For the chrome areas I use simichrome polish, works good. I also use simichrome polish for the non-chrome areas that I can reach. Problem is, there are a number of nooks and crannies that are hard to reach and that's what takes up the bulk of my time. If it were my pickup (that I painted flat black) that would be no problem since I can just shoot the rusted area with the rust reformer spray. This spray only comes in flat black. Is there a version of this that is "colorless" that I can just point and spray? That would save me gobs of time. Assuming not, based on my initial searching, maybe the alternate question is "what's the most efficient method you've found to get rid of rust in a number of hard to reach places (where you wouldn't want flat black spray to end up painting the surrounding parts)?"

https://youtu.be/No1nrybJSSM I removed the air box to see how it would run without them before I ordered pod filters. I figured some issues possibly but not this. I put coffee filters on just to have something. Started up fine then shortly after noticed fuel soaking all four coffee filter covers. Whether this was a dumb idea or not I want to understand how this is working then determine whether or not pod filters are a good idea. I've read of several people with my engine and carbs successfully switching to pods, and I don't even have any to test yet so I suspect this will not be related. So should this happen just by removing the airbox? The vent tubes from the carbs and top of cylinder head that used to got to the air box I left open as I read others just route them to the underside of bike or plug them with a filter, but essentially they're left open as they intended to be at least to the airbox which is open to the atmosphere. Before removing airbox carbs were just fine. I rebuilt them within the past year. Any ideas?