Painting fresh textured stucco

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Old 05-23-16, 04:36 PM
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Painting fresh textured stucco

I need some advice on best way to paint some fresh stucco patches.

Location is Miami Florida so yes very humid and hot this time of the year.

Here are a few pictures of the new stucco with and the vertical line textures. The brown color is the existing 40 year old painted stucco, the gray color is the new stucco.







I have several areas that have been patched with matching patterns.

(1) How long should I wait for the fresh stucco to cure before I should primt and paint over it? 1 week? or 28 days like "standard" concrete?

(2) Due to the texture, it is going to be difficult to cover the grooves even with a thick nap roller. I am thinking I need to roll on liberally, then a brush to make sure I have total coverage?

(3) Would it be better to tint the primer to the finished color to get better results?

(4) There is a lot of hype at local home centers on 1 coat prime and paint products. Thoughts? I am going to do multiple coats, was thinking 1 coat of prime plus 2 coats of paint, but would two coats of prime&paint be worse, same, better?
 
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Old 05-24-16, 03:06 AM
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They used to say you needed to wait 30 days before painting new stucco but back when I worked in fla we never had any issues if we just waited 3 days providing we used decent paint. Latex house paint almost always does better than masonry paint on stucco. Most masonry paints are a lower grade of paint than house [siding] paint.

You can either use a dedicated primer or thin the finish paint 10% and use it as the primer. Tinting the primer is usually best. I like to use a 1.5" nap cover and applied a heavy coat of paint letting it run some, then with the roller low on paint go back and dry roller over that saggy runny coat to dress it up. That usually eliminates the need to use a brush other than for cut in.
 
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Old 07-05-16, 03:13 PM
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marksr, after sitting on this for about a month I am ready to proceed.

I have originally planned on priming only the new stucco areas with matching paint after priming. However I changed my mind and decide to repaint the entire wall a lighter gray color.

So I will be painting over fresh stucco AND existing paint.

Which is better?

(A) Apply a latex primer over the fresh stucco areas, with something like Benjamin Moore Exterior Fresh Start primer, then new paint over the entire area. This means the existing paint will NOT be primed over, only the fresh stucco areas.

(B) Apply a latex primer over the entire wall, over existing paint and fresh stucco, the a new coat of paint over it.

Is it important to use same brand primer and paint, or can I mix and match? Can I use BM primer and Behr paint?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 07-05-16, 06:04 PM
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I like your choice of primer but you have chosen a paint brand I have not nor will ever use based on the number of threads I've seen over the years complaining about it. That said, there are members and mods here who like it.

You do not need to match primer and paint brands and, as long as the existing paint is in good condition, I would only prime the new areas.
 
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Old 07-06-16, 03:30 AM
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The biggest concern with painting over the existing paint is chalk. The fla sun will degrade paint more than anywhere I've worked. Latex paint will not adhere long term to chalk! If it isn't feasible to remove all the chalk - add Flood's EmulsaBond to the first coat of latex [primer or paint]
 
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Old 08-21-16, 01:35 PM
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OK I decided to wait out the 30 day curing for the stucco, and along the way watered the freshly applied stucco walls a few times.

I am ready to do the actual prime and paint now.

Per marksr's suggestions, I will be using 1.5' nap cover on this textured exterior wall, first primer, then paint. I will be adding EmulsaBond to the primer to help stick to sections of existing paint.

QUESTIONS:

(1) When I go have my primer tinted, should I have them match the brown finish paint I have? I think tinting it would make it easier on the finish coat...but it may also make it impossible to tell whether I have already painted it or just primed it? The texture would make it much more labor intensive as I think the nap cover may leave out sections of the grooves I need to run back over with a brush?

(2) How should I estimate how much paint I need? My measurements come to 280SF of exterior wall surface, and using some online paint calculator it says 0.8 gallon. However that's assuming a smooth wall, so the grooves will increase the paint by how much? 100%? 75%?
 
