Wire new light to three way switched outlets
#1
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Wire new light to three way switched outlets
I have searched high and low but can only find posts about adding light fixtures to single switches like you'd find in a bedroom. I have a Dining Room with 2 light switches controlling the bottom half of all of the outlets in the room. I ran a wire to my second switch and need to figure out how to wire this in and what to change at the outlets. Ideally I would make the outlets all hot and only have the fixture on the switches.
I've attached a picture and I can only wire the fixture to Switch #2 in the diagram. I also drew the way the outlets are wired in case you need to see.
Thanks for any help
I've attached a picture and I can only wire the fixture to Switch #2 in the diagram. I also drew the way the outlets are wired in case you need to see.
Thanks for any help
#2
Where does power come in? (You can not determine that with a non contact tester.) Is it at the receptacle or one of the switches? Is that a capped off not used black wire on the left side of switch one.
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I'm not sure yet where the power comes in. Is there a straight forward way to find out? I have a digital volt meter but that's all I typically use.
The black wire is by itself and capped off in the picture of switch 1.
The black wire is by itself and capped off in the picture of switch 1.
#4
Power in will typically be a 2-conductor cable. You show two 2-conductor cables in switch box #2 does either of those read ~120v between black and white when disconnected and measured with a multimeter?
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Thanks for your follow up, disconnecting really shed some light on what's going on in there. One of the 2-wire wires has constant power when disconnected and one wire has now power (I'm guessing that continues on to the closet switch in the same bay but on the other side of the wall). The other one is attached to the switch with the red wire and read no power from any wires.
I have 5 switches that are all switched on the bottom outlet and they all have the tab broken on the right side and intact on the left. They all are wired the same and have a red wire connected as shown in the diagram.
Knowing what I know now I could just replace an outlet with a tabbed one, cap of the reds and run the new wire off of the switch BUT my main issue is somehow getting that other switch to be able to control the light fixture as well.
Any thoughts? Thank you
I have 5 switches that are all switched on the bottom outlet and they all have the tab broken on the right side and intact on the left. They all are wired the same and have a red wire connected as shown in the diagram.
Knowing what I know now I could just replace an outlet with a tabbed one, cap of the reds and run the new wire off of the switch BUT my main issue is somehow getting that other switch to be able to control the light fixture as well.
Any thoughts? Thank you
#6
One of the 2-wire wires has constant power when disconnected
one wire has now power
I have 5 switches that are all switched on the bottom outlet and they all have the tab broken on the right side and intact on the left.
BUT my main issue is somehow getting that other switch to be able to control the light fixture as well.
One of the 2-wire wires has constant power when disconnected
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Thanks for the clarification. All of that makes sense. I think it'll be easier if I just rephrase post #5
One of the 2-wire cables ran to switch #2 in the diagram has constant power when disconnected and one cable has no power (I'm guessing that continues on to the closet light switch in the same bay but on the other side of the wall). The other cable is attached to the switch with the red wire and reads no power from any combination of wires.
I have 5 receptacles that are all switched on the bottom outlet and they all have the tab broken on the right side and intact on the left. They all are wired the same and have a red wire connected as shown in the diagram.
Any thoughts on how to wire in the light fixture and be able to use both switches would be great. Ideally they would only control the light fixture and I would have constant power to all of the outlets afterward.
Thanks
One of the 2-wire cables ran to switch #2 in the diagram has constant power when disconnected and one cable has no power (I'm guessing that continues on to the closet light switch in the same bay but on the other side of the wall). The other cable is attached to the switch with the red wire and reads no power from any combination of wires.
I have 5 receptacles that are all switched on the bottom outlet and they all have the tab broken on the right side and intact on the left. They all are wired the same and have a red wire connected as shown in the diagram.
Any thoughts on how to wire in the light fixture and be able to use both switches would be great. Ideally they would only control the light fixture and I would have constant power to all of the outlets afterward.
Thanks
#9
I see we have a quandary here. A black wire floating at switch 1. We're missing something here.
At switch 1 is an unconnected black wire. At the other end of that same cable.... the black is connected to the always live terminal of the receptacle. Where does the always live come from ?
With the wiring open/disconnected at switch 2..... are the always live receptacles live ?
At switch 1 is an unconnected black wire. At the other end of that same cable.... the black is connected to the always live terminal of the receptacle. Where does the always live come from ?
With the wiring open/disconnected at switch 2..... are the always live receptacles live ?
Last edited by PJmax; 04-13-17 at 08:39 PM.
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At switch 1 is an unconnected black wire. At the other end of that same cable.... the black is connected to the always live terminal of the receptacle. Where does the always live come from ?
I don't know where that cable goes yet. Any suggestions to find out? It leaves the box in an upward direction but I don't see what would logically be next.
