Toro no start
#1
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Toro no start
i have a Toro 20039 Super Recycler with 6.5 engine. It has no spark with kill wire removed. I checked the coil and it reads 3.5 on 20k scale. Coil air gap is set to .010. New plug, still no spark. What am I missing?
#2
Unless the coil is installed upside down, then it sounds like the coil is bad. I don't know what coil you have or what motor, so that's my best guess.
#4
Hi, is the coil grounded out? This link may help.
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...d-testing.html
Geo
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...d-testing.html
Geo
#5
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Toro no start
The coil is not grounded. To avoid further issues, I replaced the coil with a new one (right side up). I tested it with the kill wire connected as well as disconnected. The plug is new. Still no spark. Makes no sense. Anybody have an idea?
#6
Magnets are bright and shiny, and mag coil is spaced correctly, I use a business card which seems to work fine.
Geo
Geo
#8
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Toro no start
magnets are clean. Gap is set as I said before. I always ground the spark tester, bypassing the plug. Because this is so frustrating, I also grounded the plug using the tester.
#9
There is nothing else. I'd put a new plug on it and forget the tester and ground the threaded end of the spark plug and look for spark at the plug. If there is no spark, there is very little that could be at fault. The only things are weak magnetic field (never seen this on the thousands and thousands of engines I've worked on), incorrect air gap, coil installed incorrectly, coil laminations not grounding through the mounting bolts, bad plug, coil windings grounded (kill wire removed eliminates this), and bad coil. Is the spade terminal on your coil on the top side or the underside?
#11
Are you using genuine or aftermarket for the replacement coil? It has to be the coil if all else checks out.
#12
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I wont get into this conversation because I know only the basics & those things have been covered. However, just to throw this out there, if your sure the magneta, coil & spark plug is good, dont over look the spark plug wire, etc. The small basic stuff.
You noted that the spark plug is new, but did you have a reason to change it? Was changing the spark plug part of the elimination process? Or was the new plug put in as part of your "start of season regular maintenance"? If you changed it as part of the elimination process, it could also be a bad plug even though its new. Have you tried a 3rd plug? Again, dont forget about your plug wire.
Good luck...
You noted that the spark plug is new, but did you have a reason to change it? Was changing the spark plug part of the elimination process? Or was the new plug put in as part of your "start of season regular maintenance"? If you changed it as part of the elimination process, it could also be a bad plug even though its new. Have you tried a 3rd plug? Again, dont forget about your plug wire.
Good luck...
#13
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Yep. Like Cheese said - the coil is bad. Forget the impedance checking. It never seems to work. When a manual says try it this way and that way, then "replace with a known good part", that says it all.
#15
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It would only take one good one, obviously. Your best chance of that lies in an OEM/genuine. The coils prior to 1986 were simpler - for the most part just windings with an external set of points with condenser. The newer ones are an ignition module with electrical components which serve the function of the prior points/condenser. That brings the manufacturing level to a higher standard. With globalization parts sourcing brings in a lot of variables in quality.
The ignition system you're working with is very simple, component wise. The module and flywheel magnets produce the spark that ends up at the plug. Magnets seldom show up bad. That leaves the coil/module.
The ignition system you're working with is very simple, component wise. The module and flywheel magnets produce the spark that ends up at the plug. Magnets seldom show up bad. That leaves the coil/module.
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Replace replace replace (not working) or just troubleshoot the darn thing already. Your flywheel is off. Check your alignment and make sure your cotter key is not shaved off or partially shaved off.
#17
??? troubleshooting is what he's done this whole time. There is no "cotter key" on the flywheel and a sheared flywheel key would not cause it not to spark anyway. It helps to know what you're talking about before you criticize someone.