Recessed Lighting
#1
03-04-23, 07:06 PM
Recessed Lighting
Ok here is the scope, I am in the phase of a remodel of my Washroom. New overhead sheetrock & all so adding my "new construction" recessed lighting "can" lighting fixture is what I am using for my application. So brings my question & which is debatable & is the reason I'd like to get some takes on this.
So I am planning to run a new 12/2 or possibly 14/2 from the panel up into the attic, & place it into a junction box and start the downstream there from the split in the junction box straight to the light switch & then on to the ceiling to start the power to the light fixtures. Now, most say from panel to switch & out to the fixtures. But the reason I want the main upstream power source from the panel to a junction box is so I can tie into that same source for the bathroom at a later date.
So thoughts or any new suggestions?
Why am I not using the existing power source for the lighting well the wiring is being redone for the washroom & bathroom is next.
So I am planning to run a new 12/2 or possibly 14/2 from the panel up into the attic, & place it into a junction box and start the downstream there from the split in the junction box straight to the light switch & then on to the ceiling to start the power to the light fixtures. Now, most say from panel to switch & out to the fixtures. But the reason I want the main upstream power source from the panel to a junction box is so I can tie into that same source for the bathroom at a later date.
So thoughts or any new suggestions?
Why am I not using the existing power source for the lighting well the wiring is being redone for the washroom & bathroom is next.
#2
03-05-23, 06:24 AM
Group Moderator
There is nothing wrong with your plan. Make sure that whatever wire size you run should be used for the rest of the circuit. IE: If you run 12/2 to the junction box you will need to use 12/2 for everything else.
When you install the junction box, make sure to install it in a place that will remain accessible and not buried in insulation. Also, use a big enough box for all the wires that will be installed. I would recommend at least a deep 4x4 box.
As another option, you could run a 12/3 or 14/3 cable up to the attic junction box which will give you 2 - 120 volt circuits. This is a multiwire circuit. You just have to make sure to connect the two hots to opposite phases/legs in the panel and connect the two breakers using a handle tie.
When you install the junction box, make sure to install it in a place that will remain accessible and not buried in insulation. Also, use a big enough box for all the wires that will be installed. I would recommend at least a deep 4x4 box.
As another option, you could run a 12/3 or 14/3 cable up to the attic junction box which will give you 2 - 120 volt circuits. This is a multiwire circuit. You just have to make sure to connect the two hots to opposite phases/legs in the panel and connect the two breakers using a handle tie.
#3
03-05-23, 03:35 PM
Yeah, I got a 4x4 deep junction box w/ a face plate. I will be seating it above the insulation for future access to run additional lights. The next thing is going to be wire type I know both will work out fine, 12/2 or 14/2 just as long as I have a 15amp circuit at the start of the upstream at the panel.
So my question is I am going to be running 12 lights total from this power source only. So I am assuming either will work the 14 gauge will be easier to work w/ than the 12 gauge wire, so thoughts should I use 14 or 12? I know not mixing the wires at the junction is not something you wanna do.
So my question is I am going to be running 12 lights total from this power source only. So I am assuming either will work the 14 gauge will be easier to work w/ than the 12 gauge wire, so thoughts should I use 14 or 12? I know not mixing the wires at the junction is not something you wanna do.
#4
03-05-23, 06:11 PM
Group Moderator
Personally, I would use #14. In residential work, I find #14 easier to work with even if I have to run more circuits.
As mentioned, running a 14/3 will give you two 15 amp circuits for now and future use.
As mentioned, running a 14/3 will give you two 15 amp circuits for now and future use.
#5
03-07-23, 03:21 PM
Thanks, Tolyn for all your advice on my ideas. Yeah, a 14 gauge wire is ideal I believe as well for this application easier to string & work w/ at the junction box. Just as a reference the 14/2 wire 12 recessed lightings will not exceed the maximum wattage on the 15amp, which if am not mistaken 15 amps can provide up to 1,800 Watts, & the can lights of the 12 only around 9 Watts each so I should be well within the range needed w/o exceeding.
Again thanks for your advice it has been much appreciated!
Again thanks for your advice it has been much appreciated!
#6
03-09-23, 10:15 AM
You got great info and sound like you're on the right track.
One final comment just to be sure you don't miss. 14ga on a 15A breaker is perfect for lighting. But your bathroom also requires a dedicated 20A circuit on 12ga wire for at least one receptacle. I'm not exactly sure your definition of bathroom vs washroom, but basically if there's a sink, there needs to be a GFI protected receptacle on a 20A circuit at that countertop.
In some cases, that circuit can be shared with other bathrooms, but most will install a separate 20A circuit for each bathroom.
One final comment just to be sure you don't miss. 14ga on a 15A breaker is perfect for lighting. But your bathroom also requires a dedicated 20A circuit on 12ga wire for at least one receptacle. I'm not exactly sure your definition of bathroom vs washroom, but basically if there's a sink, there needs to be a GFI protected receptacle on a 20A circuit at that countertop.
In some cases, that circuit can be shared with other bathrooms, but most will install a separate 20A circuit for each bathroom.
#7
03-10-23, 07:09 PM
Hello, @Zorfdt Thanks for the info, when I mentioned the lights for the washroom the same power source will feed the bathroom lighting as well just a dedicated 15Amp circuit to control just those. I already have 2 dedicated GFCI 20amp 12/2 wiring for outlets in the bathroom.
The mention of 14/2 wiring is just for the overhead lighting only for those two rooms.
The mention of 14/2 wiring is just for the overhead lighting only for those two rooms.
#8
06-01-23, 07:57 AM
Update
Just want to update you on this & get some advice or suggestions, I just recently installed my recessed lighting this morning & I am seeming to have had an issue from the moment I turned the switch on. It seems the lights have a small flicking very faint.
Has anyone had this issue & what were the solutions, I am leaning towards those "quick connects" those may not allow the wire to seat properly.
Any thoughts?
Has anyone had this issue & what were the solutions, I am leaning towards those "quick connects" those may not allow the wire to seat properly.
Any thoughts?
#10
06-01-23, 01:28 PM
No, not currently. I got those GE Revea LED bulbs for recessed can lights, link below to lowes where I purchased these ->
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Halo-New-Co...6-5-in/3241080
Please forgive me if I was unable to link to these can lights - & the switch at the moment is just a standard toggle switch. Will be updated to a smart switch soon.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Halo-New-Co...6-5-in/3241080
Please forgive me if I was unable to link to these can lights - & the switch at the moment is just a standard toggle switch. Will be updated to a smart switch soon.