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Old 08-21-16, 01:48 PM
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Masking the windows - after I primed the window sill, head and jamb, do I remove the masking tapes, then apply new tape, then paint first coat, remove tape, apply new tape, paint second coat, remove tape? Or can I leave the tape on until the final coat? If I did that wouldn't the paint "skin over" and when I peel off the tape it would tear some of the paint?
 
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Old 08-22-16, 03:13 AM
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#1 - generally primers don't tint quite the same as finish paint so unless you have them custom tint the primer - it won't be the same exact color. All it needs is to be close enough so the top coat will cover.

#2 - estimating the amount of paint needed can be difficult as surface area, porosity and texture all play a part. Just going by the pics I'd figure 2 gallons. Does your 280 sq ft include the different planes of the grooves?

Tape should always been removed promptly, especially on the exterior! Tape often deteriorates when exposed to the elements and may not remove cleanly and intact [leaving small pieces of tape and adhesive behind] I'm not fond of using tape as it gives a false sense of security - it's easy for paint to seep under the tape.
 
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Old 08-22-16, 04:15 AM
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Thanks marker,

About the paint estimate, I used straight measurements of length by height. So no the extra planes in the grooves were not included. But there are also seven windows that I didn't exclude so I was thinking it would be a wash but not sure.

I never tinted primers before, so do I just give them the finish coat color and they would know to tint it close to but not quite that final color?
 
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Old 08-22-16, 04:20 AM
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I don't know about paint depts but dedicated paint stores know how to tint their primers. SWP has an interior primer that they know to only tint at 1/2 formula because of how it takes the tint. The result is a primer that is just a half shade lighter than the finish paint. The folks at the paint store should know how to tint the primer for your particular job. Also most paints dry darker than they are while wet so even a perfectly matched primer should be easy to tell where you've been while the paint is wet.

The grooves in your stucco pretty much double the sq footage. Assuming there is a lot more wall than shown in the pics it may take more than 2 gallons.
 
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Old 08-23-16, 05:30 AM
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One more question. I am painting the stucco exterior wall. There is a clay tile deck at the bottom. When I did the stucco I laid those red color papers on the deck to prevent spilled stucco from staining the porous clay.

With the painting especially the primer, the roller will hit the deck as I roll to the bottom. If I use the same paper the primer or paint will bleed through right?

If I use wide blue tape I am not sure they will stick to the clay tiles due to its porosity and unevenness.

Or may be a wide 3" strip of duct tape? That may cause sticky residue when I pull it off but I can probably clean that with goof-off type products.

Any thoughts on best, easiest way to mask off at least a few inches of clay tile decking?
 
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Old 08-23-16, 06:08 AM
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I've always just covered it with a drop cloth and then after the rolling was done I'd pull the cloth back a little and finish the bottom with a brush. I'd be leery of taping it off as the gives you false confidence as paint can/will seep under the tape, not to mention any issues with tape adhesive residue sticking to the pavers.
 
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Old 08-23-16, 07:26 AM
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hmm...so you will roll to may be three inches from the bottom and stop and finish with a brush?

I just did a small test area and I have an issue.

The grooves in the textures are kind of acting like "channels". If my brush has a bit too much paint, as I brush extra paint ran down the grooves kind of as I imagine how blood would channel along the fuller of a sword...only much slower. If the brush is too dry I do not get enough coverage into the grooves. I imagine using a roller I would have the same issue if too wet.

I know what you mean by paint bleeding under the tape. If I end up with paint dripping down the grooves I will have paint or primer buildup at the bottom and that would definitely bleed under whatever it is I have there.

I am glad I test painted a bit to see the issue I might run against. These grooves are making everything much harder LOL.
 
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Old 08-23-16, 07:36 AM
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While I seldom dry roll, it might be a good idea on the bottom few feet.
Are the clay tiles mortared in place or loose laid?
 
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Old 08-23-16, 08:15 AM
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the clay tiles are mortared in place.
 
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Old 08-23-16, 08:41 AM
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While it's best not to get any paint on the pavers, keeping a bucket of water and a rag or brush handy will help remove any wet paint. If you miss a spot or two and it dries - denatured alcohol will dissolve dried latex paint.
 
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