Replacing a transom seal??
#1
Replacing a transom seal??
I am looking at a fixer upper boat that needs a new fuel tank and transom seal. How difficult is it to replace these things. Is this boat worth $2000?
https://charlotte.craigslist.org/boa...883079423.html
I have rebuilt\restored an old car but never really worked on boats.
https://charlotte.craigslist.org/boa...883079423.html
I have rebuilt\restored an old car but never really worked on boats.
#3
That would be a risky purchase. 30 years old in boat life is pretty old unless it's been well maintained and that boat doesn't look like it was. I would be very concerned with the condition of the transom itself as well as the area between the floor and hull. Two areas that are hard to see.
#4
Group Moderator
You are buying a trailer... that happens to have a boat sitting on it. In that sale the trailer is the most valuable part.
You have to be careful when someone says "transom seal" to be certain what they are talking about. If it's the gasket between the hull and outdrive it can be easy or a real mother. To install a new one piece gasket requires that the outdrive come off. But there are are a lot of ghetto fixes like cutting the gasket in half so all you have to do is slip it in or just cheat and use silicone. But I suspect there is going to be more than that you'll need to fix and honestly the trandsom seal would be the least of my worries. I'd be more concerned about the engine and outdrive as they have a many seals and gaskets that are a lot harder to replace. But, any problem can be overcome by applying a thick layer of hundred dollar bills.
I would plan on replacing (in addition to the transom seal and fuel tank) any rubber bits (gaskets, seals, O rings) in the engine plumbing and the outdrive. The motor mounts may need replacing... in addition to anything needed to get the engine running. Then also plan on a total gut of the electrical system. After all, boats of that age didn't have USB charging ports for your phone.
Before purchasing it I would do some probing and tapping with a hammer in all critical areas of the hull. Pay special attention to the transom where the outdrive penetrates. Check the stringers and especially where the motor mounts are bolted. In addition to looking for major cracks also keep an eye out for crazing or spider like cracking of the jell coat that could indicate that area has been bumped or flexed.
If you are more accustomed to dealing with cars. Think of it as a barn find. It's been sitting for a long time so anything rubber or plastic is probably shot and precision ground steel parts in the engine probably have corrosion issues. The carburetor may be corroded beyond repair and need replacing. It comes down to what it's worth when your done.
You have to be careful when someone says "transom seal" to be certain what they are talking about. If it's the gasket between the hull and outdrive it can be easy or a real mother. To install a new one piece gasket requires that the outdrive come off. But there are are a lot of ghetto fixes like cutting the gasket in half so all you have to do is slip it in or just cheat and use silicone. But I suspect there is going to be more than that you'll need to fix and honestly the trandsom seal would be the least of my worries. I'd be more concerned about the engine and outdrive as they have a many seals and gaskets that are a lot harder to replace. But, any problem can be overcome by applying a thick layer of hundred dollar bills.
I would plan on replacing (in addition to the transom seal and fuel tank) any rubber bits (gaskets, seals, O rings) in the engine plumbing and the outdrive. The motor mounts may need replacing... in addition to anything needed to get the engine running. Then also plan on a total gut of the electrical system. After all, boats of that age didn't have USB charging ports for your phone.
Before purchasing it I would do some probing and tapping with a hammer in all critical areas of the hull. Pay special attention to the transom where the outdrive penetrates. Check the stringers and especially where the motor mounts are bolted. In addition to looking for major cracks also keep an eye out for crazing or spider like cracking of the jell coat that could indicate that area has been bumped or flexed.
If you are more accustomed to dealing with cars. Think of it as a barn find. It's been sitting for a long time so anything rubber or plastic is probably shot and precision ground steel parts in the engine probably have corrosion issues. The carburetor may be corroded beyond repair and need replacing. It comes down to what it's worth when your done.