With the wiring open/disconnected at switch 2..... are the always live receptacles live ?
#11
Reconnect as it was and test the receptacles with the red disconnected from the common of switch #1. Also check that red to the whites. I'll admit I'm sure of the value of this test but I'm just curious. If you want just wait for Pete.
I think we can tell you how to connect the new light and maybe even make the receptacles always hot but it is the odd wiring that makes me hesitant to say.
I think we can tell you how to connect the new light and maybe even make the receptacles always hot but it is the odd wiring that makes me hesitant to say.
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Reconnect as it was and test the receptacles with the red disconnected from the common of switch #1. Also check that red to the whites. I'll admit I'm notsure of the value of this test but I'm just curious. If you want just wait for Pete.
The black wire connected to the switch (top right) shows 120v
The other red wire connected to the switch (top left) oddly indicated around 12 (twelve) volts?
With the Red common wire disconnected from the switch, the receptacles have constant power to the top outlets and the bottom outlets have zero power from the switch in any position.
Thanks again for staying with this.
Last edited by ray2047; 04-14-17 at 07:28 AM. Reason: Correct typo in my quote.
#13
connected to the switch (top left) oddly indicated around 12 (twelve) volts?
With the Red common wire disconnected from the switch, the receptacles have constant power to the top outlets and the bottom outlets have zero power from the switch in any position.
Also are the tabs broken on both the silver and brass sides of the receptacles.
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Do you want the light controlled by both switches?
An analog multimeter would probably be 0 but digitals can be influenced by induced voltage.
Also are the tabs broken on bot the silver and brass sides of the receptacles.
#18
Here is a diagram. Try it for the light and report back if half of each receptacle is always hot. They should be at this point. Next step to follow when diagram has been confirmed to work.
#19
I hate to just jump in but in order to have the lights connected at switch 2 and working as a three way system..... you would need to turn switch 1 into a dead end three way switch.
That means you'd need to be able to disconnect the cable I marked as REC at switch 1 and the always live part of the receptacles still works.
Sorry.... yes.... just like you show Ray.
That means you'd need to be able to disconnect the cable I marked as REC at switch 1 and the always live part of the receptacles still works.
Sorry.... yes.... just like you show Ray.
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Ok thank you. The diagram makes sense if I want both switches for my light fixture.
The side of the receptacles with the brass screws are all missing tabs btw.
I'll make the changes and report back. Thank you for all your time
The side of the receptacles with the brass screws are all missing tabs btw.
I'll make the changes and report back. Thank you for all your time
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Try it for the light and report back if half of each receptacle is always hot. They should be at this point. Next step to follow when diagram has been confirmed to work.
The 2-wire cable in the ceiling indicates 120V when I turn on one switch and alternates with the other switch as well. I don't have the light installed yet so I was using a digital multimeter which indicated around 38V when the switches were in the opposite position, I assume this was more induced voltage being read.
I hope this information helps. Thanks
Last edited by kyles609; 04-14-17 at 12:32 PM.
#24
There are multiple way to fully power the receptacles in all the boxes. Remover the red wire to each receptacle and cap. Test. If you still have power replace the receptacles with new receptacles and leave the brass tab in place (red not used). You could also use pigtails to power both sides of the existing receptacles instead of replacing.
Note if these are ungrounded receptacles and you choose to replace you must go back with new ungrounded receptacles (or GFCI protect the circuit). If they are ungrounded and you have trouble finding replacement receptacles pig tailing may be a better option.
Note if these are ungrounded receptacles and you choose to replace you must go back with new ungrounded receptacles (or GFCI protect the circuit). If they are ungrounded and you have trouble finding replacement receptacles pig tailing may be a better option.
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Thank you both for all your input and accurate information. All of the switches, receptacles and cables has proper grounding wires connected. This morning I capped off all of the red wires and tested all of the receptacles and they all had power, minus the bottom outlet of course. I put a pigtail wire on the side with the brass tab pulled and every outlet is now powered completely and the wire at the light fixture is powered on and off from both switches in the room.
This is best case scenario since the cable on switch #1 had to be isolated to make it a dead end switch, but It has power so whatever is on the other end of that must still be working. I have yet to figure out what it is though.
Thank you again, This saved me a lot of money I'm sure.
This is best case scenario since the cable on switch #1 had to be isolated to make it a dead end switch, but It has power so whatever is on the other end of that must still be working. I have yet to figure out what it is though.
Thank you again, This saved me a lot of money I'm sure.
#26
Good job. You stuck with it.
You may never find it. As long as it's capped off there won't be any problems.
Many people do their own wiring without really understanding what they're doing.
I have yet to figure out what it is though.
Many people do their own wiring without really understanding what they're doing.