire showed pulse. With all wires on their own, only 1 black in the ceiling actually lit up. After turning breaker off, I tried to connect another black(out of 4 coming out of ceiling box) with that black live wire and it gave me a pulse at both switch box blacks(breaker back on). When these are not connected at ceiling (with wires exposed and breaker on) I do not get anything at any wire with the volt tester. I assume that would mean power is run directly to the ceiling box first? Should I connect the white instead of the black wire with hot black in ceiling box to give juice to switch boxes. Would then also reverse connections at switches?
 
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Old 10-27-16, 01:16 PM
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then non-contact volt tested to see which wire showed pulse.
As I wrote you can not use a non contact tester to accurately test for voltage. We can not help you till you use a real voltage tester. An $8-$15 analog multimeter will work fine for testing.
 
 

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