Door Jamb Switches
#1
01-23-19, 09:02 PM
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Door Jamb Switches
Will be retrofitting sliding doors to French doors and would like to install door jamb switches to control two LED ceiling lights. However, as I need a switch in both the left and right door jambs, I’m wondering how to wire so the lights will go on when either or both doors are open. Plan B is a traditional switch next to the casing on the exterior, but the jamb switch will guarantee the lights are actually turned off.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
#2
01-23-19, 10:09 PM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums.
I left you a link to the switch below. This is a UL listed switch and junction box. It only takes one electrical cable (14-2 w/gr) which means each switch must be connected to a common junction box or both go directly to a fixture depending on the fixture.
The switches short when the door is opened. Both switches get wired in parallel so that both switches do the same thing. These door switches are a little tricky to installl.
Leviton door jamb switch
I left you a link to the switch below. This is a UL listed switch and junction box. It only takes one electrical cable (14-2 w/gr) which means each switch must be connected to a common junction box or both go directly to a fixture depending on the fixture.
The switches short when the door is opened. Both switches get wired in parallel so that both switches do the same thing. These door switches are a little tricky to installl.
Leviton door jamb switch
#3
01-24-19, 06:49 PM
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Thank you very much. The doors arrive in 10 days, so I’ll have the opportunity to install these at that time.
#4
01-24-19, 07:08 PM
Group Moderator
Yes.... get them before the doors. You need to cut in the junction boxes and get the wire to them.
#5
01-25-19, 10:01 AM
I'd suggest at least considering some kind of motion sensing switch inside the closet. It'll turn on when sensing motion, and off after a few minutes.
Those jamb switches work fine, but are a pain in the rear to install as the door frame needs to be cut out, and usually some of the framing too underneath. Not a show-stopper, but after installing one, I'll definitely consider alternatives before I install my next.
Those jamb switches work fine, but are a pain in the rear to install as the door frame needs to be cut out, and usually some of the framing too underneath. Not a show-stopper, but after installing one, I'll definitely consider alternatives before I install my next.
#6
01-25-19, 02:40 PM
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Lived with those things years ago and hated them. If the closet door didn't latch,the light in the closet stayed on. Also disconcerting to wake up in the middle of the night because the closet light turned on.
As Zorfdt said, look seriously at motion detection.
As Zorfdt said, look seriously at motion detection.
#7
01-28-19, 09:30 AM
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Thanks for the tips!
Switches and lights arrived yesterday and as I'm not as skilled in electricity as I'd like to be, I'm going to set up / test the wiring before installing so that I understand the logic of what / where needs to be connected.
PJmax, would it be too much to ask for a simply drawing of how this needs to be wired to accommodate two LED ceiling lamps and two switches (one in each of the closet doors)?
I'm happy to send photos when the project's completed.
PJmax, would it be too much to ask for a simply drawing of how this needs to be wired to accommodate two LED ceiling lamps and two switches (one in each of the closet doors)?
I'm happy to send photos when the project's completed.
#8
01-28-19, 10:51 AM
Group Moderator
Diagram is tough as we don't know how your wiring is run. Use #14 NM cable. You need one single cable to each door switch. Don't try to stuff two cables in one switch box.
#9
01-28-19, 05:10 PM
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Wiring diagram
Thank you very much, PJmax. I’ll study to understand the logic and will pay attention to how you’ve laid out black/white connections in this scenario.
#10
01-28-19, 08:17 PM
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Success...somewhat:)
Completed a test setup this evening. Successful in that the breaker didn’t trip and the lights work. Pitfall is that they won’t turn off when the switch button(s) is depressed. Power is via a temporary plug into an extension cord.
ideas are very welcomed.
...Update: isolated the switches. One appeared to not depress completely so I removed it from the loop. It worked with the ‘good’ switch. Tested that same load with the ‘faulty’ switch and it didn’t work correctly. My guess is the faulty switch kept the loop closed so power ran continuously.
thank you for your help!
ideas are very welcomed.
...Update: isolated the switches. One appeared to not depress completely so I removed it from the loop. It worked with the ‘good’ switch. Tested that same load with the ‘faulty’ switch and it didn’t work correctly. My guess is the faulty switch kept the loop closed so power ran continuously.
thank you for your help!
Last edited by klauskokott; 01-28-19 at 08:27 PM. Reason: Update to prior post
