Fluorescent Light Fixture ballast
#1
11-14-17, 10:52 AM
Fluorescent Light Fixture ballast
Hello,
I have two out of three bulbs in a fluorescent light fixture that do not light when the switch is turned on. With new bulbs installed, there is still no light, so I believe that one of the two ballasts is not working properly. I would like to replace the one ballast that appears to not be functioning properly; however, I have noticed a discrepancy between the ballast and those that are currently on the market. Mine has a green ground wire that emerges from the ballast and terminates affixed to the fixture. The ones that I see offered for sale now do not appear to have this ground wire. Are ballasts now internally grounded?
Thanks.
I have two out of three bulbs in a fluorescent light fixture that do not light when the switch is turned on. With new bulbs installed, there is still no light, so I believe that one of the two ballasts is not working properly. I would like to replace the one ballast that appears to not be functioning properly; however, I have noticed a discrepancy between the ballast and those that are currently on the market. Mine has a green ground wire that emerges from the ballast and terminates affixed to the fixture. The ones that I see offered for sale now do not appear to have this ground wire. Are ballasts now internally grounded?
Thanks.
#2
11-14-17, 11:09 AM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums.
Ballasts get their ground thru the metal case when mounted to a properly grounded fixture.
Consider two things at this point...
Replace all three tubes with the LED type.
Replace those two ballasts with a new three tube ballast for T-8 tubes and install T-8 tubes.
Ballasts get their ground thru the metal case when mounted to a properly grounded fixture.
Consider two things at this point...
Replace all three tubes with the LED type.
Replace those two ballasts with a new three tube ballast for T-8 tubes and install T-8 tubes.
#3
11-14-17, 12:41 PM
Member
Don't waste money on old tech, new LED doesn't need ballast so it's a perfect time to upgrade!
#4
11-14-17, 01:49 PM
Member
Don't waste money on old tech, new LED doesn't need ballast so it's a perfect time to upgrade!
The cost for an LED is less than the cost of new ballast and lamp.
Good deals at BallastSupply.com and 1000bulbs.com.
#5
11-15-17, 11:10 AM
Thank you all for the helpful suggestions.
The bulbs that I had purchased to verify that the ballast was not working properly were actually LEDs, and they were the type that work either with or without a ballast, so I plan to bypass the ballast and replace the fluorescent bulbs with the LEDs.
I drew a sketch of the ballast circuit and have attached it to this message. After of course first turning off power at the breaker box, I believe that it is prudent to disconnect the ballast from the black and white (hot and neutral) lines that emanate from the ceiling. Next, I plan to cut the red and blue lines on the right side of the ballast as close as possible to the ballast. After that I will cut the blue, yellow, and red lines that emerge from the left side of the ballast as close as possible to the ballast. Then I plan to connect the black line that emerges from the ceiling to one of the blue lines that emanate from the right side of lamp 1 and to one of the red lines that emerge from the right side of lamp 2 with a wire nut. Then I plan to connect the white line that emerges from the ceiling to the remaining blue line that emanates from the right side of lamp 1 and to the remaining red line that emerges from the right side of lamp 2 with a wire nut. Does the circuit described here seem correct?
If I am not mistaken, LEDs only require power connected to one side. Should I do something additional to the blue, yellow, and red lines that emerge from the left side of lamps 1 and 2 after they have been cut close to the ballast to ensure that their ends do not touch? Should the black line that connects lamps 1 and 2 be removed? Is there any type of grounding required of lamps 1 and 2 now that the ballast's ground is out of the circuit?
Finally, I plan to keep the one working ballast connected to the working fluorescent bulb, so the one working ballast's hot and neutral lines will also need to be connected into the same wire nuts that I described above.
Thanks
The bulbs that I had purchased to verify that the ballast was not working properly were actually LEDs, and they were the type that work either with or without a ballast, so I plan to bypass the ballast and replace the fluorescent bulbs with the LEDs.
I drew a sketch of the ballast circuit and have attached it to this message. After of course first turning off power at the breaker box, I believe that it is prudent to disconnect the ballast from the black and white (hot and neutral) lines that emanate from the ceiling. Next, I plan to cut the red and blue lines on the right side of the ballast as close as possible to the ballast. After that I will cut the blue, yellow, and red lines that emerge from the left side of the ballast as close as possible to the ballast. Then I plan to connect the black line that emerges from the ceiling to one of the blue lines that emanate from the right side of lamp 1 and to one of the red lines that emerge from the right side of lamp 2 with a wire nut. Then I plan to connect the white line that emerges from the ceiling to the remaining blue line that emanates from the right side of lamp 1 and to the remaining red line that emerges from the right side of lamp 2 with a wire nut. Does the circuit described here seem correct?
If I am not mistaken, LEDs only require power connected to one side. Should I do something additional to the blue, yellow, and red lines that emerge from the left side of lamps 1 and 2 after they have been cut close to the ballast to ensure that their ends do not touch? Should the black line that connects lamps 1 and 2 be removed? Is there any type of grounding required of lamps 1 and 2 now that the ballast's ground is out of the circuit?
Finally, I plan to keep the one working ballast connected to the working fluorescent bulb, so the one working ballast's hot and neutral lines will also need to be connected into the same wire nuts that I described above.
Thanks
